2007 FZ6 ECU help

Dale Scroggs

New Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2022
Messages
13
Reaction score
5
Points
3
Location
North Carolina
Visit site
A friend of mine has a 2007 FZ6 that hasn't cranked in about 10 years and its a really nice bike very low miles and it just hasn't been fooled with really since the day it quit and I don't really know the history behind the day it quit. Ok we've decided to try and fix it and I've never really ever even looked at an FZ6 but have a little know how for trouble shooting stuff and electronic background and with that said first thing to mention is the bike turns over nicely just no crank and on the display or odometer or whatever its called I read an error code of 43 so I got to reading about codes and what they meant and how to erase the ECU memory and it did clear out the 43 error code so today we tried again to crank it and no go and instantly got the same error code of 43.
Yesterday we installed new sparkplugs and I noticed all 4 of the old plugs looked black and sooty looking not wet at all. Done a little reading and watching Youtube and am I correct in saying Code 43 means the bike isn't communicating with the ECU to tell the bike to fire or crank? Checked simple stuff like kick stand sensor connection and also the crank sensor and it was 200+ ohms can't remember the exact number but good I think. lol does 43 mean the bike is braindead? Thanks in advance to replies
 

Motogiro

Vrrroooooom!
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Member
Site Supporter
Joined
May 8, 2008
Messages
14,968
Reaction score
1,138
Points
113
Location
San Diego, Ca.
Visit site
Welcome to our great forum Dale!
Dale Scroggs.....Dale Scroggs..... Are you sure yer not a famous country music celebrity?

Forgive me for teasing.
That code is, I believe a fuel injection/fuel pump not normal operation. When you turn the key on do you hear the fuel pump run for a second? If not check fuses. If fuses are good you may have an open wire or a failed relay in the (Starter interrupt cut off relay assembly) Another thing you might check is the wiring. 10 years might have allowed at least 1 rodent to gnaw at a wire..
Let us know if you hear that fuel pump prime. Again welcome!

Edit: You also may have a varnish problem from old fuel etc. Rust in the tank? (not related to that code)
 
Last edited:

Motogiro

Vrrroooooom!
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Member
Site Supporter
Joined
May 8, 2008
Messages
14,968
Reaction score
1,138
Points
113
Location
San Diego, Ca.
Visit site
Thanks for the reply I don't remember hearing the fuel pump start at all so I'll see if I can find the fuses and check that and go from there.
The red with a blue tracer wire at the fuel pump should show 12 vdc. There is a possibility the pump is seized and high current blew the fuse. If you find the blown fuse, replace it and if it blows again, there is a good chance the fuel pump is seized.
Good hunting!
 
Last edited:

Dale Scroggs

New Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2022
Messages
13
Reaction score
5
Points
3
Location
North Carolina
Visit site
The red with a blue tracer wire at the fuel pump should show 12 vdc. There is a possibility the pump is seized and high current blew the fuse. If you find the blown fuse, replace it and if it blows again, there is a good chance the fuel pump is seized.
Good hunting!
Ok got a little bit of an update today first thing was listened for fuel pump to start up which results in silence no sound at all when powered on so then I located the fuse panel and the EFI 10amp fuse was blown so I replaced the fuse with another 10amp and tried to start bike which was negative no start so I checked the fuse again and it wasn't blown all good so next step I pulled the fuse and checked fuse socket for resistance and continuity thru the fuel pump which my meter read open loop and I watched somewhere on a video that the open Loop reading would point to a faulty fuel pump is that correct?
 

Motogiro

Vrrroooooom!
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Member
Site Supporter
Joined
May 8, 2008
Messages
14,968
Reaction score
1,138
Points
113
Location
San Diego, Ca.
Visit site
There are so many different configurations of how a bike works. You may run into info that is not accurate for trouble shooting your bike. Check for voltage at the pump. If there is no voltage at the pump we can work back toward the Starter interrupt - cut off relay assembly.
 

Dale Scroggs

New Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2022
Messages
13
Reaction score
5
Points
3
Location
North Carolina
Visit site
There are so many different configurations of how a bike works. You may run into info that is not accurate for trouble shooting your bike. Check for voltage at the pump. If there is no voltage at the pump we can work back toward the Starter interrupt - cut off relay assembly.

Still on the quest to bring the FZ6 back to life. Today I checked for 12v at the fuel and nothing so voltage is not to there so I guess it's on to the next possible cause.....I did pull the Starter Relay Solenoid is that the next thing to check? If so please enlighten me on how to check. Thank you
 

Attachments

  • relay.jpg
    relay.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 11

Motogiro

Vrrroooooom!
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Member
Site Supporter
Joined
May 8, 2008
Messages
14,968
Reaction score
1,138
Points
113
Location
San Diego, Ca.
Visit site
If the starter motor operates the starter solenoid is working. Is the starter motor spinning over the engine? I thought you said in the beginning that the starter motor was operational. This is important information in finding the problem because the starter and the fuel injection are both interrupted by a safety relay assembly that uses the neutral safety switch, the clutch lever switch and sidestand switch to meet safety protocols enabling starting and running the bike. Has this bike ever been stolen or in a crash?
 

Dale Scroggs

New Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2022
Messages
13
Reaction score
5
Points
3
Location
North Carolina
Visit site
Yes the engine spins over very good but never changes sound just spinning no crank. I've got the starter solenoid off and done a little research on which 2 post to apply 12v to make the relay cycle on and off and that seems to work ok hear it and see it click on and off but I connected my meter to the output lugs and as the relay kicks on and off I get zero dc voltage shouldn't that be 12dcv coming out?
 

Dale Scroggs

New Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2022
Messages
13
Reaction score
5
Points
3
Location
North Carolina
Visit site
No on the stolen or laid down part as far as I know the guy that the bike is registered to passed away a few years ago and its basically sit in storage since 2009 but it wasn't running when it was put in storage the bike was given to my friend as a gift. it's a 2007 with little over 7k miles looks like new.
 

Dale Scroggs

New Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2022
Messages
13
Reaction score
5
Points
3
Location
North Carolina
Visit site
If the starter motor operates the starter solenoid is working. Is the starter motor spinning over the engine? I thought you said in the beginning that the starter motor was operational. This is important information in finding the problem because the starter and the fuel injection are both interrupted by a safety relay assembly that uses the neutral safety switch, the clutch lever switch and sidestand switch to meet safety protocols enabling starting and running the bike. Has this bike ever been stolen or in a crash?
So this neutral safety switch, the clutch lever switch and kickstand switch is all wired in series si if one is not made the others don't see voltage? in turn causes no voltage to the fuel pump which causes no fuel to injections? At least I'm learning a thing or two.
 

Motogiro

Vrrroooooom!
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Member
Site Supporter
Joined
May 8, 2008
Messages
14,968
Reaction score
1,138
Points
113
Location
San Diego, Ca.
Visit site
Okay the engine cranks but does not run/start. If the starter works you should see 12 VDC on one lug and when you hit the starter you should see voltage on the other lug. One lug is constant 12 VDC to the battery. When you measure voltage your meter should have one + probe to the positive source and the other lead should be at engine chassis ground or battery negative lead.
If you've tested the fuel pump from it's red with blue tracer wire(positive probe) with the negative lead at chassis or negative battery lead (negative probe)
with the key on and you have no 12 VDC. you'll need to start back tracking.
Now if I remember correctly there are 2 similar looking relays under the left side plastic pod cover. Remove the left pod cover. The relay assembly you're interested in has a 16 wire plug. With the key on, test for 12 VDC at the solid red color wire. If there is voltage there, but not at the red with blue tracer wire, the fuel pump/injector relay is open. The ECU is what fires that relay given safety protocols are all met. If the lean angle sensor is triggered the ECU will not allow the fuel injection relay operation. There is a chance the fuel pump has failed previously and if someone kept replacing the fuse over and over, the relay contacts were burned because of high current.

The safety switches are not a series setup but instead use logic through diodes In the (Starter interrupt - cut off relay assembly) This relay assembly provides the diode logic and 2 separate relays, one for the starter and one for the fuel pump and injection.
 

Dale Scroggs

New Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2022
Messages
13
Reaction score
5
Points
3
Location
North Carolina
Visit site
Okay the engine cranks but does not run/start. If the starter works you should see 12 VDC on one lug and when you hit the starter you should see voltage on the other lug. One lug is constant 12 VDC to the battery. When you measure voltage your meter should have one + probe to the positive source and the other lead should be at engine chassis ground or battery negative lead.
If you've tested the fuel pump from it's red with blue tracer wire(positive probe) with the negative lead at chassis or negative battery lead (negative probe)
with the key on and you have no 12 VDC. you'll need to start back tracking.
Now if I remember correctly there are 2 similar looking relays under the left side plastic pod cover. Remove the left pod cover. The relay assembly you're interested in has a 16 wire plug. With the key on, test for 12 VDC at the solid red color wire. If there is voltage there, but not at the red with blue tracer wire, the fuel pump/injector relay is open. The ECU is what fires that relay given safety protocols are all met. If the lean angle sensor is triggered the ECU will not allow the fuel injection relay operation. There is a chance the fuel pump has failed previously and if someone kept replacing the fuse over and over, the relay contacts were burned because of high current.

The safety switches are not a series setup but instead use logic through diodes In the (Starter interrupt - cut off relay assembly) This relay assembly provides the diode logic and 2 separate relays, one for the starter and one for the fuel pump and injection.

Wow that's a lot to try and process but luckily I have 40 years of trouble shooting mechanical/electrical machinery problems before retiring in Jan. of this year. Ok starter relay solenoid i take it as good it causes the starter to turn the engine over. There is no voltage at fuel pump with switch on for sure so I will try and locate the 16 wire plug tomorrow. the most wires I seen in a plug was the ECU connection but that's not what you're talking about is it?
 
Last edited:

Motogiro

Vrrroooooom!
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Member
Site Supporter
Joined
May 8, 2008
Messages
14,968
Reaction score
1,138
Points
113
Location
San Diego, Ca.
Visit site
Wow that's a lot to try and process but luckily I have 40 years of troubling mechanical/electrical machinery problems before retiring in Jan. of this year. Ok starter relay solenoid i take it as good it causes the starter to turn the engine over. There is no voltage at fuel pump with switch on for sure so I will try and locate the 16 wire plug tomorrow. the most wires I seen in a plug was the ECU connection but that's not what you're talking about is it?
Welcome to retirement! If you're like me there's alway something broken, squeekin or rustin so no rest for us. To tell the truth you'll live longer if you keep moving.

No not talking about the ECU plug. I'm pretty sure it's under the left pod. You'll be able to test voltage via the wire color codes I've described.
 

Dale Scroggs

New Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2022
Messages
13
Reaction score
5
Points
3
Location
North Carolina
Visit site
Welcome to retirement! If you're like me there's alway something broken, squeekin or rustin so no rest for us. To tell the truth you'll live longer if you keep moving.

No not talking about the ECU plug. I'm pretty sure it's under the left pod. You'll be able to test voltage via the wire color codes I've described.

The daily update. Motogiro I found the 16 wire relay assembly no problem right where you said it would be and I checked the red wire with key on and yes 12 volts so I plugged the plug back in and seen the red wire mates up with red blue tracer wire so I run a continuity check from where it comes out of the plug to where it plugs into the fuel pump and it test good so I checked again for voltage and bam I had 12v now at the fuel pump plug but I didn't a few days ago but after doing a little back tracking I remember I found the EFI fuse blown and replaced it but never went back and checked the red/blue wire for fuel pump voltage again after replacing the fuse. So today I feel like with you're help I've traced the problem back to the fuel pump It does nothing with voltage applied. My friend is going to order a new fuel pump tonight and hopefully we'll hear that baby fire up soon. I'll update after fuel pump installation. Thanks so much
 

Motogiro

Vrrroooooom!
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Member
Site Supporter
Joined
May 8, 2008
Messages
14,968
Reaction score
1,138
Points
113
Location
San Diego, Ca.
Visit site
The daily update. Motogiro I found the 16 wire relay assembly no problem right where you said it would be and I checked the red wire with key on and yes 12 volts so I plugged the plug back in and seen the red wire mates up with red blue tracer wire so I run a continuity check from where it comes out of the plug to where it plugs into the fuel pump and it test good so I checked again for voltage and bam I had 12v now at the fuel pump plug but I didn't a few days ago but after doing a little back tracking I remember I found the EFI fuse blown and replaced it but never went back and checked the red/blue wire for fuel pump voltage again after replacing the fuse. So today I feel like with you're help I've traced the problem back to the fuel pump It does nothing with voltage applied. My friend is going to order a new fuel pump tonight and hopefully we'll hear that baby fire up soon. I'll update after fuel pump installation. Thanks so much


That's great news! Might as well be sure and clean up the fuel tank. Treat flammables with caution making sure you have plenty of open ventilation, no available voltages and use a ground strap. while you're waiting for the fuel pump clean the fuel rail.
Congratulations! you're a step closer to a possible treasure!
 

Dale Scroggs

New Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2022
Messages
13
Reaction score
5
Points
3
Location
North Carolina
Visit site
That's great news! Might as well be sure and clean up the fuel tank. Treat flammables with caution making sure you have plenty of open ventilation, no available voltages and use a ground strap. while you're waiting for the fuel pump clean the fuel rail.
Congratulations! you're a step closer to a possible treasure!

Good news but not where it needs to be........installed the new fuel pump today and it powered on like it should and after a few unsuccessful tries the engine fired up but the idling was really rough but it started. I just let the engine idle (rough Idle) and every time i even cracked the throttle to rev a little it would die so this went on for a while but it started back easy just won't throttle. Remember this bike hasn't run in 12 years does the no rev sound like an injector problem? any suggestion on what to do to help with this problem?
 
Top