Some advice on changing cam chain tensioner

Back again cluttering the forum with my random questions as I work on my bike. I'm pretty sure my cam chain tensioner is shot because the cam chain is very loud, doesn't sound pleasant, and I see it's pretty common. Just a lot of clicky clacking noise coming from that side in general.

What is the easiest way on this bike to ensure the chain doesn't jump when I remove the current one? Do I need to take the timing gear side cover off? And if so, is the gasket reusable by any chance? I'm thinking if I do remove the cover I could zip tie the chain, so I know it didn't move any teeth on the cams when I remove the old one.

Thanks for whatever info you can offer. This is an easy job just figured I would turn to the forum for safety sake, considering the motor is on the line.

I would pull the cover, just extra insurance. You'll probably be able to use that gasket again.

Personally, I'd replace it, I don't like "do-overs". Also, a little RTV around when the electric PU line /rubber grommit goes thru the case.

Stuff a rag at /below the crank to keep the chain from moving, also put tension (bungee maybe) where the tensioner pushes on the chain guide.

Lastly, I'd do the sway while at TDC, just so a cam doesn't want to move (should it have tension from an open valve...)

*If you put a small stool next to where your working, you won't have to un-plug the line, just set the cover adjacent to where your working..

Scott has it right. Get the new timing cover gasket. And make sure you replace the gasket on the tensioner as well. I had been chasing a small oil leak for the last year. Was not a drip, just enough stain the engine and my right boot. It would only leak when the bike was running, so the wind speared the oil stain in such a way that I could not fins the source. Ended up doing some unrelated maintenance that required pulling the tensioner. Replaced the gasket and the leak is gone. Gaskets are cheap when compared to finding leaks and doing a job twice.

Thanks folks. I ordered the side gasket because it was only 9 USD and the tensioner gasket, as well as a new tensioner ($100USD) so that isn't ideal but oh well.

I'm assuming the gasket is the "GASKET, OIL PUMP COVER 1" 5SL-15456-01-00 judging by the parts diagram.

IIRC don't turn the the motor CCW. I think it may even say to do this in a repair/service manual some where but it is not correct. If you need to come back to a spot go the long way around and rotate CW to the spot you want.

Also if you think you jumped a tooth at any time do not crank that motor. Verify!

Motogiro said:

IIRC don't turn the the motor CCW. I think it may even say to do this in a repair/service manual some where but it is not correct. If you need to come back to a spot go the long way around and rotate CW to the spot you want.

Also if you think you jumped a tooth at any time do not crank that motor. Verify!

Click to expand...

Wow, nice little screw up by Yamaha in the service manual... It does say to only turn it CCW. Thanks for informing me of this.

Okay another question, what is the proper technique for actually mounting it? Do you fully retract the rod while mounting, then let it go out after its bolted on so it extends the proper amount? I'm trying to imagine how I will hold the screwdriver on the inside screw (to hold the rod retracted) while also tightening the two bolts at the same time.

CanadaFZ6 said:

Wow, nice little screw up by Yamaha in the service manual... It does say to only turn it CCW. Thanks for informing me of this.

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This procedure was recommended by one of our members who I highly respect as a technician on the FZ6. I had to remove your image because we are not allowed to post copyright material. It's not critical but the word was, with the plugs in it might cause a problem going CCW.

I'm sure Scott or Randy might pop in on your CCT install procedure. I've never done one on the FZ6. @TownsendsFJR1300 , @FinalImpact
I'm working on an intake VVT gear assembly on a Toyota 2 AR FE 2.5 liter right now which is a lot of fun.

Just found this post, I've been reading all the general search results from cam chain tesnioners. Seem my concern is addressed in this, and that a new cct comes with a plastic tab holding the tensioner fully retracted until its bolted on. Makes a lot of sense because otherwise it would be quite awkward trying to hold the arm back and securing the mounts! Some of the description of installation in the post confuses me, but I think I get the idea. (the "freeplay" sentence). This is a great post though.

TownsendsFJR1300 said:

+1 ^^^.

If you get the tensioner in the block and turn the center, main tension screw clockwise, the unit should move closer to the block.

As it does so, by hand, or gently with a socket, tighten both mounting bolts to take up the gap. You do NOT want to tighten beyond the freeplay until its FULLY SEATED...


**BTW, a new unit has a plastic pull tab that sticks out slightly and literally holds the springed extension arm in (until fully installed, then its released and the arm pops out).

If you can duplicate that plastic tab(thin plastic bottle, etc, trimmed way down) and install it in the unit(while on the bench) and fully retracted, the old CCT will drop in without all the fuss..

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Yep, the new tensioner has a tab holding it "closed".

Great catch Cliff, forgot about the manual mistake re cranking direction..


Just an FYI should it extend before installed (say doing a valve adjustment-cam is out).
Put the CCT in the block (as is, extended). Turn the small center screw clockwise while pushing in on the main body(by hand). It will move closer to the block. Hand tighten mounting screws.

Again, turn the small center screw clockwise, push in unit, hand tighten both mounting screws to hold the unit closer... Keep repeating until the tensioner is seated in the block...

Easy pezzy..


That's what I get for not reading the above post fully with the quote below...

Sanity check for anyone, if tightening the two CCT bolts and a gap remains between the CCT and block, do NOT force the CCT down. Those bolts should turn by hand all the way down.

If one continues without the CCT retracted; guide damage, chain stretch, and possible CCT damage may occur.

Yes, there is a Sticky in the tech section... https://www.600riders.com/threads/fsm-typo-read-this-or-engine-damage-may-occur.51785/

I do not consider taking the top cover off necessary - zip ties clamping both chain sides and guides together after the crank was set at the TDC mark should be sufficient. I did it this way for a few times, and never skipped any teeth. On the other hand, skipping some teeth on the timing will lead to much more repair time than the 1-2 extra hours spent taking of the top cover. If you take the safe option and remove the top cover, remember to check that all 3 timing marks are in the right places, then rotate the crank (clockwise, as correctly mentioned before) for 720 degrees and check the position of the marks again.

This is not the easiest job but not the hardest either. As long as you make sure to not force anything, double check the timing marks, the chance of screw ups is small.

Thanks, you guys are legends. I'm not worried about the job its self, just wanted some specialized advice for this bike and knew I would learn some specific tips by asking the vets. I have been building dirtbike engines for a number of years, this was my first timing owning a 4 cylinder bike, and its incredible. I definitely won't be taking the valve cover off, but will take precaution at the crank to ensure the chain doesn't move.

Just to clarify, there is NO reason TO PULL THE VALVE COVER.
Unless the chain jumped (or suspected to have moved), there is no reason to open the top end..

Just the side cover, secure the chain, zip tie or other the chain, and swap out the tensioner

Personally I wouldn't even bother doing that.... Just pull the plugs out and rotate the crank clockwise and then back it off maybe an 1/8 turn.

This will make slack on both sides of the chain hanging from the intake and exhaust cams. The teeth on the crank will be equally engaged over 180°.

Pull the old tensioner and install the new. Rotate crank 720° for the guides and tensioner to settle. If no glitches, put the cap back on the side cover and install the plugs. Should be good to go.

The main thing is to not rotate the crank with the CCT out.

Risk? Maybe if the chain was stretched beyond it's maximum wear limit.

Wait, pull what plugs out?

To be clear I was never intending on taking the valve cover off, that was just brought up so I wasn't ever planning on that. I guess its the ultimate safest method to actually look at your timing, but its overkill. Maybe if this was a 1/1 1965 Formula 1 V12 motor, I would consider it then.

Well the job is done, I have large hands and it was surprisingly very annoying trying to get the back bolt in while keeping the gasket lined up. I'm not even sure it is but it doesn't seem to be leaking, yet.

Overall I probably wasted my time, my old tensioner released fine, the bike is a little quieter but still sounds pretty loud in the ticking department. Not sure what to do next. 32,600km. Maybe check the valves and do the spark plugs.

CanadaFZ6 said:

Well the job is done, I have large hands and it was surprisingly very annoying trying to get the back bolt in while keeping the gasket lined up. I'm not even sure it is but it doesn't seem to be leaking, yet.

Overall I probably wasted my time, my old tensioner released fine, the bike is a little quieter but still sounds pretty loud in the ticking department. Not sure what to do next. 32,600km. Maybe check the valves and do the spark plugs.

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Valves are probably ok but to check them is a bit easier then adjusting them(tensioner out again, cams out, etc)...

If the original spark plugs, your due but of course that won't cause any ticking..


.

TownsendsFJR1300 said:

Valves are probably ok but to check them is a bit easier then adjusting them(tensioner out again, cams out, etc)...

If the original spark plugs, your due but of course that won't cause any ticking..


.

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Thanks for the reply. You're right, I just meant if I'm removing all the stuff to check the valves it will be a good time to easily do the plugs. I'm unsure if they're original. There's a good chance they are unless the PO was really on top of maintenance.

Any other ideas about this? I saw some posts about the clutch causing some similar noises. Have you seen that before? As in plates even breaking sometimes. That is a new one for me, never seen that in any of my other bikes.

Not really sure where to go from here. Maybe its the actual cam chain. Seems unlikely with the mileage and the fact that my old tensioner snaps back out fine.

I doubt your cam chain is an issue.

The bike, being so quiet with the stock exhaust will sometimes sound "ticky" and likely not an issue at all.

If you can post a good video/audio here (walking around the bike, near different parts of the engine), will get you feed back if it's normal or not..

The clutch is pretty much bullet proof unless you REALLY ABUSE it.