Anyone ever rebuild a starter?

[trepetti]

Reassembling the bike after painting the sub frame, and I think my starter crapped out in the interim. After putting her back together Monday night, she started right up. But after waxing her tonight she will not crank.

Here is what is happening. Turning on the key everything is normal. Fuel pump primes, but when I hit the starter, just a big click from the starter relay on top of the battery. just a single click, not the buzzing you might get from a dead battery.

Threw a voltmeter on the battery and I have 13.6v. Hit the starter and it drops to 12.8v, so there is no significant current draw on the battery. If I put the bike in gear, there is no click. With the bike in gear, if I pull in the clutch, then I get the click again. That tells me that the starter circuit cut-off relay is doing its job. I have the battery and airbox out and checked the starter fuse, which looks and tests good.

The plan tomorrow is to test for voltage into and out of the starter relay, and to jump battery voltage to the starter to see if it spins.

Assuming that there is no wiring issues, it will be repair or replace the starter.

Anyone ever rebuild their starter? Looking for tips and tricks.

Even better, anyone have a working starter they want to part with?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Most starters have a solid bearing/bushing at each end.

I've seen them gum up over time and cause issues -hard to turn / seizing.

If you narrow down the issue to the starter, before you junk it, pull the end caps off and make sure the shaft is well lubed...

I think you can check for continuity in the internal wire ends. Cliff or Gary should be able to post "how to do".

With no drop in voltage, I suspect the starter is fine, crappy contacts inside the relay..

@Motogiro

 

[Motogiro]

Hmmmm. If you pull the starter and if the armature is free, it may just be a case of poor brush contact with commutator because of wear or grime.

 

[Motogiro]

I used to rebuild starters for an auto electric business.
I have a 98 4Runner and 4 years ago the starter stopped working. It has a plunger type contact assembly. I disassembled the starter. To replace or get rebuild parts was much more than it should be. The plunger has a ring that contacts 2 posts to transfer high current to the starter motor. I pulled the post assemblies and ring and silver soldered them to rebuild the contact areas. I reshaped the mating surfaces using my rotary tool. Reinstalled the starter and it's still working great.
When I say silver solder I'm not talking about plumbing solder that they commonly call silver solder. That plumbing solder is not silver solder. It's no lead solder and a mystery why they call it silver solder.

 

[trepetti]

I used to rebuild starters for an auto electric business.
I have a 98 4Runner and 4 years ago the starter stopped working. It has a plunger type contact assembly. I disassembled the starter. To replace or get rebuild parts was much more than it should be. The plunger has a ring that contacts 2 posts to transfer high current to the starter motor. I pulled the post assemblies and ring and silver soldered them to rebuild the contact areas. I reshaped the mating surfaces using my rotary tool. Reinstalled the starter and it's still working great.
When I say silver solder I'm not talking about plumbing solder that they commonly call silver solder. That plumbing solder is not silver solder. It's no lead solder and a mystery why they call it silver solder.

Thanks Cliff.

Update: I probed the output lead from the starter relay and it goes from 0 to 12.98 volts when the starter is pushed. Then I built myself a jumper and went from the battery + terminal to the starter and nothing. I will likely order a starter tomorrow. I am also going to try to pull the starter without removing the throttle bodies.

Ugh!

 

[Motogiro]

Before you order, I would pull the unit. It's probably gunk or something easy to fix....

 

[Gary in NJ]

I would inspect the brushes for wear (they are the items inside the springs). The brushes are sacrificial so as they wear they shed material and it gums up the commutator. Clean it all up, flip the brushes and see if it works.

 

[trepetti]

I would inspect the brushes for wear (they are the items inside the springs). The brushes are sacrificial so as they wear they shed material and it gums up the commutator. Clean it all up, flip the brushes and see if it works.

You took the words right out of my mouth....

I just finished for the night. I pulled the throttle bodies and removed the starter. After looking up the price and availability of a new starter, I figured I had nothing to lose, so I broke the starter down. One of the brushes are pretty worn and does not have much material left, but I cleaned the commutator, the brushes and the entire inners. Lubed the bearings, reassembled the unit, hooked it up to a battery and it spun right up.

Tomorrow I will likely order a new starter and reinstall this one for now. Never pulled the TBs off before, but now that I know the process, I am not worried about having to do it again during the riding season.

Lifetime learning......

 

[Motogiro]

@trepetti

Uh... https://www.amazon.com/CALTRIC-Star...ords=fz6+starter+parts&qid=1679020506&sr=8-11

 

[Gary in NJ]

For a few dollars I would just buy new brushes and be done with it. Measure the ones you have and add 50% to the length. You can “trim” them to the correct length (or what you think is correct) with fine sandpaper.

Edit- or just get the repair kit above.

 

[trepetti]

I saw this last night as well: https://www.amazon.com/Caltric-Starter-for-Yamaha-5Eb-81890-00-00/dp/B081K65W3R

I just have an innate suspicion when the OEM sells for $360+ on the low side, how can a reasonable facsimile cost $50? Has anyone ever used 'Caltric' stuff?

 

[Gary in NJ]

Let us know

 

[trepetti]

Let us know

Will do. I went riding yesterday and everything worked fine. At minimum I am going to order the rebuild kit. Might actually order both. But for the time I plan on leaving the original starter in place.