Add me to the statistics... Another overtightened oil plug!

Andyman

New Member
'07
9k Miles.
First bike!
'Had it for a month.
Stripped the Oil Plug & cracked the oil pan today [LOUD SIGH]

Thought I would change the plugs and do an oil change today. Success on the plugs, thought I'd buy a fancy Torque wrench to make my "mechanic skills" +1.
The usual story - manual says 31 ft-lbs on the oil plug. I got the torque wrench for the chain nut really but what the heck! I paid $70 for it! I might as well be precise on everything the manual points to exact torque!

Mistake #1
I ASSumed the torque wrench (3/8's 10-75 lbs Craftsman from Sears) would work like any ole power drill: just stop tightening and spin with some sort of ratcheting noise.

Mistake #2
The manual says 31 ft-lbs of DRY torque. Debated, but apparently there is a difference. I have no clue what this difference is.
I read that another guy (you probably read his post if you found mine) started with something like 15-18 ft-lbs and still stripped the thread.

Mistake #3
I continued to crank down on the oil plug because I wasn't positive the Torque wrench was engaging. I felt it do a subtle SINGLE click many times but I'm an idiot and didn't stop to think I might actually overtighten this nut.

Mistake #4
Racing the setting sun because I wanted to ride so badly

Cracked_OilPan.jpg

Cracked_OilPan_wide.jpg

The culprit: (I'm sure you expect a selfie here but I need something to blame)
Torque_wrench.jpg

Save yourself plenty of cash and A LOT of time - 1/4 turn after hand tight. "JUST SNUG!"
 

Ninja Apprentice

Junior Member
Dang nice crack you have there! Go big or go home eh?

I think I saw an oil pan for sale on the forum recently. If you don't see one here, I would try Ebay or check to see if you have a local shop that sells used motorcycle parts. Might be able to find one that way. Buying one new will probably cost you an arm and a leg so save that for a last resort.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
12 ft lbs is PLENTY (counting its wet with oil) and NOT being load bearing, just needs to be snug. I torque it the same as the filter and replaced the yamaha gasket with a re-usable automotive (I think 14mm ID) COPPER washer


Your pan assembly;
Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2007 FZ6 - FZS6W OIL CLEANER Diagram

A new pan with new drain plug/washer is $129 plus gasket.

I just ordered some things from Partzilla, no issues, packaging was EXCELLENT!! No way UPS was damaging anything in that box..


BTW, once the wrench clicks, your done obviously.


My Yamaha OB engine, (F150) SAME size PLUG, aluminum case, factory spec's is 21 FT LBS. And the block is solid all the around unlike the FZ..

The oil change (for the OB) kit NOW comes with an aluminum washer (was like the FZ), which torques down super quick(no squashing down- and NO leaks)



Lastly, you like to have a wrench that your "target" # , is in the middle of range of the range ideally.



**NOTE: There is ONE BOLT in the center of the pan that needs to be R&Red when swapping pans.
 
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Andyman

New Member
I coudnt't find a used pan so I grabbed one off Partzilla. With the oil pan gasket and gaskets for the exhaust it rang up around $160.

Definitely a costly mistake, but lesson learned! I won't be afraid to try anything anymore! Hard to top those consequences.

**NOTE: There is ONE BOLT in the center of the pan that needs to be R&Red when swapping pans.
Which bolt are you referring Townsends? The dowel pin? And sorry my internet slang sucks - R&R?

The tips are appreciated!

Thanks.
 

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Super Moderator
Site Supporter
R&R remove & replace...

Sorry to see this... Adding lube to threads and washer can lead to 25 - 30% over torque and add the fact that it wants a new crush washer which will deform some and BAM, we're in trouble.

Golden rule: when bolts/nuts stop turning, you better be careful as something has to give. If the bolts/studs can not stretch something must deform in order for fastener to continue to rotate. In this case its the pan. Again, very sorry!

As for torque wrenches; 99.9% of them are the most accurate near full scale. i.e. a wrench with a max of 100ft/lbs is most accurate from 90 to 100ft/lbs, hence why they document them as +/-4% of full scale reading (example).

Note: Soak all the exhaust related bolts with penetrating lubricant each day before the pan arrives. Mainly the head studs/nuts. Esp if your area salts the roads.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
Andyman;617857 [B said:
Which bolt are you referring Townsends?
[/B]

.


On page 5-43 in the Yamaha manual, its adjacent to the oil level switch and should be recessed. Once the header is off, you'll see a hole and the bolt should be up there. Just don't FORCE anything, it'll pretty much fall off with a tap or two IF all the bolts are removed.

**Should be bolt #14 here**;
Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2007 FZ6 - FZS6W OIL CLEANER Diagram

Notice a different part # than the rest of the pan bolts(bolt # 13)?


There's also header to head "gaskets" don't loose them. And as FI noted, start lubing those header bolts and gently work the nuts back and forth. If it doesn't move with some force, STOP!!!. A heat gun, more penetrating oil, etc and keep working them till they come loose...
 
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Andyman

New Member
I've ordered:
Oil pan
Oil pan gasket
Exhaust pipe gaskets
1 spare exhaust pipe nut (just in case)
& the bolt that Townsends recommended (thanks, that would have been a 4 day wait for one $2.5 bolt)

Order is in with Partzilla. Great company btw! I called and added "bolt #14" to my order since hadn't shipped yet and didn't have to pay for shipping on it.

I'll pickup some penetrating oil today and start working on the exhaust header bolts. If they come off before the new parts get here I'll take the exhaust and oil pan off and tape off the exposed engine so as not to get dirt and junk in it.
I'm not sure I've got access to a heat gun but note taken, I will do it slowly and very gently. Maybe a blow dryer would help?
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
You don't need a NEW #14, just letting you know its there!!

Its often not seen, cancel that ordered bolt, I doubt they shipped yet...
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
If they come off before the new parts get here I'll take the exhaust and oil pan off and tape off the exposed engine so as not to get dirt and junk in it.

I'm not sure I've got access to a heat gun but note taken, I will do it slowly and very gently. Maybe a blow dryer would help?
You may very well NOT need it all.

Soaking with PB Blaster, I found to work better than Liquid Wrench). A good hair dryer or even small propane torch would work better (obviously a much larger fire hazard) on the nut if needed. Just slow and gentle back and forth should work them off..

BTW, those nuts Do NOT have a lot torque on them.

** I developed a weird sound on mine a couple of years ago. Narrowed it down to 2 or 3 slightly loose header nuts. YES, they vibrated loose and they'd NEVER been taken off before or touched. I'll re-check every year or two. The manual doesn't call for anti-seize, etc when re-installing. I would just make sure their nice and clean/dry when re-installing.


Last side note, you can get a super cheap Harbor Freight heat gun for super cheap. My friend picked me up one years ago. It comes in VERY HANDY and does get VERY HOT, VERY QUICK!!
 
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FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Super Moderator
Site Supporter
Didnt think of this until now, I would highly recomend you add to your order: the oil pick up sump gasket.
The reason is once you pull the pan, the pickup gets moved and if not returned exactly to same location, the pickup may suck air around the seal (instead of oil) and damage the engine.

5EB-13415-00-00 YAMAHA SEAL, OIL STRAINER
Its cheap insurance.
 

Andyman

New Member
Didnt think of this until now, I would highly recomend you add to your order: the oil pick up sump gasket.
The reason is once you pull the pan, the pickup gets moved and if not returned exactly to same location, the pickup may suck air around the seal (instead of oil) and damage the engine.

5EB-13415-00-00 YAMAHA SEAL, OIL STRAINER
Its cheap insurance.
Done. A few bucks for insurance down the road sounds like wisdom.

Apreeshhh.
 

killertofu9

Junior Member
Might also want to get an ez oil drain valve to avoid ever having to remove the plug again. Just don't over torque it too. [emoji1]

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
Might also want to get an ez oil drain valve to avoid ever having to remove the plug again. Just don't over torque it too. [emoji1]

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
I've seen units that work with the flip of a lever (that "locks" down in an offset). Is that what your referring to?

I'd just be very leery as someone could really screw your day up, flipping that lever. Maybe safety wire it closed for normal operation.


But seriously, 12 ft lbs is plenty on the standard bolt.
 

RoadGator

New Member
OUch! I have a nice wrench I use. It was a military issue one that they let me keep, well I paid $10 because they were replacing all our tools so I got 2. I looked it up and well it was close to $400 or the dang thing. Works great. Glad that some of these gets posted though as other get buried and never seen again. Keeps people updated and not complacent.

We all make mistakes, it matters if you learn from it, teach others, oh and how much will this cost!

Quick question, You had it for a month. Was this dealer or PP bought? Did they change the oil before you bought it and if so why change it now? Just wondering.
 

Andyman

New Member
We all make mistakes, it matters if you learn from it, teach others, oh and how much will this cost!
If I had patience it would a have been less. I'm headed to the dragon in a few weeks with some buddies so I didn't want to wait. Didn't see any parts on here or eBay so bought new from Partzilla.
$166 for everything. (oil pan, gasket, header gaskets, spare nut, and oil strainer seal in the pump). The pan itself was only $129 new but since I got it open I may as well put some new gaskets in.

Quick question, You had it for a month. Was this dealer or PP bought? Did they change the oil before you bought it and if so why change it now? Just wondering
Bought it off craigslist. I can't remember if they seller had done a recent oil change or not, I was very googly eyed over the thought of owning it! My buddy came with to make sure it wasn't a stupid buy.
I've put a little over 1k in this first month and mostly just wanted to tinker and learn so I changed the plugs and did an oil change.
 

FB400

Super Member
^^ I like your new profile photo, Haha. At least your sense of humor survived!! We've all had our DOH!! moments. In 2012 I dropped my tank and broke the fuel outlet on the pump. Costed me $425 to replace. I'd say you did pretty well here
 

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Super Moderator
Site Supporter
^^ I like your new profile photo, Haha. At least your sense of humor survived!! We've all had our DOH!! moments. In 2012 I dropped my tank and broke the fuel outlet on the pump. Costed me $425 to replace. I'd say you did pretty well here


When I was working at the transmission shop back in the 90's, in the build room where transmissions were assembled had the hall of shame where some memorable components hung to remind us "Don't Ever Do That Again!" The dramatic nature of burned and severed parts representing the failure of one of us to correctly catch this fault or assemble the trans correctly. The smallest detail could cost a transmission its life!
I had single entry in my 6 year run. A Ford ATX from an SHO Tarus that I missed a plugged oil galley and it went out and burned up new set of planetary gears in the overdrive unit 1000 miles out of town. To this day I feel somewhat bad about that a poor family that wasted their vacation waiting for transmission shops to fix their car.
The Crispy Fried Planets hung in their remembrance (a tiny fleck of metal plugging a hole)..... It was kindly sent from the other AAmco Trans shop!
Nice guys!


Ya, so its like the valve shim in another thread and the pan crack Avatar....
[MENTION=27020]James Crispy[/MENTION]
 
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