21,000 miles - Recommended Preventative Maintenance?

JRFZ6

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Hey everybody,
I'm new to the forum, so sorry if this is discussed elsewhere... I just pulled the engine out my my 2004 FZ6 for a very minor repair (last owner snapped the spark plug wire housing off inside the engine which has made it impossible to swap out the plug. And yes, I tried to fish the piece out every way possible, and failed 3 different times).

Anyway, I have the engine out on my workbench, and I'm wondering if there are other preventative maintenance things I should do before reassembling (internal cleaning, replace gaskets/seals/parts, etc.).

The bike runs without issue, but has about 21,000 miles, so I suspect it will need some type of overhaul in the near future. I'm the third owner, and there's no maintenance records, so I don't really know what has already been done. I've got a couple months before riding season starts back up, and would prefer to get ahead of issues rather than have to do another tear down mid-summer when I should be out riding instead.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also, any tips on quality/well priced suppliers for replacement parts?

Thanks in advance!
 

ChanceCoats123

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Well at ~26,000 miles, the valve check needs to be done. I'm certain it would be much easier to do with the motor out of the frame since the heads are so easily accessible now.

We've had a few members on here talk about grenaded clutch plates which basically ruined the motor. So if you're looking for extra work and you're oil change is coming up, I would do two things: pull the clutch cover and inspect plates for burning which can lead to more slipping and increased heat which leads to blown up plates. If that shows any signs or damage, I would pull the oil pan and inspect for debris of any kind (metal or otherwise) and just make sure you don't have heavy particulates circulating in your lubrication system.

In terms of things you NEED to do, I would say there really aren't any tasks that need to be done. I would flush the coolant while the motor is out as well though.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Wecome and congrates!

+1 ^^. Check the valves while the engines out.

Its MUCH easier right now (and it likely WON'T need shim adjustments)..

Re later engine overhaul, its a pretty much a bullet proof engine. The clutch, if its been abused seriously, sure it can be an issue but generally holds up very well.. That you can easily do in the frame.. IMO, I wouldn't bother pulling the pan unless you have some metal particles in the oil/oil filter..

CCT, down the road in another 20-30,000 miles or if it starts rattling on the right side..

Also, just make sure your spark plug caps are tight on the plug wires. They sometimes loosen/arc and cause un-necessary vib's..

Check the valves, re-assemble and go ride!
:Sport:
 
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FinalImpact

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Does that mean you pulled the Head off; the valve cover, or what?

If any of the the above, even the "or what", I'd check and adjust the valves. Look in the How to area for setting if need be.

Be wise about how you load the frame and torque the bolts during install. In the ideal world, ALL BOLTS Align perfectly AND through the center of their holes. I.E. >> Don't just let the jack down and tighten them. Try to get all Mounting holes as neutral (or centered) before bringing them to final torque.

Let us know if you have any questions.
 

JRFZ6

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Thanks for the tips guys. I'll add the valve check to the to-do list, and also skim through my owners/Haynes manual for recommended maintenance. Not sure why I didn't think of that myself (derp!).

Re: the clutch plates - I drained the oil and coolant before taking the engine out, and didn't notice any debris, so I'm thinking that's ok. Then again, we just got half a foot of snow last night, so I might just pull the clutch cover to have a look anyway, since I have the time and am always interested in seeing more of the inner workings of my toys.

As a side note, this made me think of another issue I noticed when draining the coolant - glitter sized metal shrapnel in the coolant. I suspect this is the water pump asking for replacement, but haven't started investigating this issue too deep yet. Any thoughts on what else might be the cause?
 

ChanceCoats123

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Thanks for the tips guys. I'll add the valve check to the to-do list, and also skim through my owners/Haynes manual for recommended maintenance. Not sure why I didn't think of that myself (derp!).

Re: the clutch plates - I drained the oil and coolant before taking the engine out, and didn't notice any debris, so I'm thinking that's ok. Then again, we just got half a foot of snow last night, so I might just pull the clutch cover to have a look anyway, since I have the time and am always interested in seeing more of the inner workings of my toys.

As a side note, this made me think of another issue I noticed when draining the coolant - glitter sized metal shrapnel in the coolant. I suspect this is the water pump asking for replacement, but haven't started investigating this issue too deep yet. Any thoughts on what else might be the cause?
Was there a lot of the glitter? If not, it could just be from the engine break in period. Clearances are quite tight from the factory on a brand new motor, and while it's recommended that the oil is changed early on, I don't believe coolant is changed for a while. It could just be small pieces from the initial running of the motor. I believe the block that our motor uses is cast (aren't they all?), which would mean it's entirely possible to have small debris from the cooling galleries.
 

FinalImpact

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Agreed ^^...

This one is not the first to report aluminum slivers in the coolant either.

I find it harder to accept that OEM block prep after machining CAST PARTS, somehow excluded cleaning the water jackets of machined debris. Shame on Yamaha if this is true. :spank:

That said, I know of folks dropping the tin foil cap cover from the coolant and brake filler bottles into the system(s) during repairs.
O/T but with ABS options, it can be spendy when shrapnel sticks a valve open and your ABS system shuts down.

Any chance its from the filling bottle seal?

PS - IF YOU PULL THE PAN for some reason, BUY A NEW SEAL for the OIL PICK UP!
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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s a side note, this made me think of another issue I noticed when draining the coolant - glitter sized metal shrapnel in the coolant. I suspect this is the water pump asking for replacement, but haven't started investigating this issue too deep yet. Any thoughts on what else might be the cause?

The pump is the only moving part in the coolant system.. Normally, if there's an issue with the the WP, it'll leak/seep coolant out the bottom of the pump.

I've never heard of metal flakes in the coolant but obviously, (with your post) it does happen. With what you spotted, I would pull that pump apart and at least inspect. Even if the "sparkles" are not from the pump itself, sparkles going thru the pump isn't good for the innerds of the pump (extra wear)..

The pump is ONLY available as separate parts and isn't terribly difficult to re-build The mechanical seal and ceramic(think its ceramic) seal will fail, especially if run (even for a very short period of time) without coolant, which acts as a lubricant too...

The parts fisch is here...
Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2004 FZ6 - FZ600SS WATER PUMP Diagram
 
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