1987 FZ600

Gribbleman

New Member
Hey all - I just picked up a super nice (looking) FZ600 but it needs some tuning help. The guy before me put a Dynojet kit in it and I am guessing he got it wrong and it needs a little help. It has pods but a stock header and slip on Yoshi.

It is currently located in Las Vegas Nevada so maybe a couple thousand feet of elevation.

Any carb experts out there that can suggest a starting point with the jetting? It barfs, pops, backfires on idle. The RPM's will run up a little then back down even with choke off and warm.

Thanks for any assist.
Tom
 

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Motogiro

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Welcome to this great forum!
That bike looks really great! I would start with the basics like a compression test and then valve lash check. From there go to the carbs and give them a good cleaning. If they've been rejetted and set up with that exhaust they might be fine but I would give that system a good cleaning because you may have varnish in them. Check the rubber seals from carbs to intake. They may have cracking and hence loss. Then throttle body adjustment so they're all happy together.
I'm sure some of our gang with more experience will chime in. :)
 
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gnyce

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I have an FZR600 project (1990) that I've been working on for a bit, and own an '87 FZR1000 - so clearly I'm taken by the look of this style. That looks to be in great shape! I am hardly an expert on carbs - I'd follow Cliff's advice way before mine - but if the previous owner bought a Dynojet kit, I'd have to imagine it is probably sized OK, and is just in need of adjustments. I've no idea if the FZ600 uses the same carb or not, but this is a summary from some of the (now mostly idle) FZROnline forums - http://www.saltmine.org.uk/fzr/fzr-carb-settings.html - and if you search google for "site:factory pro carb tuning" you can find their guide as well (they request that I not link directly to it). Personally, I'd clean the carb well , make sure the float needles are in good shape, verify your float height... and then work with the fuel-air mixture screws. I've done one pass on the FZR600 - just got it on the road a few wks ago - and I'll need to take some add'l passes. It runs decent, pulls well, but 1) slight hesitation on throttle blip from idle, and 3) jerky right at 3k RPM.
 

Gribbleman

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Thanks for the reply - you hit my initial thoughts - verify carb cleanliness, fuel grade / condition (dump old, add fresh new non-ethanol) and check what exactly was done to the carbs.. The instructions say that a hole must be drilled larger (I believe) in the bottom of the slides, and the cap drilled out away from the fuel / air screws. So that's where I go first - did he follow all the instructions to the letter? Then go from there with making sure the mixture screws are adjusted correctly, synced correctly, appropriate needles and clips in the right places. One thing I saw right away is that the kit came with new needles, but it looks like they weren't used. Aside from that, the rear brake has shite for brake fluid and fully bottoms out with no effect on the rear end. I am not riding it at this point - just want to make sure I have it as close as possible to correct jetting before I get too excited. Yes it's in great shape with only a few bits needing attention. I hope to be enjoying it soon.
 

Gary in NJ

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I’m thinking “jerky at 3,000 rpm” is an indication of a lean needle or the wrong profile needle. Remove the caps from the carbs and lower the clip one position (also confirm that they are on the same clip position for each needle. If that solves it you’re done. If not, you’ll have to get the number from the needle and order a taper with a thinner mid-tip.
 

gnyce

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Could also be unbalanced carbs, TPS (if it has one) or ignition.
I did balance them with a vacuum gauge. Didn't spend hours on it, but it was pretty close. I didn't run it much before the engine/trans rebuild, but I seem to recall it did the same behavior. I only cleaned carb, did not rebuild - but DID replace the emulsion tubes, and adjusted float height. I think I'm still a little low (consensus is between 22-26mm). Gary could be right re: needle clip. I have a few other issues to address before I open that back up (voltage regulator, leaking rear caliper, bad gasket cover seal).
 

Peobrien

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I can be no help.
However I’m a newbie and have a 1987 FZ600.
so seeing as there seems to be some experience with this older here, I’d like to ask a few questions of my own, as you can see, I’ve ventured into painting the tank, I pulled most dents out & I’m sanding now with 600 grit, very smooth, but I know your suppose to rough it up before painting, what grit should I use for this?

thanks guys
 

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trepetti

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I can be no help.
However I’m a newbie and have a 1987 FZ600.
so seeing as there seems to be some experience with this older here, I’d like to ask a few questions of my own, as you can see, I’ve ventured into painting the tank, I pulled most dents out & I’m sanding now with 600 grit, very smooth, but I know your suppose to rough it up before painting, what grit should I use for this?

thanks guys
I wasn't the one who painted the tank. A friend of mine who owned a body shop a long time ago did.

I am certain that he used 400 before the primer went on, and from then on it was wet 800 in between ...
 

Motogiro

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Bare metal should be prepared with a product like Prep Sol (If they still make it) before painting. The moment metal is exposed is when it's going to rust, even if not visible. I use a product call Ospho that converts rust to a non ferrous material. Paints out of a rattle can are not recommended unless they are specifically designed for this type of work.

 
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