Back in the saddle

BustedS1

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Hello all,

I wanted to introduce myself - I just picked up a wrecked 2006 FZ6 for $400 from a guy who was moving later that day.

It's been a loooong time since I rode. Back in college I used to run around on a yzf600r, and tracked a 600rr and r1 - very much looking forward to relearning and introducing my wife to the joy we all know and love.

Planning r6 forks immediately, and I need to figure out what to do with the plastics - they're pretty busted, honestly, but don't want to spend a fortune in replacement parts haha.

Thanks for what I can already tell is a wealth of information - I look forward to participating and contributing as I'm able.

Have a good one!

- G

Edit:

Pics Added!






Currently she looks like this:

 
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Motogiro

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:welcome: to this great forum!

That's is a crazy good find! Yes we have a wealth of info and a great family here.
 

BustedS1

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I agree! Added new pics.

The bike does come with seat, exhaust, and a clean title.

Currently I am trying to figure out a solution to the frame issue. I took everything down last night, deleted the AIS system (always do that on all my bikes), did the airbox mod, and am changing the spark plugs today. I emptied and cleaned out the tank (well, as best I could, there's rust all inside it which I think might be the death knell) - as well as removed and cleaned the fuel pump. Removed and discarded all the broken plastics (only was able to save the two turn signal/winglet things). I think you may be right [MENTION=6338]TownsendsFJR1300[/MENTION] it definitely does seem that route, but I'm worried about the wife with the lack of wind protection. I have always rode fully faired and not sure I would want a naked. Are there solutions (i.e. large windscreen) for a naked?
 

Motogiro

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Looking at that break on the frame ear to sub frame. The sub frame is probably tweaked and should be replace with a new or a known good straight one. Since every connection on the frame is of integral importance to the bike's safety and performance. Then maybe remove the tank and the mid pipe so that a good welder can assess and maybe make good weld. Or replace that half of the frame?
 

Gary in NJ

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I removed my fairings (as many do) because the aerodynamics behind the fairing just suck (lots of buffeting). I wouldn't spend a dime on trying to fix a known problem.

Where you are going to spend a few dimes is on the frame. Given that the broken section is off line from the frame, there is indication that the frame is bent. I'm no welding expert, but I also thing a cast-to-cast weld may be tricky. Does this bike have a Salvage title? It might be cheaper to buy a used frame than to straighten, jig & weld a damaged frame.
 

BustedS1

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Looking at that break on the frame ear to sub frame. The sub frame is probably tweaked and should be replace with a new or a known good straight one. Since every connection on the frame is of integral importance to the bike's safety and performance. Then maybe remove the tank and the mid pipe so that a good welder can assess and maybe make good weld. Or replace that half of the frame?
I had thought about banging the subframe back in place, but hadn't made much progress with my mallet and a halfhearted attempted. Replacement would surely be easier. Unfortunately, that half of the frame is the VIN-coded side, so I'd wind up replacing the whole thing.


I removed my fairings (as many do) because the aerodynamics behind the fairing just suck (lots of buffeting). I wouldn't spend a dime on trying to fix a known problem.

Where you are going to spend a few dimes is on the frame. Given that the broken section is off line from the frame, there is indication that the frame is bent. I'm no welding expert, but I also thing a cast-to-cast weld may be tricky. Does this bike have a Salvage title? It might be cheaper to buy a used frame than to straighten, jig & weld a damaged frame.

Clean title, which is my reason for repair - rather than replace. I'm leaning towards a weld (although brazing is an option). The PO flipped it a couple times, but the rest of the mounts are good, so I think it's just the subframe that's tweaked. Really, the issue is how to get the frame to someone (motorcycle isn't rideable currently, i.e. no registration). Unless I pop off that half of the frame?
 

tej98

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Nice looking bike! I think I saw this one on Craigslist? When I texted about it there were a few people interested already. Was this the same one?
 

BustedS1

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Nice looking bike! I think I saw this one on Craigslist? When I texted about it there were a few people interested already. Was this the same one?

Probably - I happened to live about 30min away from the seller and messaged him almost immediately after it was posted.

Dug into it a little further - indeed the subframe is tweaked (floor is level, door is crooked)




Tearing it down further - I think I am going to have to pull the entire right-hand side of the frame to take it to a welder - unless I braze it. That's a legitimate option with a straight subframe, something like 40,000psi tensile strength. Thoughts?
 

Motogiro

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Yeah. Get a new or known good used sub frame, reassemble and see where the ear sits. Hopefully close to re aligning. Then get it welded by a good welder. Brazing is iffy especially with the stresses of a bike frame. Lucky that's not an engine to frame integral area. If the frame and the rest of the bike are relatively straight, you stole that bike. :)
 

Redonthehead

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do you have to do inspection in your state by that I mean they physically inspect the bike? If you do as soon as they see a weld/braze on the frame you are going to be salvage titled unless just for show you do the exact same on opposite side.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Get a new or known good used sub frame, reassemble and see where the ear sits. Hopefully close to re aligning. Then get it welded by a good welder. QUOTE]

+1 on this ^^^. If it lines up, get the main frame corner TIG welded back into place. Obviously "V"ing for full penetration.

With the new aluminum and patience (filing, sanding, Dremel, etc), you can get that corner looking like it was never broke and just as strong.

Some fresh paint and your good to go.

**The sub-frame, sitting bent NOW, was bent way more when it snapped off the main frame tab and came back to it's current position.


I sanded down some SERIOUS scraps on the main frame (large flat surface by your knee) when the PO laid the bike down at speed. No welding, painted and you cannot tell...

Lastly, we have a member who cracked his frame (Major abuse). He was able to remove that side of the frame with the bike mostly assembled. Sat the engine on a box, un-bolted the frame halves at the top, etc. (Chevyfazer as I re-call if you wish to search).

.
 

BustedS1

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All great information. Do you happen to know what the size of the Safety Torx bit is that I will need to break down the frame?

I called a couple of welders around the area for a quote. Travelling to my house would be $350-400. Breaking down the frame piece and bringing that to them - more like $150. So I think that's the route to go!
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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All great information. Do you happen to know what the size of the Safety Torx bit is that I will need to break down the frame?

I called a couple of welders around the area for a quote. Travelling to my house would be $350-400. Breaking down the frame piece and bringing that to them - more like $150. So I think that's the route to go!

Just checked my bike, it's a T50 Torx, (4 total).

Also, don't know if you realized it, but that broken area is hidden under the seat by about 3"....


I would bring the frame down for the welding only because it's easier for the welder to access inside and out.

If you have the "new" sub-frame, it may help the welder (installed) lining up the broken piece (actually holding it in place so there's NO slipping of the part).

I doubt you main frame is damaged (short of this corner) as the sub took the brunt of it and what it couldn't handle, that corner of the main frame "gave up the ghost".
 

BustedS1

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Just checked my bike, it's a T50 Torx, (4 total).

Also, don't know if you realized it, but that broken area is hidden under the seat by about 3"....

I did realize that - I'm not worried about inspection here, they're more concerned with improper HID retrofits and open pipes.


I would bring the frame down for the welding only because it's easier for the welder to access inside and out.

If you have the "new" sub-frame, it may help the welder (installed) lining up the broken piece (actually holding it in place so there's NO slipping of the part).

I doubt you main frame is damaged (short of this corner) as the sub took the brunt of it and what it couldn't handle, that corner of the main frame "gave up the ghost".

Yeah I went ahead ordered the new sub-frame, should be here next Monday. That's an interesting idea about providing him with the sub as an additional functional piece for him to use. I suppose I am paying enough for the labor, may as well help the guy get it as "right" as can be had.

Looking at the Torx bits now - thank you for the size info!
 

BustedS1

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It would be nice to know what happened with this bike...

Hey no worries,

I finished rebuilding the bike after the tear down, threw in a fresh battery and fuel and she started up and ran like a top.

Haven't yet finished the frame weld process, we bought a business and found out we're pregnant so things have been proceeding at breakneck speed in the BustedS1 household :D

I am looking at an R6 front end, clip-ons, ebay headlight, and bellypan for a nasty street-fighter look.

Anything in particular you were curious about?

As she sits now:

 
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