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Scott, I'll see your 'Huh" and raise you a "Wha?" What did we all add to the FZ6 body of knowledge?
I did inspect the filter and it was absolutely fine. The dirt I said was the culprit was not on the filter. It was inside the fuel passage in the pump housing, specifically between the pump housing discharge nozzle and intake nozzle.Just curious, from an earlier post , #17:
Quote: " I have inspected the filter and it is fine. Meanwhile, I bought a new pump and fixed it and still the won't start. " End quote..
Huh???
The internal filter-clogged:
.View attachment 73596
This could be a case where finer particulate got past the filter and caused a problem. This particulate could also be cause by other component/s in the fuel that formed post filter.I did inspect the filter and it was absolutely fine. The dirt I said was the culprit was not on the filter. It was inside the fuel passage in the pump housing, specifically between the pump housing discharge nozzle and intake nozzle.
I need to let you get me clearly. The discharge nozzle of the pump itself fits firmly into the intake nozzle of the pump housing. The discharge nozzle of the pump housing then connects firmly to a rubber tubing the goes to feed the injectors. The dirt was in between the pump housing intake and discharge nozzles. I couldn't imagine there could be dirt in there, giving the fact that the fuel passes through a filter even before it enters the intake nozzle of the pump it self.
The filter shown in your attachment was the one I inspected and it was fine.
I'm sorry if I disregard information that could have helped solve the problem quickly but I don't remember any suggestion that the fuel passage within the pump housing could be dirty and should be checked.Such is state of forum diagnostics. People with knowledge give advice, and person seeking said knowledge say “ I did that” without actually pausing to understand the knowledge.
Once the engine lit-off with a bit of starting fluid we focused on the number one cause of fuel-related starting problems; the fuel pump and filter assembly.
Maybe the information was too nuanced. Maybe it wasn’t sexy enough. Maybe it was denial. But the obvious answer was brushed off and we all went down a rabbit hole
I’m glad the bike is running, and I’m also glad that a bit of self discovery helped sort through the issue. The lesson for the OP is to dig deeper when given what may appear to be simple advice. The lesson for those that give advice is to never assume that someone understands the advice, and to give too much info. Such is the state of forum diagnostics.
Absolutely!This could be a case where finer particulate got past the filter and caused a problem. This particulate could also be cause by other component/s in the fuel that formed post filter.
In my earlier post, I remember I indicated the the bike's inability to start was preceded by a ticking noise. The ticking noise has not gone. Because of that, I think, the bike has lost power. If I opened the throttle more, the noise gets worse and the bike does not response in speed to the throttle opening.This could be a case where finer particulate got past the filter and caused a problem. This particulate could also be cause by other component/s in the fuel that formed post filter.
Please, how is it done?At this point it might be a good idea to do a compression test.
Please, how is it done?
Alright and thanks
Such is state of forum diagnostics. People with knowledge give advice, and person seeking said knowledge say “ I did that” without actually pausing to understand the knowledge.
Once the engine lit-off with a bit of starting fluid we focused on the number one cause of fuel-related starting problems; the fuel pump and filter assembly.
Maybe the information was too nuanced. Maybe it wasn’t sexy enough. Maybe it was denial. But the obvious answer was brushed off and we all went down a rabbit hole
I’m glad the bike is running, and I’m also glad that a bit of self discovery helped sort through the issue. The lesson for the OP is to dig deeper when given what may appear to be simple advice. The lesson for those that give advice is to never assume that someone understands the advice, and to give too much info. Such is the state of forum diagnostics.
The noise is coming from the right side of the engine. I opened the side cover and found that the timing chain is loosed. It is, however, tight at the tensioner side but loosed at the opposite side. Find attached, a video of that.If you need to perform a leak-down test, you will need a leak-down (aka a differential compression) tester and an air compressor. The inexpensive units sold by Harbor Freight are fine for a garage mechanic. It's also good to have a helper to hold the nut on the left side of the crank shaft at TDC while you perform the test and if necessary diagnose the problem. You will need a real good (long) breaker bar to hold against the pressure. Alternatively the bike could be put into gear...but in my experience that is more a hassle then just doing it correctly.
To conduct the test, the engine is held at TDC (top dead center or top of the compression stroke) for cylinder number one, and a reference value of air is added to the cylinder. There are two gauges on test equipment, one shows the reference pressure and the other shows the amount of pressure that the cylinder you are testing can hold. This procedure is repeated for each of the four cylinders.
Typically if the cylinder is holding 90% of the reference pressure (so if you used 80 psi, it should hold 72 psi) no further investigating is required. If it is below 90% you will need to discover why the cylinder is not holding pressure. Air escaping from the tail pipe is an indication that an exhaust valve or seat has failed. Air escaping from the throttle body is an indication that an intake valve or seat has failed. Air coming from the crankcase breather is an indication that one of the rings has failed.