~~~ What did you do to your Bike Today Thread??? ~~~

[DeepBarney]

The wiring connector to the R/R actually looks fine, other than the schmoo that leaked into and stained the one connector. Neither the plastic or wires have any signs of being overheated, so I think I'm safe there but a further inspection will be conducted. Can the bike be ran with the stator disconnected from the harness and a fully charged battery? I'd like to test the stator output with the bike running, but with this being my first bike with a "brain" and not carbureted, if I can do that like I have in the past.

Also besides OEM is there any source/brand R/R for these that aren't crap?

 

[Motogiro]

Yes you can run the bike without the stator connected to the bike and I assume this is to do an output AC test. Be careful as there is enough output to hurt you. Also do your low ohm resistance check leg to leg and each leg to chassis ground.

 

[DeepBarney]

Stator checked out alright. Each leg was around 12v at idle and 40v at 5k rpm. None of the legs had continuity to ground.

Further inspection of the harness found no issues. I used brake cleaner and then deoxit on the R/R connectors just for good measure, and to make sure none of the connectors have gotten loose in the hips.

The second and third leg on the R/R are confirmed to be toast, and failed the diode test each direction.

In other news I replaced the cheap shitty generic turn signals that were on the rear of the bike with some affordable not-shitty generic turn signals. And in doing so discovered that the rear turn signals were in fact only supposed to be single filament bulbs/signals unlike the fronts. I figured if fronts are illuminated set up like a DRL the rear would be too. Oh well bit of heat shrink over the connectors for the unused turn signals wires and I'm good. I actually hooked the wire that was listed as being for the directional light as it's brighter than the one listed as the turn indicator.

 

[Motogiro]

Stator checked out alright. Each leg was around 12v at idle and 40v at 5k rpm. None of the legs had continuity to ground.

Further inspection of the harness found no issues. I used brake cleaner and then deoxit on the R/R connectors just for good measure, and to make sure none of the connectors have gotten loose in the hips.

The second and third leg on the R/R are confirmed to be toast, and failed the diode test each direction.

In other news I replaced the cheap shitty generic turn signals that were on the rear of the bike with some affordable not-shitty generic turn signals. And in doing so discovered that the rear turn signals were in fact only supposed to be single filament bulbs/signals unlike the fronts. I figured if fronts are illuminated set up like a DRL the rear would be too. Oh well bit of heat shrink over the connectors for the unused turn signals wires and I'm good. I actually hooked the wire that was listed as being for the directional light as it's brighter than the one listed as the turn indicator.

Here is post with wire color codes for the directionals including the front running lights on the FZ6.

turn signal help!!

Hey guys. I bought a 05 FZ6 used recently and have been working on it. I've been lurking on the forum and it's been a lot of help. So the bike came with a streetfighter conversion and two bros exhaust and the guy installed new turn signals in the front and back. The bike came with the signals...

www.600riders.com

 

[Gary in NJ]

The AC voltage is low. You should see around 22VAC at idle, 70VAC at 5,000 rpm.

Stator coil resistance should be between 0.22 to 0.34 ohms @ room temperature

 

[Motogiro]

The AC voltage is low. You should see around 22VAC at idle, 70VAC at 5,000 rpm.

Stator coil resistance should be between 0.22 to 0.34 ohms @ room temperature

Or the device measurements are faulty?

 

[DeepBarney]

I was able to confirm the correct turn signal wiring routing and colors when I was working on it, but thanks.


Since it's not the original stator and I'm guessing not OEM (the leads coming off the stator are white and I've seen that supposedly the OEM ones are yellow), it may just not put out as much voltage. Or it could be a bad reading, I'll check it with another meter to be sure. Stator coil resistance on each leg was about 0.2-0.3ohms, so within spec. Low voltage supply wouldn't kill the R/R to my knowledge so I'm not overly concerned with it.

 

[Gary in NJ]

It’s a switching r/r. Low voltage from stator will put a load on the r/r 100% of the time. Since the battery never receives enough current the r/r never gets a break, so it doesn’t cool down - and then parts start exposing themselves through the potting material. Get a proper stator. Ricky Stator is a good source.

 

[DeepBarney]

The AC voltage is low. You should see around 22VAC at idle, 70VAC at 5,000 rpm.

Stator coil resistance should be between 0.22 to 0.34 ohms @ room temperature

Just rechecked them and I'm getting between 25 and 26 volts at idle on each leg, and 70 to 80 volts at 5,000 rpm. Maybe I had it set to DC on the multimeter the first go around.

 

[DeepBarney]

Just replaced the failed R/R with a used OEM one from a member here. Failed one (left) was definitely aftermarket.

Bike seems to be charging properly now.

 

[gnyce]

Soo.... with temperatures dropping, figured it was time to install the new wire (to battery) for the replacement controller (Warm n Safe) for my heated vest. Always a PITA to get the plastics out, etc, so "while I'm in there...."
- new wire to battery installed (yes, it has a fuse)
- chked/cleaned air filter
- ordered oil/filter, I'm due before too long
- TB sync... AFTER:
- fixed split in hose on No 4 (for 12 which I got no reading previously - and sidenote, previous owner was fairly anal about zipties everywhere)
- finally, installed the (12 oclock labs) speedo healer that has been sitting on my desk forever...

Have not programmed the healer yet - need a magnifying glass to read the instructions, then need to measure my offset.
Celebrated with a nice evening ride. Was getting chilly, not time for winter gloves yet, but will soon be time for the bark busters.

Question - it's been about 3 years, should I be looking to proactively replace my battery? It's a LiFePO4 - I think the same model @Gary in NJ posted about awhile back. Is 3-5 years still SOP for this kind of battery?

 

[Gary in NJ]

Those LFP batteries are good for well over a 1,000 cycles. As long as it isn’t compromised it could last 10 years.