Fz6 N S2 2009 Vibrations help

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JM87Sev

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Hello, I know there are many posts on this topic, but excluding the one about repairing the spark plug cables, (I've already done it, I'm about to repeat it again)

The bike has new tires, new chain plate and sprocket, new spark plugs, oil and filter, as well as front suspension

I just want to know if anyone managed to fix the micro vibrations from 5500 rpm to 9000 rpm, they are those vibrations that make your hands fall asleep, especially the right one and the mirrors get blurry, so much so that you can barely see the cars, I just want to know If someone solved it, which is what they did, thanks and regards.
 
The Yamaha engine is very smooth. If you are experiencing vibration it’s an indication that something is wrong. I would have a throttle body sync done and check the compression to make sure that all 4 cylinders are within a few psi of each other.
 
Gary in NJ said:
The Yamaha engine is very smooth. If you are experiencing vibration it’s an indication that something is wrong. I would have a throttle body sync done and check the compression to make sure that all 4 cylinders are within a few psi of each other.
Click to expand...
I don't have a vacuum gauge, I would like to buy one but they are one-time use cars, I would have to take the bike to my trusted mechanic and ask for a price to synchronize the throttle body, it's not supposed to . To touch the body screws of the Acceleration that is regulated at the factory? Could this be the solution to the vibrations?


Thank you
 
Are you sure that the vibration is rpm dependent and not speed dependent? I ask because things like a tire being out of balance, a bad wheel bearing, blown fork seals, a failed shock…can all cause bad vibration - typically above 60 mph.

You mentioned that your tires were recently changed. Did the vibration appear after the tire change?
 
you can always make a dirty throttle body sync tool as per this.

www.hayabusa.org

Homemade manometer FAIL (throttle body sync) | General Bike Related Topics

Pip is 4yrs old this past February and she's runs good for the most part but in the lower RPMs (1-4K) she fluctuates a bit (300-400RPM)on steady throttle. Not bad but it makes things a little hairy on low speed cornering. I put a GIpro ATRE on her thinking that would clear things up but didn't...
www.hayabusa.org www.hayabusa.org
I am pretty sure you adjust everything to the pressure of cyl 1, (the left most looking forward)

make sure you use 2 stroke oil in case you system has a leak
 
Gary in NJ said:
Are you sure that the vibration is rpm dependent and not speed dependent? I ask because things like a tire being out of balance, a bad wheel bearing, blown fork seals, a failed shock…can all cause bad vibration - typically above 60 mph.

You mentioned that your tires were recently changed. Did the vibration appear after the tire change?
Click to expand...
The vibrations between 6000 and 9000 that cloud my mirrors and make my hand fall asleep on the road at 100 or 120 km/h, disappear when the clutch is pressed, so they must come from the engine, the tires are still new but before changing them I the same, now the bike runs smoother with new tires, chain, chainring and sprocket but the vibrations do not disappear
 
Cutting the spark plug cables does not ensure that the vibrations disappear, I can try again to see if there is a result, check the resistance in the spark plug connectors and finally I only have to buy new coil and cables, I have read on this forum that they can use the one from other models like the R6 to see if that solves the vibration problem


I am open to all kinds of ideas or someone who has solved it, it is not pleasant to go at 6000 rpm with tingling hands and blurry mirrors
 
It's complicated, but I ended up replacing the original ignition coils with 4 coils, one over each plug. https://www.600riders.com/threads/vibration-a-cure-for-bad-vibrations-spark-plug-caps.48874/page-10.

I got tired of cleaning up my spark plug caps, so I gave tis a try.

But as @Gary in NJ says, any bad vibrations might mean something is wrong. My vibrations were not as strong as you say your are. They never so bad that they made my hands numb.

Do you have the stock handle bar on the bike? The original bar put your hands in a funny position and could cause your hands to hurt. And if you replaced your handle bar, it the new one steel or aluminum. I have heard stories of problems with light aluminum bars vibrating a lot, causing hand pain.
 
trepetti said:
It's complicated, but I ended up replacing the original ignition coils with 4 coils, one over each plug. https://www.600riders.com/threads/vibration-a-cure-for-bad-vibrations-spark-plug-caps.48874/page-10.

I got tired of cleaning up my spark plug caps, so I gave tis a try.

But as @Gary in NJ says, any bad vibrations might mean something is wrong. My vibrations were not as strong as you say your are. They never so bad that they made my hands numb.

Do you have the stock handle bar on the bike? The original bar put your hands in a funny position and could cause your hands to hurt. And if you replaced your handle bar, it the new one steel or aluminum. I have heard stories of problems with light aluminum bars vibrating a lot, causing hand pain.
Click to expand...
Can you tell me which coils you bought? for me to buy the same ones

The handlebar is the standard one and the position is the original, the vibrations are micro vibrations so to speak, they are like the vibration of a razor but stronger, when I have been at the revolutions that I mentioned 6000 for more than half an hour rpm 7000 rpm 8000 rpm because my right hand starts to sleep because of the vibrations and the vision in the mirrors is totally blurry

As I mentioned before, a week ago the tires were new, the chain, the chainring, the sprocket, the front suspension checked, oil and filter and when the clutch is running the vibrations disappear, I have also retightened the engine screws, I have cleaned the intake (a whole bottle) and I have added a bottle of additive to the fuel tank
 
Last edited:
JM87Sev said:
36.000 km ( 22.000 miles), It's S2 from 2009
Click to expand...
You are due for a valve adjustment. If one of the valves is far off from the others you will have uneven combustion which can lead to vibration. After the valves are adjusted you should sync the throttle bodies. COP (coil over plug) is a good mod...I've done it on other bikes. I believe I have used Suzuki (GSXR) and Honda (CBR) parts in the past.
 
I bought this complete set of coils for €50 https://www.ebay.es/itm/145134430234


when they arrive I will check them with the multimeter, let's see what resistance in ohms it gives me, if the kit is good I will assemble it and test the bike, if it remains the same, I will cut the coils a little. cables, and I do not rule out adjusting the valves, adjusting the throttle body, to see if there is any luck
 
Besides all the above, INVEST in a good synchronizer
I have (and love) the Carbtune:
https://www.amazon.com/CARBTUNE-PRO-4-W-Pouch/dp/B018UTHGPE

The shop will charge you labor about the same as if you bought this
high end tool. It literally pays for itself with one time use...

As for settings at the factory, the engine does need to be sync'ed in ANY EVENT.
The closer you can get them, the smoother the engine.



The factory allows for 10 mm difference between cylinders. After adjusting one valve
I re-synced and you can see got it MUCH closer than 10mm:
 
TownsendsFJR1300 said:
Besides all the above, INVEST in a good synchronizer
I have (and love) the Carbtune:
https://www.amazon.com/CARBTUNE-PRO-4-W-Pouch/dp/B018UTHGPE

The shop will charge you labor about the same as if you bought this
high end tool. It literally pays for itself with one time use...

As for settings at the factory, the engine does need to be sync'ed in ANY EVENT.
The closer you can get them, the smoother the engine.



The factory allows for 10 mm difference between cylinders. After adjusting one valve
I re-synced and you can see got it MUCH closer than 10mm:
Click to expand...

Good contribution, I'll note it for future purchase, thank you.
 
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