2006 FZ6, error 46

[kamishx]

I'm having an intermittent electrical problem with my 2006 fz6. Just for more info, at the end of last years' riding season, I replaced the starter relay and starter motor brushes because there was some cranking problems. It seemed to fix all the cranking problems.

Cut to last week, after de-winterizing, I took the bike out on the highway. At 70mph, the check engine came on and it started to run incredibly rough. I pulled to the shoulder and hit the kill switch. With the key still on, all electrical power disappeared as soon as I hit the kill switch. Headlight turned off, all screen display turned off, etc.

I ended up lifting the gas tank up to access the battery, and everything seemed tight. After about 10 minutes of letting it sit there while googling on my phone, power to display/headlight came back, showing error 46. This is supposedly "Power supply to FI system relay is not normal." I was able to clear the code and ride home fine.

The battery is less than a year old, was on a trickle charger all winter, all contacts clean and tight. I checked the rectifier and stator values with my multimeter and things seem okay with those.

The next day, I went out for another ride and everything went perfectly. Weird. Then, this morning I started the bike to head to work. 2-3 minutes later I went out to the garage to the bike idling rough and check engine on. I hit the kill switch again (key still on) and all electrical went out again. 10 minutes later, power came back to display after I moved bike from kickstand to center stand. Coincidence?

I tried moving by bars, moving the bike, etc, to get the power to cut out, with no luck. So I don't think it's a rogue loose wire.

Anyways, sorry for the essay. Any input on what it could be? An often response I've read online is that it's a charging system problem. I don't think a bad rectifier/stator would cause the random loss of all electrical for 10 minutes. I'm leaning towards defective battery or starting relay somehow? I'm at a loss. Voltage values when off/while cranking/running@5k seem correct.

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Motogiro]

:welcome: to the forum!

Lift the tank. right where the starter relay is there is a 30 amp main fuse check the fuse and associated wiring. that is where the main power from the battery goes to all if the other bike circuits. The fact that the bike is sputtering and then dying without even headlights indicates a total voltage loss. If you use the kill switch the headlamps would remain on until you turn the key to the off position so it is either power loss through the ignition switch or harness in that area or the main supply from the battery. There is a possibility the battery terminal is defective internally inside the battery but pretty rare. Check main fuse area first as well as connectors at the battery.

 

[kamishx]

Thanks for the reply!

I put the old starter relay back in (I only replaced it because of cranking problems, but that turned out to be the starter motor brushes). It was an eBay replacement, so I don't have a lot of faith in its quality. I've traced all the wiring in/out of the relay/ignition/battery leads, etc, and everything looks good. Ordered a new rectifier just in case, although the charging system seems to be working and I don't believe a faulty rectifier would cause complete electrical loss after shutdown. It's tricky because it happens sporadically. Guess I'll give this a whirl and hope I don't get stranded

 

[Motogiro]

Thanks for the reply!

I put the old starter relay back in (I only replaced it because of cranking problems, but that turned out to be the starter motor brushes). It was an eBay replacement, so I don't have a lot of faith in its quality. I've traced all the wiring in/out of the relay/ignition/battery leads, etc, and everything looks good. Ordered a new rectifier just in case, although the charging system seems to be working and I don't believe a faulty rectifier would cause complete electrical loss after shutdown. It's tricky because it happens sporadically. Guess I'll give this a whirl and hope I don't get stranded

If this has happened multiple times and it was a bad regulator/rectifier the battery would not regain it's charge unless recharged from an external source. The R/R is a shunt type regulator and if it were shunting the full current of the battery there would be other damage to the bike wiring/components. The voltage source to the bike is not through the R/R. The charging system failure would not exibit the type of failure you've described.

An intermittent voltage supply from the battery to other electrical paths will be source of the problem. Again, battery terminals, main fuse and fuse assembly, ignition switch, wiring harness @ steering area. If you worked on the starter relay, it is located at the top of the battery where there is a main supply fuse assembly. There are also wiring harness plugs that could be suspect. Start at the battery and work your way out.
I don't have my FZ6 any more so I don't have access to a visual on that assembly on top of the battery but I remember that main 30 amp fuse assembly.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As Cliff noted about the ignition switch, you may buy a used OEM switch on E-Bay (or here) and simply plug it in for testing purposes.

I wouldn't even "install" it in the top triple but simply plug it in under the battery (I believe it plugs in that area).

With what you've done, you may try tugging gently wires around the ignition switch and right near the switch.

If your very mechanically inclined, that switch can come apart, contacts and soldier joints checked.


Some of the older FJR's had the loom zip tied too tight from the factory and had the same symptoms as yours (re-call as well).

If a PO has "neatened" things up, it's very possible a wire was compromised..

 

[kamishx]

Thank you both for the help. I have quite a few things to go over. I will report back when the problem is solved!

 

[indemir]

I have exact same issue with my 2009 FZ6. I changed stator with OEM part and all multimeter values are OK with Stator now. Also checked regulator, it looks OK as well belongs to multimeter values. Put a brand new battery. All fuses checked and they're OK(including the one top of battery 30A). But still it's not charging while engine is running. While engine running, battery shows around 12V and getting low in progress of time. Only other option is changing whole wire harness but before doing that I would like to ensure this will solve my issue? So frustrated about it.

 

[Motogiro]

Welcome to this great forum.
The resistance at the each leg of the stator should read .22 to .34 ohm leg to leg. There should be no continuity from any leg of the stator to engine ground. If you measure your battery voltage at the regulator plug and it is present and your plug does not have bad pins there's a high probability your regulator is bad. There are 5 pins at the Regulator/Rectifier plug 3 for the stator, one positive (red) and one negative (black).

 

[indemir]

Yes, I checked regulator as well. All values are in spec for stator and regulator. So that I confused

 

[Motogiro]

Yes, I checked regulator as well. All values are in spec for stator and regulator. So that I confused

If you measure your battery voltage at the regulator plug and it is present, your plug does not have bad pins, and the stator is good there's a high probability your regulator is bad. There are 5 pins at the Regulator/Rectifier plug 3 for the stator, one positive (red) and one negative (black).
If you're seeing the battery voltage, between the red and black wires at the plug the harness wiring is likely good.
The other scenario would be if the magnets on the flywheel have flown off. The stator would then not generate an output.
Unplug the R/R and measure the alternating current voltage from each leg of the stator to see there is an active output. depending on the rpm you will see varying AC voltage some where near 90 VAC.
If these tests prove the wiring is okay and you're getting output from the stator it is probable the regulator/rectifier is shunting voltage or not passing rectified DC current. If the bike is starting the 30 amp main fuse is good. Still check the connections at the battery and main fuse.
Do these tests and get back to us.

 

[Gary in NJ]

To add to the above, the AC voltage on all three legs (each yellow wire) should be about the same. If one is more than 10% lower than the other two, there is a problem.

 

[indemir]

I checked stator voltages, they're around 70V at 5000 rpm each. All fuses (including 30A main fuse on top of battery) are OK. Regulator itself is also ok but checking the regulator plug pins may good idea. Too busy this week but I can do it Saturday. Thank you for your help guys. Will be back with updates. Hope I can save my bike.

 

[indemir]

Hello guys, I've executed all tests and recorded it. So basically all fuses are ok, stator and regulator working properly. Wiring looks fine. BUT battery is not charging while engine running :/ Here are the videos below, can you guys please check? There are 6 videos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUdgVmSg9XI

 

[turbodan]

I'm not so sure about the regulator. It's not always possible to definitively test solid state electronics beyond a short or open circuit.

You have replaced the stator with no change, your measurements indicate the stator is producing voltage. Did you test the regulator output at the regulator? Perhaps pull the connector off just enough to get a probe on the pins without fully disconnecting the harness from the regulator.

 

[indemir]

Actually I left the bike at my friends garage. Can do it next week but let me order new regulator and try if you think regulator is the issue mostly. Do you know which brand is good for regulators. Amazon suggesting MZS brand regulator or I can check ebay for used OEM? Which one is better?

 

[turbodan]

I would go used yamaha before any aftermarket.

 

[Gary in NJ]

I like your approach. A few things about your tests. I see you checked the AC output from the stator, but the video only shows the results of a single leg. What about the other two?

Regarding the regulator/rectifier, the diode test only tests the rectifier, it doesn’t give any information on the regulator. It is possible to have AC to DC rectification but still no regulation.

If all three legs of the stator output similar voltage and none are shorted to ground, then I’d suspect the r/r.

Ricky Stators sells mosfet r/r that are accurate and can be used with Lithium batteries.

 

[indemir]

All stator legs giving same results. (Stator is already brand new OEM). Checked Ricky stators web site but couldn't find fitting one. @turbodan I'm not sure about used OEM. Because if I get a new one from Amazon I can return it in 30 days. But if you highly recommend used OEM for some reason, I can get used.

 

[trepetti]

You have to test the 6 diodes in the rectifier. It's easy, 4 steps. Disconnect the connector from the RR. All tests are done on the pins of the RR. Put your multimeter in diode test mode and:
1 - put the positive probe of the meter to the positive pin on the RR. With the negative probe, touch each of the 3 stator pins on the RR. All 3 should show an open circuit
2 - put the positive probe of the meter on the negative pin on the RR. Touch the positive probe to the 3 stator pins on the RR. All 3 should show about .5 volts
3 - put the negative probe of the meter on the negative pin on the RR. Touch the positive probe to the 3 stator pins. All 3 should show an open circuit
4 - put the negative probe of the meter on the positive pin of the RR. With the positive probe, touch each of the 3 stator pins on the RR. All 3 should show about .5 volts

AS mentioned above, this tests only the rectifier, not the regulator. But if the fuses, stator and rectifier all test good, I am betting the regulator is bad.

Another good source of information and parts is www.roadstercycle.com. You can call Jack and he will be happy to answer questions and help out. He also sells REAL Shindengen RR's.

FYI, I spent this morning troubleshooting the same charging issue. Testing revealed a shorted stator.

 

[Gary in NJ]

You can also call Rickys. All of the r/r’s are basically the same, it’s just the connectors that change.