Need Help ABS light ON and speedometer at 0

[lekebrett]

Hello!

I did a pre-season maintenance on my 07 FZ6 which included new tires, new battery, oil and oil-filter change and lubing the clutch wire. I struggled a bit with getting the rear tire and brake caliper aligned but after about 17 tries i managed to mount the rear tire back on.

Yesterday, right before i parked, the ABS light flashed bright red and my spedometer showed 0 KP/H even though i was moving. I tried turning the bike OFF and ON and the problem disapeared. Today when i i rode my bike into town the same problem arose after about 1KM of riding. I stopped my bike, turned it off and on agian - the problem disapeared. I rode another kilometer and the problem was back, rinse and repeat.

When i finally made it to town i parked my bike and in between stopping the bike and actually turning it off, i got a yellow engine light lighting up aswell as my ABS light - sick of dealing with the problem there and then i turned the bike off and did my errands. Fast forward to me getting back on the bike and turning the key but not igniting, i noticed error code 46 popping up. Starting the bike removed the code and the yellow check enging light. The entire way home was exhausting as the ABS problem popped up every kilometer again.

Does anyone know what the problem is and/or how to fix it? I've tried googling the issue but not seen anyone having the exact same issue as me. I've found out that the speed sensor is appart of the ABS but i havent got a clue if its the front or back ABS.

Its also worth noting that i have heated grips and CTEK charging port for the battery connected to the battery aswell.

Thanks in advance!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Make sure the rear wheel and rear brake bracket is installed correctly.:

 

[trepetti]

Hello!

I did a pre-season maintenance on my 07 FZ6 which included new tires, new battery, oil and oil-filter change and lubing the clutch wire. I struggled a bit with getting the rear tire and brake caliper aligned but after about 17 tries i managed to mount the rear tire back on.

Yesterday, right before i parked, the ABS light flashed bright red and my spedometer showed 0 KP/H even though i was moving. I tried turning the bike OFF and ON and the problem disapeared. Today when i i rode my bike into town the same problem arose after about 1KM of riding. I stopped my bike, turned it off and on agian - the problem disapeared. I rode another kilometer and the problem was back, rinse and repeat.

When i finally made it to town i parked my bike and in between stopping the bike and actually turning it off, i got a yellow engine light lighting up aswell as my ABS light - sick of dealing with the problem there and then i turned the bike off and did my errands. Fast forward to me getting back on the bike and turning the key but not igniting, i noticed error code 46 popping up. Starting the bike removed the code and the yellow check enging light. The entire way home was exhausting as the ABS problem popped up every kilometer again.

Does anyone know what the problem is and/or how to fix it? I've tried googling the issue but not seen anyone having the exact same issue as me. I've found out that the speed sensor is appart of the ABS but i havent got a clue if its the front or back ABS.

Its also worth noting that i have heated grips and CTEK charging port for the battery connected to the battery aswell.

Thanks in advance!

An error 46 is 'Vehicle system power supply'. So before you go chasing down any specific electrical issues you need to make sure the battery is good and the charging system is functioning. Put a volt meter across the battery terminals and make sure you are getting something like 12.6v or more with the engine off. Even if if you are, you should have the battery load tested to ensure it is able to deliver the needed amount of current to operate the bike's electrical system.

Regardless of the results of the above tests, make sure that the charging system is putting out more than 13v at idle. Also, rev the engine and make sure that the charging voltage doesn't drop (the sign of a bar regulator/rectifier). It should rise to or slightly over 14v at 5000 rpm.

As for the grips, there might be issues with the wiring or the device themselves might have gone bad and are drawing more current then normal. I would disconnect them before I did the above tests to uncomplicate the results. The heated grips should be isolated from the bike with a relay that is energized only when the engine is running (I use the low-beam headlight wire as a trigger for switched power).

If you disconnect them and the problems go away, measure the current draw from them by wiring a volt meter in series with the hot wire and noting the current draw with the device off and on.

Not sure if you are ok with electrical work, but the above tests are not that hard to do. If you have someone local to help that would be great, otherwise the crew here will do our best to help you through....

 

[trepetti]

Make sure the rear wheel and rear brake bracket is installed correctly.:

...and as Scott says, the ABS sensor for the rear wheel is connected to this bracket at the rear wheel. There have been MANY instances of riders who have had their rear wheel off and reinstalled this bracket incorrectly. Here in the US where we don't have ABS, this would lead to scraping the rear disk and all sorts of other alignment issues. Knowing that the ABS sensor needs to be positioned properly in relation to the 'tone wheel' (the thing on the wheel that gives the sensor speed information) and knowing that you just had the rear wheel off before this problem emerged, this is a likely issue.

Not sure how that would trigger a 46 error though. There is a strong possibility that there is more than 1 problem.

Good luck and make sure to report back with progress, problems or the solution.

 

[Motogiro]

Each sensor has 2 wires and a 2 pin plug. It may be as simple as a sensor coming unplugged. Each sensor also transmits data directly to the ECU.

 

[lekebrett]

Thank you everyone for the responses, means alot!

Currently a couple beers down into saturday evening so i wont be out looking at it tonight. Im getting new brake pads shipped to me sometime early next week and intend to install them as soon as they arrive. I'll be able to controll wether or not i've installed the ABS correctly then

As for the battery - its completely new and was charged (for good measure) on the kitchen counter for two days prior to being installed. I find it unlikely, but not impossible, that the battery itself is the fault. Ofcourse i might be wrong and ill definately check it with a volt meter along with disconnecting the heated grips.

I'll report back when i've done these things!

 

[Gary in NJ]

The battery may be fine, but the connection may not be. Give it a good inspection.

 

[lekebrett]

Took the wheel and rear brake calipper off today, re-installed the brake properly to the bracket (atleast i think i did) mounted the wheel - and re-aligned it on both sides. The abs light is blinking unevenly from the moment the rear wheel starts moving.

 

[lekebrett]

Also worth noting: Error code 46 has disapeared by the looks of it, have not seen it since my one stop in town. Error code 33 has reappeared for me as i had two instances last year during a road trip where the yellow check engine light popped up and gave me that code. Fixed it by revving the engine to the red line a couple of times.

 

[Motogiro]

Took the wheel and rear brake calipper off today, re-installed the brake properly to the bracket (atleast i think i did) mounted the wheel - and re-aligned it on both sides. The abs light is blinking unevenly from the moment the rear wheel starts moving.

I'm wondering if your getting a light because the rear wheel is moving without the front wheel moving. ABS brakes are dependent on the differential speeds of the wheels so maybe you need to ride it.

Also worth noting: Error code 46 has disapeared by the looks of it, have not seen it since my one stop in town. Error code 33 has reappeared for me as i had two instances last year during a road trip where the yellow check engine light popped up and gave me that code. Fixed it by revving the engine to the red line a couple of times.

If you haven't done it, pull the ECU plug and inspect the connections. Also an intermittent kill switch can cause codes and problems from poor contacts that react to vibration.

 

[lekebrett]

I'm wondering if your getting a light because the rear wheel is moving without the front wheel moving. ABS brakes are dependent on the differential speeds of the wheels so maybe you need to ride it.

Tried riding it aswell and got the same fault again.



If you haven't done it, pull the ECU plug and inspect the connections. Also an intermittent kill switch can cause codes and problems from poor contacts that react to vibration.

That was my next thought. I'll try inspecting the wiring on and around the battery aswell as the ECU

Thanks!

 

[Gary in NJ]

Check the engine ground as well.

 

[lekebrett]

In regards to the ABS, I tried spinning only the front wheel while in neutral. I get no speed reading at all and the ABS light lit up and did not go out until i cut power.

 

[trepetti]

In regards to the ABS, I tried spinning only the front wheel while in neutral. I get no speed reading at all and the ABS light lit up and did not go out until i cut power.

Do you have a copy of the Yamaha service manual to help with the troubleshooting procedures?

 

[lekebrett]

Do you have a copy of the Yamaha service manual to help with the troubleshooting procedures?

Im using this one as of now - but not entirely sure im on the right track. I'll update when i get my front wheel of and inspect the ABS plate

 

[trepetti]

Im using this one as of now - but not entirely sure im on the right track. I'll update when i get my front wheel of and inspect the ABS plate

OK, you have the right manual....

 

[Ben sIII]

In regards to the ABS, I tried spinning only the front wheel while in neutral. I get no speed reading at all and the ABS light lit up and did not go out until i cut power.

These bikes dont take their speed from the front wheel, the worm drive speedo is very much a yesteryear design. the speed is read the gearbox, and hence why you got no speed, but having a difference between the front and back wheel will set off the abs.

As mentioned above, if you have a new battery and getting power faults, check your bikes charging system and your connection to the battery for good contact and corrosion issues.

Good luck

 

[Motogiro]

These bikes dont take their speed from the front wheel, the worm drive speedo is very much a yesteryear design. the speed is read the gearbox, and hence why you got no speed, but having a difference between the front and back wheel will set off the abs.

As mentioned above, if you have a new battery and getting power faults, check your bikes charging system and your connection to the battery for good contact and corrosion issues.

Good luck

Yes! That old worm gear is not used on the front wheel any more but the front wheel ABS or rear wheel ABS sensor are used to calculate speed. Looking at the schematic on the ABS bike, there is no speed sensor listed. Only the front a rear ABS sensors and there is no speed sensor as there is on the non ABS FZ6.

 

[lekebrett]

UPDATE:

I SEEM TO HAVE FIXED THE ISSUE(S)!

ABS Light:
I dismounted both wheels, cleaned the ABS sensor with a dry piece of cloth along with the sensor "teeth" on the wheel. Mounted everything according to manual and BOOM(!) the ABS light went away and i now have readings on my speedometer.

Fault code 46:
Disappeared by itself before i managed to diagonse it, might be related to a loose connection on battery.

Fault code 33:
This was the real b*tch of my problems. It all came down to a couple of loose (and somewhat corroded) connections on the coil managing sparkplug 1 and 4. I cleaned up the corrosion by brushing the connectors lightly with a steel brush followed by a dry cloth. I then corrected one of the plugs as it was bent and could not be fitted properly. I wrapped it up using a healthy amount of electrical tape to keep everything dry and in place.

As this is my first time working on an MC mechanically, ever, i tought it could be nice to give a step by step guide as to how i accessed the coils.
1. Dismount the inner fairings on both sides keeping the fuel tank in place
2. Unscrew the fuel tank and lift the tank up carefully to not put strain on the fuel pump wires.
You can dismount the entire fuel tank by undoing the bottom screws and disconnecting the fuel pump, i just found it easier to use some load straps i had laying around and attach them to the tank and a support beam just under my ceiling.
3. Unscrew the 6 philips head screws holding the air intake cover on and lift the cover off.
4. Undo the battery along with any connections sitting on top of it. Remove the battery from the bike.
You can techincally reach the coil now but i found the space to be tight to do progressive work at all. Try and see if you can reach it at this point, else follow this guide further.
5. Disconnect the air hoses going into the air intake along with the sensor.
6. Now you have to undo the "clips" holding the 4 main air inlets in place. They are located directly under the air intake and requires an allen wrench to undo. (The third to the right can be a pain in the ass to undo)
7. You should be able to move the battery housing at this point. Pull it towards you and you should be able to see the two coils fitted at the back of them.

On my bike the top coil was for spark plug 1 and 4, the bottom for 2 and 3. If you follow the cable going down to the plugs, they should be labeled with the spark plug they are attached to (i.e. 1/2/3/4)

Thank you everyone for the much needed help and advice you guys provided me with. It made my journey through this mechanical mountain of mess (that is what it felt like) alot easier for me