Bike wont start

[Y0freshX]

(Edit bought a new battery still same issue )

So i had a crash broke my stator cover i replaced it today motorcycle been sitting for almost a week or more im able to bump start and it runs great but i cant use the starter it makes a clicking noise and the battery makes a silent fart .check the video
(Might help too)

https://youtube.com/shorts/9AA2avI5Xjc?feature=share

i checked all fuses they’re fine relays i haven’t checked but were the relays are the big one makes a click sound when i switch the key OFF to ON but not as loud


it was trowing these codes 61: 22 30 46 (after clearing codes code 12 showed up on 61

 

[Gary in NJ]

Did you check the tip-over relay?

 

[Y0freshX]

Yes and i tested it when i flipped it check engine would come up and goes back down but im guessing its working fine i just touched the starter and when i press the starter button i feel the thump or click in the starter

(quick question: could I accidentally misplaced the gear ontop of the stator i think is for the starter im thinking not bcs if not it wouldve broken and made a loud noise sorry for the nooby question and assumption)

 

[Gary in NJ]

I watched that video again. I wonder if there is a dead short in the system. I can’t think of a single reason that the instrument cluster would loose power during start. Can you get a multimeter on the battery during starter engagement to see what the voltage does?

 

[Y0freshX]

ignition OFF: 12.17v

ignition ON FI enganges: lowest is 11.93v Then goes back up to 12.12v

engaged starter: Dropped down to 5.66v held the starter for around 3s

battery voltage goes back to 12.16v

here is the vid if needed

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music that you love, upload original content and share it all with friends, family and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

 

[Gary in NJ]

That’s not a new battery. If it is it needs a charge. At 12.1 VDC there isn’t enough current for a start even if everything was functioning perfectly. Charge the battery back up to 12.7/12.8 VDC and give it another try. I’m not saying you get a different result, but with such a low battery it’s impossible to make a valid judgement.

 

[Y0freshX]

That’s not a new battery. If it is it needs a charge. At 12.1 VDC there isn’t enough current for a start even if everything was functioning perfectly. Charge the battery back up to 12.7/12.8 VDC and give it another try. I’m not saying you get a different result, but with such a low battery it’s impossible to make a valid judgement.

i pushed started the bike and i tested the battery with a voltmeter and i revved it around 2k+RPM

idle: 12.83v
2k+RPM : highest 13.02v

Video if needed:

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music that you love, upload original content and share it all with friends, family and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

 

[Motogiro]

That battery has no depth of charge. I would fully charge it and then load test it.
If the battery is low on charge it's internal resistance will be low which can load the charging system. This can make it look like the charging system is not reaching it's normal voltage as it would with a healthy battery. This internal resistance will rise as the battery charges to it's capacity which then reduces the load on the charging sytem where you will see the voltage rise. After the battery reaches it's full capacity the stator energy is regulated by shunting current and turning it to heat disapated through the regulator/rectifier heat sink. The stator, regulator/rectifier and battery must all be healthy. Start by proving the battery is healthy.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Plus 1 ^^, that battery's toast..

 

[Y0freshX]

Plus 1 ^^, that battery's toast..

I just bought it yesterday what battery do you recommend?

 

[Y0freshX]

That battery has no depth of charge. I would fully charge it and then load test it.
If the battery is low on charge it's internal resistance will be low which can load the charging system. This can make it look like the charging system is not reaching it's normal voltage as it would with a healthy battery. This internal resistance will rise as the battery charges to it's capacity which then reduces the load on the charging sytem where you will see the voltage rise. After the battery reaches it's full capacity the stator energy is regulated by shunting current and turning it to heat disapated through the regulator/rectifier heat sink. The stator, regulator/rectifier and battery must all be healthy. Start by proving the battery is healthy.

Going To charge it today will keep you updated tgank you all for you’re help

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good.

As stated earlier have it "load tested" to confirm its health..

.

 

[Y0freshX]

Got the battery tested

 

[Gary in NJ]

Your starter (or starter system) must be damaged from your crash, because it’s pulling down your entire electrical system. After the battery check are you still showing the same voltage readings?

 

[Y0freshX]

Your starter (or starter system) must be damaged from your crash, because it’s pulling down your entire electrical system. After the battery check are you still showing the same voltage readings?

It was reading 13.5volts after battery test i rode the motorcycle to autozone

 

[Y0freshX]

( video )

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music that you love, upload original content and share it all with friends, family and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

Note - i just connected the battery charger now just 2-3min of charging

With charger connected

14.67v
——————————————
charger disconnected

13.92v (stable)
——————————————
Pressed starter

8.35v (lowest Volt)
——————————————

Released starter

12.92v (Stable)
——————————————
Like you said might be the starter hopefully.

(when i cranked it i could feel a thump on the starter)

 

[Y0freshX]

All that black “dust” Came out of the starter

 

[Gary in NJ]

The black stuff is carbon from the brushes. Brushes are sacrificial and wear over time. The OEM Spec is for them to be 10mm long. The wear limit is 3.5mm. Yours are looking on the worn side. Measure them.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Looks like the starter is the culprit.

Before tearing the starter apart, you didn't just "bench test" it did you?
That'd be just attaching a ground from the starter to a battery, and positive to the terminal lug and see what happens.... It should spin over normally

 

[Motogiro]

First: Voltage is only one part of assessing the battery. Although voltage behavior is a pretty good and for the most time an accurate tool it does not tell us all of the story. The ability of the battery to produce higher current delivery for the time period needed by the starter is very important.
Not saying there isn't a problem with the starter. The commutator looks decent and although there is a little carbon dust from brushes, it doesn't look that bad.
I also agree a starter test would probably be a good indicator before taking it apart and you could still do that.

Edit: Do those Autozone testers actually provide a load to the battery?