FZ6 RPM's vs Voltages Video

TownsendsFJR1300

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Due to some of the threads re charging voltages at lower RPM's, I made the below video to clarify.

History on the bike;

(1) BD43, dual headlight mod, PIAA high performance bulbs
(2) Battery is approx 3.5 years old, (ridden 365), and due for replacement.
(3) Idle is intentionally set lower than recommended (so at 1200-1300 RPM your voltages should be slightly higher).
(4) Stebal Air horn installed.
(5) GPS is NOT plugged in while recording.

The video was recorded from a dead cold start and eventually idles down.
(about 85 degrees F in the garage at the time)

The meter was hooked up NOT directly to the battery but thru a Powerlet Outlet on the left side of the bike. Voltages would be higher at the voltage regulator and would also show higher with a newer battery.

Note that the meter takes a couple of seconds for the voltages to change, even with the throttle set steady. Also take note that a decent charging voltage is available just off idle. While 5,000 RPM's is the max charging RPM's, the machine does charge well under 5,000 RPM's..

Towards the end of the video, I activate on the Stebel Air Horn for several seconds. You can see, at least at idle, how much it draws from the system.. (Flickr didn't upload the end of the video, so the Stebel activation is NOT there)

Hope this helps in deciphering charging issues, a visual, on what to expect.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/147134237@N06/29303851750/in/photostream/
 
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Motogiro

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Thank you for the video and voltage measurements.

I didn't see when the horn was activated in the video.

There is no real way to tell what the charging system is producing power wise, without knowing the amount of current being produced is. We would need to see what amperage at the voltages being measured is, to truly know what the charging system health is.

Voltage x Amperage = Power

As I've mentioned in other threads regarding voltage measurements, voltage is a great way to tell, relatively, what is occurring. Our charging systems are a basic symbiotic relationship between 4 major parts. Stator, regulator/rectifier, motorcycle electrical load and battery. The battery becomes part of the electrical load when it requires a charge.

Again, thank you for sharing this test! :)
 
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FinalImpact

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^^ Agreed, thanks for posting.

I do have an observation. A volt meter imposes little to no load so it ** should ** show the same voltage from the battery posts or your outlet unless a connection is compromised along the way. In short; if an extension has a load at the end, expect some voltage drop. If there is no load, it should be very near battery voltage.

FWIW: the FZ's stator output is sensitive around low RPMs. The minor change from
1500 RPM = 14.4V output
1100 RPM = 12.8V and running off the battery

Shown: Battery Voltage being checked from the RR w/the seat off
Red & Black regulator leads to meter:
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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That's correct but as I noted, the current battery is about due for replacement (probably due to sulfation, definitly old age).

Had I taken voltages off the VR, they would have been in the low 14's. Its good to know the system is working correctly but the VR won't start the bike, the battery voltage/amps available will and I wanted to show what voltages the worn battery was capable of holding.

The VR output is higher than what the battery shows because of its age.

Until the battery is toast, the new one will remain in its box unfilled until then. I'll likely take another video and post to show the differences(between old and new batteries)

I was trying to point out that with the myths out there, that the charging system is about nill under 2-3,000 RPM's, clearly is NOT true... Even with a near death battery...
 
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FIZZER6

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I know from experience that a bad battery doesn't necessarily show low voltage. My last battery showed a nice 13.8V reading while charging at idle and 14.2V with the bike off. But as soon as I would turn on the fuel pump the battery voltage would drop to 12.2V and fail to start the bike.
 

FinalImpact

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I know from experience that a bad battery doesn't necessarily show low voltage. My last battery showed a nice 13.8V reading while charging at idle and 14.2V with the bike off. But as soon as I would turn on the fuel pump the battery voltage would drop to 12.2V and fail to start the bike.

^^ Agreed about bad / aged batteries being a wild card. However, 14.2V while off?? Perhaps a typo?

In my post above, battery is 6 years old (orig 08 battery). I've never connected a charger to it in the 4.5 years I've owned it and it sits unattended for 3 ~ 4mo a year in the winter. Its loosing Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) as it ages but otherwise is holding on fairly well.

When I say loosing CCA, I know if the bike failed to start "quickly as it always does", it would promptly fall on its face if it had to crank for say 10, 10 seconds intervals. I'm sure I'd be pushing it!

Scott, would you care to verify the three points? Mine (bold) show no difference while off, at idle, or at 2500 RPM.
Battery posts:
RR Red/Black:

Your Outlet:

I would think that if all connections are good yours should not be 0.5V different with a new or used battery.
 

FIZZER6

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^^ Agreed about bad / aged batteries being a wild card. However, 14.2V while off?? Perhaps a typo?

In my post above, battery is 6 years old (orig 08 battery). I've never connected a charger to it in the 4.5 years I've owned it and it sits unattended for 3 ~ 4mo a year in the winter. Its loosing Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) as it ages but otherwise is holding on fairly well.

You're right. It was more like the same voltage with the bike off as it was while charging (13.8V). Someone mentioned that may be a "surface charge" which is why it would drop as soon as I put a small load on the battery and stay low after that. This was not on my FZ6 but my other bike.

My 2006 battery is also original. I've never had a problem with it at 20K miles. It sat in a cold garage for as long as 2 months at a time in winter for the first 5 years of its life but has been on a tender in a heated basement the past 3 winters.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Scott, would you care to verify the three points? Mine (bold) show no difference while off, at idle, or at 2500 RPM.
Battery posts:
RR Red/Black:

Your Outlet:

I don't have the tank up as its mostly full and with my bar backs, all three bolts have to come off to remove the tank (AKA, PIA)

The BMW (Powerlet outlet) runs up to my power distribution block (fused). The battery is wired directly (well insulated, (no fuse) to the power block. The voltage at the outlet and the block is the same.. (There is NO drop in voltage).

In the first pic, on the block, you can see the right (or back farthest line with the thick 110 volt insulation around it). That goes direct to the battery.

At the VR 13.14
At the Powerlet 13.14
At the power distribution block, 13.14
(just measured them)

Power block (inside the right side fairing);



Powerlet outlet with 14 gauge wire to it and then up to the distribution block(fused near the power block) ;
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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I was able to sneak a probe to the positive terminal of the battery thru that little opening (in front of the tank) but grounded the other probe to the frame. 13.14 volts @ the battery

As noted in previous threads, I can get 14+ volts at the VR, but cannot get above 14 at the battery as it (the battery) is apparently getting the voltage, but won't accept it fully/retain it (thus the lower #'s with it running).


Re battery life, on my old FJR, this bike, Honda Shadows(1100), NOT the kick start KLR's, 3 years is the average life span of a bike battery for me down here. I suspect NOT being in storage and ridden most everyday(365), usually in a hot garage, would be somewhat equivilent to another bike being in storage for 4-5 months.

BTW, at the beginning of the video, when I first crank the bike over, the dash did NOT dim. It should be noted that 90% of the time, it WILL DIM momentarily (NOT loosing the clock) when starting. You saw the 10% that it didn't..You can also see the voltage drop a bit while cranking(more so than a new battery).
 
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Dry Martini

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The charging system is rated at 320 watts. Max output is @ 5000rpm

My bike is an 04 with the original battery. Due to life "stuff", it has not always been ridden in a regular basis. I have only connected the charger when the battery would not start the bike.


This space intentionally left blank.
 

FinalImpact

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This weekend took the bike out after sitting for 3 mo. Before firing it off battery voltage was at 12.85v.
Key on 12.24v
Starting and using Min Max button as we cant see the meter change as it happens so fast, it dipped to 9.44v on one year old Yuasa battery. Crank time in the video was less than 1second even after sitting for 3mo.
Cold idle w dual bulbs on at 14.42 volts @1400 rpm.

Im posting as I went a step further. When idle dropped to 1100 rpm the voltage dropped to 13.2v and continued slowly dropping. I unplugged one lamp and it shot back up to 14.2v... point in stock trim it likely holds its own but that extra headlight can be problem if stuck in traffic idling too long and your idle is not closer to 1300 - 1350....

A fun day on the bike in spite of gravel everywhere and temps in the low 40°F...
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Now your voltages are some what different than mine.

Yours charges higher (I can NEVER hit 14 volts), BUT with dual headlights on, idling @ 1100 RPMs, I stay a bit over 13 volts, no problem (see video).
The highest volts I've ever seen (as I re-call, was 13.95, yours was a bit over that..

**Seems, the VR (even thou their the same), the performance varies between each unit some.**..

I am kinda surprised the voltage dropped to 9 with a one year old battery (especially since it fired up immediately)..


With the cooler weather (low 60's today, my bike is running soooo smooth with the drier, cooler air!!



* Your original battery finally gave up the ghost?
 

FinalImpact

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It was 8 years old and cranking slower plus its off voltage was dropping from a year ago. Cheap insurance!

And yes, agreed, there is variance from bike to bike. During cranking you might visually see it dip into the 10.##'s viewing the display. This meter has min/max recorder function that stores the low and high the display is to slow to show. That said, most users without this option won't know it dipped that low so it's not an apples to apples fare comparison. You know what I mean? Meters are Fluke brand and not noted for error.

In the six years I've had this bike its always fired off in that 1second range... When all things are right, its happy.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Agreed 100%...

When my dash starting dimming while cranking (it ALWAYS STARTED), I ordered a new battery..

I'm NOT push starting a bike, (possibly tipping over) and causing WAY MORE DAMAGE than just getting a new battery (which would be needed anyway....)
 

Motogiro

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After 7 years I've decided it might be a good idea to get a new battery as the voltages are diminishing although it's still providing good current. It's a Chinese made battery that the dealer put in the bike after it sat on the showroom floor for 3 years. It's given me great service! :)
 

FinalImpact

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After 7 years I've decided it might be a good idea to get a new battery as the voltages are diminishing although it's still providing good current. It's a Chinese made battery that the dealer put in the bike after it sat on the showroom floor for 3 years. It's given me great service! :)

And you can use your old battery to power HID lighting when snow and ice takes out your power for 4 hours! lol
attachment.php


Oh how I wish that were in my cage vs my kitchen table! :(


34404.jpg
 
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