Search results

It’s a sport touring tire. They have good grip, feedback and will last a long time. All tires are a compromise, you trade grip for wear. If the priority is on long life, that’s a good choice.

I’d would use the recommended sizes and profiles. For a daily rider that is ridden in all weather, you can not beat the Michelin Pilot Road 5 series.

Sensors fail. You can confirm that it has failed by checking the resistance @ 248-372 Ω at room temp. Put the positive (+) tester probe on the GRAY wire and the negative (-) probe on the black wire. If you replace the CPS, be sure to use Titebond/Hondabond/Yamahabond where the harness leaves...

If your axle is near the middle of the adjustment range you will have enough adjustment to accommodate either of those situations. Going -1 on the front sends the axle back about 1/4-in and going +2 on the rear sends the axle forward about 3/8-in. If your axle is already biased towards the rear...

OK...I broke out my calculator on this run-on question. Changing the rear sprocket from a 46 to a 47 tooth sprocket changes the FDR from 6.0876 to 6.2199; a change of -2%. Here is the big one - going from the stock 180/55 rear to the 170/70 rear changes the speedo error by an additional 6% -...

^^^ I agree, I spent so much time trying to understand the sentence structure that I gave up thinking about the problem. Flaming exhaust...CO2 rifles...Two Bros exhaust...what does any of this have to do with the gear ratio of the final drive?

Me too...don't over think this.

The indicator can not be recalibrated. I can not think of a situation that would cause the indiactor to read high (for both speed and rpm), other than a failed indicator.

This sounds more like clutch technique than throttle technique.

The heat from welding a nut on should also break the mechanical bond of the galvanic corrosion.

I’m sure it will be fine. The rear tire will be a little pinched on the rim and the front will be a little flat/stretched. That will have a slight effect on rake and trail (raising the rear and lowering the front). Also the front tire losing its curved profile will need a bit more effort to come...

[opening a can of worms....] I wouldn't use it. K&N filters don't increase HP nor do they filter small particulates well. It's a lose-lose proposition. It's not worth the scoring in the cylinder walls. Nothing beats a CLEAN paper filter.

From my experience, K&N filters come pre-oiled. The cotton distributes the oil evenly inside the mesh. "Front" is usually marked to indicate airflow, with Front towards the throttle bodies.

It's called "potting" compound, it's basically an epoxy resin. If my memory is correct, the back-side of the PCB assembly is not constrained by potting. If you need to remove/replace an LED, you will have to physically remove the board assembly from the housing face, and then CAREFULLY chip away...

If you are below 1,000’ asl, I wouldn’t bother - unless you have some throttle response issues. If you normally operate at high altitude I think an adjustment of the a:f ratio is in order, whether you have a slip on or not.

I'm not aware of a video, but I know some years ago a member photographed the repair of the instrument cluster...or maybe it was the ECU...but your best bet is to search. I have had mine apart once before. The PCB assembly is easily removed from the housing and from there its a straight inspection.

It's possible that there is corrosion on the printed circuit board. I would disassemble the cluster and clean the PCB with contact cleaner. I would also be on the lookout for a lose solder joint.

I was just dropping by to say this.

You snapped two…well done. When you remove the pipes there should be enough bolt protruding to grab with a GOOD vice grip. As mentioned above use a penetrant 24 hours in advance of removal.

There is no required maintenance at that mileage interval. Replace things that worn or broken, and enjoy the bike until you reach 40,000km, that is when the valves are due for an adjustment.