Boston to Cape Breton, NS, Canada Trip Report

bcityroller

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Trip Report - Boston to Cape Breton, NS, Canada

Last week I took a trip from Boston area through the Cabot Trail. One of my co-riders (Tony) took the time to write a ride report and I added some of my own thoughts so I'm posting up as-is with his words being prime with a link to photos for those interested. I guess it'll be in two pieces to make the post limit.

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Boston to Cape Breton Canada Trip Report September 23-27, 2009

This marked my longest motorcycle trips thus far. 1750 miles in 5 days isn’t exactly a relaxed pace but the scenery and great company made it well worth the trip. Our group comprised of 6 solo riders on a Goldwing (Jack), Yamaha FZ6 (Scott), Ducati Multi Strada (Bill), BMW KLT (Doug), Honda Blackbird (Rich), and yours truly on the Triumph Trophy (Tony).

The most important key for a successful group ride with a time constraint is a well-planned trip. All credit must go to our young ride captain Scott (and his GPS).

DAY 1: Wednesday 9/23/09

Our plan was to be challenged right from the get-go. Jack found a screw in his new rear tire the day before so he diverted to Laconia NH for a new tire before meeting up with us in Bar Harbor at the end of the day. Scott was delayed for a few hours waiting for his wife to get home from work to care for their son who got ill. Rich had an oop-sie by dropping his what used-to-look-brand-new Blackbird before even getting underway. Bill decided to hang out be Scott’s wingman (what a guy!) so the plan was modified for Rich and I to meet Doug patiently waiting in Portland then meet-up with Scott and Bill along the way to Bar Harbor, our destination for the night. The weather was exceptionally nice and made-up for the rough start. From Portland, Doug Rich and I took 295 to route 1N along the coast. Unfortunately the good weather drew a bit of traffic and periodic road construction made slow going through the towns (yes Rich, we should have listened to you to take the rt. 90 loop around). We stopped in Camden for lunch and as we were settling our debts, I happened to look outside and wouldn’t you know there were Scott and Bill parading in stop & go traffic right outside, what timing! From Camden we pressed north on rt. 1 and we all got to experience some of the local aromas by getting stuck behind a baitfish truck leaking water and what ever else for about 10 miles! The strangest thing for me along the way 1N was seeing my compass point in every direction but north. We finally rolled in to Bar Harbor around 5pm and were greeted by Jack hanging out in the downtown area sipping his coffee. Rich, Doug, and I decided to use the remaining daylight to go to the top of Cadillac Mountain and do a small loop before checking in to our motel with the remaining crew. Cadillac Mountain was beautifully paved, a great ride with beautiful vistas save for the 50 mph gusts and 45 F temperatures at the top. We checked in to the biker-friendly Colony motel before a harbor side dinner at the Colony Restaurant. I wished I were brave enough to snap a photo of the Amish couple next to us. They looked like actors from the movie “Witness” starring Harrison Ford.
Scott’s Thoughts – Was happy to actually be on this trip after messing up my ribs a few weeks earlier and then having the little guy get sick, but I was ready to go cold and all. Thanks to Bill for waiting and riding the first stretch with me. I didn’t feel like we were making that great of time but we did manage to catch up with Doug, Rich and Tony even if they had a two-hour head start. The “half-a-Zakim” Penobscot Narrows Bridge was cool – those footings for the cables are huge when you’re riding right next to them. In Bar Harbor, Bill’s ability to find a beer store was less then stellar but it worked out. The innkeeper at the Colony was less than motivated – who leaves the office at 6PM? – but Bill, Jack and I sitting on porch having a beverage did seem to generate a line by the time she got back. Somewhere around then, I realized the getting on the ferry would be wet metal ramps – something to look forward to. Dinner was uneventful, except that apparently I was the only one who could read menus and checks - this would be consistent throughout the trip.

DAY 2: Thursday 9/24/09

Early rise to be at the CAT ferry by 7 am gassed with breakfast. The weather looked to be as promising as the day before. Just as we left the motel we saw a cruise ship off at a distance in the harbor maneuvering to drop anchor. Little did we know we know we’d get an up close and personal look at it and a second ship later on the CAT leaving the harbor. According to Scott who is a CAT veteran, we were not to have any good expectations of the ferry ride to Yarmouth. Fortunately the loading/unloading went smoothly, there were no long lines or delays, the ride was fairly smooth and we even got to see a few whales off the port side. The whole experience made the $176 one-way cost a lot less painful. Arrival and customs at Yarmouth was a breeze and after waiting for a “certain member” of our group to gear-up, we were headed northeast on NS 103 to Shelburne where we stumbled on the “best place in NS to eat”, the Charlotte Lane Café. Rt. 103 was ok but pretty desolate and made me think of how harsh and windy their winters must be looking at the stubby evergreens. We bailed off on rt. 14N taking us to the northwest side of NS via scenic rolling hills. It was a shame bad the road surface wasn’t better on rt. 14 but it made me really appreciate my suspension upgrade. At the end of the road our ride captain presented us with a choice of slabbing it to Truro (our destination for the evening) or taking the scenic roads and probably riding in darkness in to Truro. Majority vote was the scenic route (rt. 215) with absolutely no regrets. The road meandered through beautiful farmlands with Cobequid Bay on our left and rolling hills and marsh on the right with some great sunset views thrown in. It was definitely the highlight of the day. We made our way safely to Truro by nightfall with some of us looking very appealing to many fish varieties having many bugs adorning our helmets. After nixing one motel for lack of enough non-smoking rooms we checked into the Tidal Bore motel and had dinner at Frank & Gino’s.
Scott’s Thoughts – Yup, wet metal ramps on to the boat but in actuality not an issue. Despite all my bad-mouthing of the ferry earlier, at this time of year it wasn’t too bad – lots of seats, you could of got food if you wanted and the loading/unloading was fast and easy. I think the average age of the folks on board was like 100 though. Aside from leaving too quickly for Rich the riding to lunch was easy if a bit boring and I was glad when we finally got off the highway – the FZ6 was buzzy spinning 7-8k rpm at the speeds we were riding. In Truro, our waiter at dinner cracked me up a bit – he must have said “buddy” 1000 times – Doug, Rich and I all took in an east coast treat of donair.


DAY 3: Friday 9/25/09

I think what was on everyone’s mind was the anticipation of the Cabot Trail (our destination for the day and the trip for that matter) and not-so great weather forecast. What a bummer to come all this way and see nothing but fog and rain which Cape Breton is known for. The forecast called for showers with an unstable air mass over the Maritimes. We got underway early in dry conditions heading east on rt. 104 stopping along the way for breakfast. Bill got the atta-boy of the day with his call to get off the highway before the monsoon hit. Luckily the rain let up to intermittent showers towards St. Ann’s where we stopped at the entrance to the trail for lunch at the Lobster Galley. We got inside just in time before the next wave of rain hit and the view of the trail got socked-in. We encountered a young couple from Ontario riding a 1984 Honda 750K. They had turned around after 20 miles of really rough road and wet weather…not a good omen! They had plans to cross southern Canada in August but got delayed and were starting out in bad weather with no cold/wet weather riding gear. The one thing they had going for them was they were young! After lunch, we geared-up for the worse and were pleasantly surprised to see both the weather and road condition slowly improving as we pressed north on the trail. Personally I was a bit let down not seeing very much of the ocean in the first half of the trail (I had Gaspe as a reference where we rode along the ocean 90% of the way). Fortunately the ride and weather kept improving riding north through Cape Smokey and Ingonish. We were going to ride a loop through Neil’s Harbour but decided to press-on (sorry Rich) through the mountain pass west to Pleasant Bay on the other side of Cape Breton also bypassing a one-way in and out jaunt to Capstick. The roads were still wet and kept or speeds low, which was just as well for me because the scenery got really good and my camera was finally getting a workout. We regrouped at the Rusty Anchor for a break and spectacular views. The west side of the trail was looking very promising indeed. We bumped into a couple from Ohio who we played cat & mouse with as they made many of the same photo stops we did which was great as they took a few of our group shots. It was here Scott noticed his rear tire picked-up a new friend in the form of a drywall screw. Luckily it was sealed with no pressure loss so the decision was to just keep an eye on it. The following 20-30 miles of the trail heading south towards our evening destination of Inverness were interrupted by about a dozen fantastic photo stops. After another 20-30 miles of coastal towns and rolling farms we pulled into the Inverness Lodge and caught a beautiful sunset over the ocean just behind the lodge. Unknown to us, Inverness was a coal-mining town where the coal was mined right at the beach. That evening we dined at the Hoff Pub & Grill (not very well marked) and watched Rich consume a 2-steak dinner, two complete steak dinners!
Scott’s Thoughts – That cloud looks nasty, oh good we’re stopping, this rain gear is a pain in the butt. After we got going, I was glad I had it on though. Then it was seriously windy, I wish I had more fairing and it was still buzzy on the highway. When we finally got into National Park in Ingonish we went past a golf course I played when I was 11 or 12. As expected some of the twisties next to the cliffs were impressive – loads of pretty scenery and the roads were in generally good shape. It disappointing to find the screw sticking out of the rear tire at the stretch break but it was holding air. I was working the electrics hard with the cold, wind and dampness but I was comfortable. At, dinner I tried to convince Bill that it didn’t actually get to absolute zero but he still had to ask. At least we did get poutine and pictures of food fulfilling two more trip requirements.
 
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bcityroller

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DAY 4: Saturday 9/26/09

Doug decided to break away from the group and ride to PEI via the ferry and come back via the 8-mile bridge to eventually meet-up with us in St. John that evening. Doug hit the same in and out of showers with rainbows out of Inverness we did and got to the 10:30 am ferry in good time. Doug later told us he was greeted in PEI by a road of continuous yard sales and slow going but later diverted to beautiful back roads through farmlands very reminiscent of VT and a north side harbor so full of buoys you could walk across the bay on them. The rest of us got underway a bit later after having a great breakfast at the Coal Miner’s Café. We super-slabbed west to New Glasgow to rt. 6 along the Northumberland Straight where the weather got better and better ‘til there wasn’t a cloud in the sky. Although fairly flat, the ride was very relaxing with ocean side farms and marsh along the way and a clear view of PEI off our right side. Jack and I were over flown by a bald eagle a treetop level, which I considered good luck because shortly down the road a jet-black cat crossed the road in front of me (that cancels out right?). We stopped for lunch at Big Al’s in Tatamagouche before pressing on towards Amherst. We crossed the land bridge into New Brunswick super slabbing to Moncton after stopping for gas and coffee. From Moncton we picked up rt. 114 that hugged the Fundy coast towards Hopewell Rocks. We got in to see the rocks for free but didn’t have enough time to get down to the sea level. In any event the 40 minutes of walking was a welcome break. Continuing south on 114 we entered the Fundy National park, which was a beautiful ride, but unfortunately we were going directly into the setting sun and about 5 miles of its roads were torn-up. Exiting the park we went through more rolling hills and farms with the bay opening up on our left with a magnificent red color in the water. We timed getting to the highway perfectly as it was getting dark and slabbed it south on rt. 1 to St. John. We stopped at the first motel we saw off the highway, the Park Plaza (which was anything but). Doug met up with us shortly after as he was checking out down town St. John. That evening we dined at the Mediterranean. We had the most efficient waitress I ever saw and a less than so-so band playing behind a curtain. We were all pretty tired looking at a long ride home in the rain the next day and weren’t in the mood for music, at least I wasn’t.
Scott’s Thoughts – I still had air in the rear but it was a couple of pounds down so off to top off before setting out. The riding was same as Day 3 – windy, damp and cool – kept the electrics going strong again. Off Cape Breton, we toughed out the stretch of highway and then finally off onto Rt. 6 at Pictou. A lot of the stretch from Pictou to Amherst was woods but there were a couple of nice views. I hadn’t done that whole stretch before but had been in a lot of the individual towns when I was a kid – to play hockey or go to the beach or whatever. At lunch, Jack and I talked about doing an extra, unplanned scenic loop but first I turned too early, then I missed the actual start and it got bagged in the end. The highway to Moncton had some serious crosswinds at first but it went by fast enough. The GPS was totally hosed-up in Moncton and wanted me to drive straight into the river but I opted for the bridge instead – sometimes it would be easier to follow the signs. Depending on perspective, Hopewell Rocks was either a forced march or nice hike but it would have been better if we had time to get down to water level. We did manage to get the requisite dirt stretch in Fundy National Park – it was mostly hard packed and I didn’t mind. Just as we stopped to wait for Rich and Tony before hitting the highway, Jack informed me that my taillight was out – great, just before dark and no I didn’t bring a spare. Tried to find a taillight at the gas stops on the way back from dinner but no luck – fortunately Tony was prepared and bailed me out. The Park Plaza was the sketchiest place we stayed in my opinion – just border line ok.


Day 5: Sunday 9/27/09

Forecast was for rain arriving in Portland ME by 11am so we attempted to leave by 7 am but Scott’s rear tire was low (it was really talking to us saying “plug me now stupid!” but we didn’t listen). The motel guy told us there were no tolls leaving St. John but there was so either he doesn’t get out very often or didn’t come from the area. In any event we pressed onward to Calais where Scott’s tire was nice enough to remind him it was time to pull over before things got ugly. The screw had worked its way out and it was time to plug the tire (Scott you were lucky) so the pit crew got to work. We got to the border without any issues at customs if you don’t count Scott’s battery dying. After jump-starting (pit crew in action again) we pulled over for breakfast with free coffee at Mickey D’s. We proceeded on Airline road (rt. 9) with some passing excitement brought to you by Rich and his Blackbird (wait your turn to pass Rich!). We didn’t get very far when the showers started so it was time to dawn the wetsuits (Tony, hurry up already). BTW, does anybody know why it’s called Airline road? Along the way Bill HAD to stop at one of the only gas stations on the planet where you couldn’t pay at the pump, very painful! In Bangor, the rain picked up on 95S and we soon learned how difficult it is to keep 6 bikes together safely in the rain in moderate traffic. We stopped in Augusta for fuel, gas and lunch at Margarita’s before heading homeward. We made a good decision NOT to try to stay together the rest of the way as the rain made it tough going and Doug wanted to take frequent stretch breaks. We left in two groups of three then broke-off individually as we made our separate ways home.
Scott’s Thoughts – The rear was a few pounds down, not so good but I just wanted to make it home. No luck getting air at the gas stations, and one attempt even cost me a couple of more pounds – WTF. Probably should have plugged it then but just put air in with Jack’s help and his “pack-small” compressor. I knew I remembered a toll around St. John – thanks a bunch hotel guy. As I was going up one of the hills, it suddenly got really hard to hold speed and about that time Bill was pulling up and pointing at the rear. By the time I got it over to the side – it was flat – the screw was long gone, leaving a hole. Tony and Jack were at work plugging and filling before I ever got all my gear off and not too long later we were off again. No more incidents until the FZ6 didn’t start at the customs booth, to which the agent replied – “That don’t sound good”. I Flintstoned it out of the booth and theorized that my electrics on full finally drained the battery even with all the high rpm riding. Unplugged my dual headlight, took some help to push start it and we were off and going again. The ultra slow minivan approaching Brewer was a killer with no places to pass. It was good to finally stop for gas/lunch after all that riding in the rain. I was surprised to find out I was pushing the pace – guess that’s what happens when you only have this one trip’s experience in the rain.


In summary, I completely understand what all the hype was regarding the Cabot Trail. It is truly a beautiful place but better than the destination was the journey with friends who share a common passion and know how to laugh at themselves. Personally I couldn’t imagine making a trip like this solo.
Scott’s Thoughts – Great trip, great group and glad to be part of it. I now know I need to add a few things to my packing list but fortunately someone else had everything I needed this time around. My rain gear works - my boots were so wet from Sun that they’re drying out 3 days later but my feet were dry as was the rest of me. The FZ6 felt a little overmatched at times, not that it couldn’t do what was required but it wasn’t really comfortable while it was doing it. That said I’d do it all over again next week if I could.

And the photos:
Picasa Web Albums - Scott - Cabot Trail R...



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zmeiaspas

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Awesome report and photos Tony. Thanks for sharing!!! It was a true pleasure reading your account and viewing the pics ... i can only imagine what the real experience felt like. I'm not gonna lie - I'm jealous :iconbeer:
 

FZ1inNH

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Wow! Quite a trip!

I KNOW I saw the other group of three on the 27th in Maine on I95 south. I was in Old Town, just above Bangor, and headed back to NH when I saw three big bikes after Portland and now I know who it was... I recognize the bikes, the helmets and the raingear. :D

Thanks for the photos and the ride report! Well done!
 

bcityroller

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Wow! Quite a trip!

I KNOW I saw the other group of three on the 27th in Maine on I95 south. I was in Old Town, just above Bangor, and headed back to NH when I saw three big bikes after Portland and now I know who it was... I recognize the bikes, the helmets and the raingear. :D

Thanks for the photos and the ride report! Well done!

It was an adventure - makes sitting at the desk all week seem pretty boring.

Yes, it definitely must of been them you saw - I think only saw one other bike (an ST1300) on 95S that Sunday. As indicated we had split up after lunch in Augusta and two of us just beat it back with no more stops while those guys stopped another 3 times or something.
 

bcityroller

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Cabot Trail is the nicest most scenic ride in NORTH AMERICA.

My only dream is to go back, and rent a motorcycle next time. its awe inspiring

Not to sell short NS, the Cabot Trail or the great time I had - I few of my co-riders had ridden around the Gaspe peninsula 3 years ago and they all claimed it was even better than the Cabot Trail due to sustained views and coast hugging roads compared with the more "in/out of the woods interspersed with fantastic views" of the Cabot. No first hand experience myself but sounds like it would be worth trying out.
 
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