Need Help 2008 FZ6N Error 34 - Coils????

[carlwicker]

Hey guys, first time poster so Hi... I need some advice on Code 34 on my dashboard (FZ6N 2008).

Problem: The bike will start but sounds like moped and engine cuts out a few seconds if I dont maintain revs.

There is "34" on the dash which I assume is the error code.

* I have replaced the spark plug on cyclinder 3 (moneys tight to get a full set).
* I have replaced coils 2 & 3.

The problem still persists and Im reluctant to spend more money on it until I get some advice.

Does anyone have experience of this issue? or any advice as what to do next?

Cheers in advance.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Firstly, welcome.

Secondly, stop throwing parts at the problem.

As you are aware, fault code 34 is "Open circuit is detected in the primary lead of the ignition coil (#2, #3)". So lets focus on cylinders 2 & 3.

Here are the potential problems associated with that error code:

1. Open circuit in wiring harness.
2. Malfunction in ignition coil.
3. Malfunction in ECU.
4. Malfunction in a component of ignition cut-off circuit system.

Numbers 3 & 4 are unlikely. Since you already replaced a coil, that leaves us with number 1, an open circuit in the harness. There are two wires that connect to the 2/3 coil, a red/black wire which is power, and a gray/black that is the timing trigger. WIth the ignition in the ON position, you should see about 12VDC on the red/black wire. If you don't there is a problem in the circuit. While that wire goes back to the ECU, it makes a mid-point stop at the RUN/STOP switch at the throttle quadrant. Many (many many) people have cured the problem you are describing by cleaning the contacts in the housing. This is especially true if the bike lives outside.

 

[carlwicker]

Thanks for getting back to me with this information, I'll check the voltage and the run/stop switch tomorrow and report back. Im running out of daylight hours to tackle it now.

Thanks again for the advice.

 

[carlwicker]

Numbers 3 & 4 are unlikely. Since you already replaced a coil, that leaves us with number 1, an open circuit in the harness. There are two wires that connect to the 2/3 coil, a red/black wire which is power, and a gray/black that is the timing trigger. WIth the ignition in the ON position, you should see about 12VDC on the red/black wire. If you don't there is a problem in the circuit. While that wire goes back to the ECU, it makes a mid-point stop at the RUN/STOP switch at the throttle quadrant. Many (many many) people have cured the problem you are describing by cleaning the contacts in the housing. This is especially true if the bike lives outside.

* I had another poke around on the bike today and cleaned the run/stop switch with some electrical contact cleaner... the switch looks fine and functions as expected. The bike is out on the street so I was hoping this was the problem but sadly not.

* I've also checked the voltage to the coil 2/3 red/black wire, it reads 11.98v

Any other advice would be great, as Im totally stuck on what to do next.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Gary in NJ]

How does 11.98v compare to the battery voltage? If the battery is below 12.5 volts, it probably won’t start.

Follow the red and gray wires back to the connector and inspect that connector for corrosion. If it showing any signs, spray it with contact cleaner. You might want to do the same at the ECU.

 

[carlwicker]

How does 11.98v compare to the battery voltage? If the battery is below 12.5 volts, it probably won’t start.

I'll check the battery voltage again in a few mins, the bike starts fine but sounds like a moped... back in a mo once i've checked the battery voltage.

 

[carlwicker]

How does 11.98v compare to the battery voltage? If the battery is below 12.5 volts, it probably won’t start.

Battery is reading 12.5v

 

[Gary in NJ]

A 0.5v drop between the battery and the coil is on the high-side of normal. Check those connectors and see if that does the trick.

Did you happen to take resistance measurements from the coils? You can also swap the coils to see if the fault code becomes 33 (1&4).

 

[hun7ter]

Have you solved this issue? I'm getting error 34 after 10mins into my journey. Riding short distances is fine. Anything more than 10mins and it drops 2 cylinders and the CEL comes on.

 

[Gary in NJ]

When you loose spark after the engine has warmed, it's usually a sign of a failed coil. If you check the resistance, check it with the bike cold, and then again after it stops making spark. Like I mentioned above, you can swap the coils to see if Fault Code 34 becomes Fault Code 33. That would confirm it's the coil.