Crank but No Start

Flano

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Just bought a 2009 FZ6 from my son that sat for several months. The bike has only 6,370 miles and it was running when it was initially stored in the garage. When I got it home I cleaned the tank and replaced the fuel. The bike would not start; although, it cranked vigorously (battery > 12.6v). This is what I checked and results: after replacing blown IGN fuse, the voltage from Starter relay to IGN fuse--12v; voltage from fuse to Cut-Off relay (Red wire)--12v; voltage from Red wire at Cut-Off relay to Red/Blue at Cut-Off relay--12v; voltage from Red/Blue at Cut-Off to Pump Red/Blue--0v; voltage from relay Red/Blue and ground with ignition on--0v. Additionally, there is continuity between the Red/Blue at the relay and the Red/Blue at the pump. During the testing process, the EFI fuse blew; I replaced the Cut-Off relay. Lastly, I can hear the starter relay "click" when starter engages, but I can't hear or feel the fuel pump running. The bike is showing no codes.

I want to conclude the pump could be operational and I have a relay issue, but I'm still not sure. The tank was corroded and may have caused some issues with the pump. I have not taken the pump out of the tank yet, but that may be on my list soon. Any thoughts on where to go from here? I saw a reference to the fuel pump/injector relay being open with no volts at the Red/Blue wire in the Cut-Off relay, but I don't know how to find it or check it.

Sorry to start another "Won't Start" thread, but I'm about 'out of Schlitz' and I'd like to get the bike running before winter in Virginia.

Tnx, Bob
 

Motogiro

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If you've got the starter working, check for spark. If you've got spark check for positive 12vdc (red with blue tracer) at the fuel pump when you turn the key on. This is the same for the fuel injectors.
If you have starter and you don't have +12 vdc at the red with blue tracer wire, make sure you have +12 vdc at the red wire going to the starter interrupt-cut off relay assembly.
 
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Flano

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Sorry I didn't mention it, but I have spark, at least at cylinder 4. There is no 12v at the pump from the red/blue wire coming from the cut-out relay assembly. There is 12v at the red wire in the cut-out relay assembly. The 12v is coming from the battery all the way to the cut-out relay assembly via the red wire. But from there it is not getting to the fuel pump. There is continuity (0 ohms) in the red/blue wire at the assembly and the connector at the pump, but not 12vdc. I'm not really sure the cut-out relay assembly does, but it seems to it should deliver 12v to the appropriate switches and relays in the bike...one of which is the fuel pump via the red/blue wire. I installed a new relay assembly (5VK-81950-31-00) so assume it is working properly. Could there be an issue with the wire loom feeding the assembly? It looks like there is a small panel on the 16 pin loom block that opens but I didn't want to force it. I checked the diodes in the original relay assembly and found some errors in continuity that caused me to install a new relay assembly. I will tell you I can read the Haynes manual and pretty much follow the directions, but I'm not sure I'm seeing the 'Big' picture: I appreciate your help.
Bob
 
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Motogiro

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It looks like you have a good understanding of the circuit. There are 2 relays in that assembly and if the starter is enabled the fuel injection relay should also have +12 vdc to it's coil. The negative side of the coil is activated via the ECU which pulls the negative side of the coil to ground. If the ECU doesn't like something it can stop fuel. That wire color code is blue with a yellow tracer. If you ground that wire the fuel injection and fuel pump should become active. Don't just ground that wire while it is still connected to the ECU. The ECU may not just be an open but it may present positive voltage to the ground side of the circuit which would keep the relay de energized. Disconnect that wire so that no voltage potential is available from the ECU while it may hold that side of the relay in a possible high state. If not disconnected it could damage the ECU. Providing a ground path for that pin from the (Starter interrupt-Cut off relay assembly) should allow the pump to become active. If not go back to the FI fuse to see if it has blown. If for some reason the fuel pump is seized or dead heading and current goes high, it may be blowing the fuse and possibly damaging the fuel injection relay contacts.
You may want to disconnect the starter interrupt relay assembly and see that that blue with yellow tracer wire has continuity to the ECU.
 

Motogiro

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If you find the starter interrupt-cut off relay will pass current and the pump runs, Check that the lean angle sensor is not defective. If the ECU is told the bike is on its side the ECU would lift the ground on the FI relay.
On that same circuit as the lean angle sensor are the air pressure sensor and the temperature sensor. These would be suspect in the ECU shutting down the fuel.
 
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Flano

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Yes, in a way. I finally got 12v to the pump and I think I heard it trying to run; although, it seemed very sluggish. It now seems that, once again, the most expensive unit in the troubleshooting process is the culprit. I'll pull the pump out and take a look. Thanks very much for your "unwavering" support working through all my issues. I'll let you know how the story ends.
 

Ohendo

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Yes, in a way. I finally got 12v to the pump and I think I heard it trying to run; although, it seemed very sluggish. It now seems that, once again, the most expensive unit in the troubleshooting process is the culprit. I'll pull the pump out and take a look. Thanks very much for your "unwavering" support working through all my issues. I'll let you know how the story ends.

If you decide you need to replace the fuel pump, OEM is probably best…but there have been some reports in this forum of success with the aftermarket pump at the link below. Price is crazy low.

 

Motogiro

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How's it going?
Be safe. Ground the tank to a water pipe or electrical house ground. Get plenty of ventilation. Wear protective gloves and eyewear.
 

Flano

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Good advice. We just moved to Virginia and I'm now working on my "honey-do" list., none of which begin with the letter "m." I'll keep you apprised when I get back to work on the FZ.

Bob
 

Flano

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After several hours of labor replacing the fuel pump and refurbishing the gas tank in my FZ6, I hit the starter and it fired right up!! Thanks to Motogiro and Ohendo for helping me through the troubleshooting process. Here's a quick synopsis of what transpired:

After sitting for several months in my son's garage, I purchase the 2009 FZ6. When I tried to start it-it cranked but wouldn't start. It didn't sound like the fuel pump was working, but I didn't know if it was an electrical or mechanical (fuel pump) issue. I knew the tank was rusty and started the project by cleaning and lining the tank with the POR-15 three step process: clean, etch, liner ($57). This was a tedious process, but I was quite pleased with the results (See before/after pics of the tank). I inspected and cleaned the wiring from battery to pump and found a fault in the Cut-Off relay and replaced it along with the IGN fuse. I was now getting 12vdc to pump, but it still wasn't working. I realized I now needed a pump (See original pump and filter) and decided to purchase the Quantum QFS for about $80 mentioned by Ohendo. It's a plug & play replacement that was easy to install. After mounting the tank back on the bike I found the key did not work properly in the gas cap; it was always "sticky" but now refused to unlock the cap. After disassembly and cleaning, it still did not function properly, so I replaced it with a keyless cap for $27 (See pic). Yesterday I put it all back together and fired it up: It was a good sound! Thanks again to Motogiro for working me through the electrical troubleshooting process and Ohendo for the tip on the pump replacement.24123C77-92E8-4B16-B819-3822929D9F32.jpeg0C5B05CE-003F-45BA-B7A8-F1FDA74B064F.jpeg8416E4FB-7939-4B0E-B10E-A3E99A79D33A.jpeg28D57105-3112-4935-BA5A-A25BEA0CEB05.jpeg
 

Motogiro

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Whoa! That was rusty! You stuck with it and got it solved! Thank you Ohendo for the pump link.
I'm also going to check out the POR 15 for possible future use.
 

Flano

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This is what I used...F9DD8C29-CA5E-4749-8F3B-FDD8503F25BD.png I added several large ferrous nuts and bolts to the tank to help loosen the rust. I also used an appropriate size plumber's test plug to close the tank when the pump was removed.
Bob
 
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