Brake light stuck on

zdrinkwine70

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During mid season I noticed my brake light was stuck on. The first thing I did was disconnect the front switch and used the back brake to see if it was the front switch and via versa for the back, nothing. The brake light continued to stay on. I just purchase a new taillight and i plugged it in and it did the exact same thing where the brake light was stuck on. I looked at the fuse for the lallighr and it was fine but that would more likely mean the taillight isn’t working at all. Does anybody have any ideas of what may be going on? Leave any ideas or comments. Very much appreciated!!
 

bigborer

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With the key rotated to "OFF" check the continuity of all the connectors from the brake light to the battery ground (one connector at a time).
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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You may be looking at the RUNNING LIGHT and the BRAKE LIGHT FILIMENT BULB is broke / burnt.

Try another bulb, likely your issue. Your fuse being intact also indicates a bad bulb..(it only goes in ONE WAY- with the offset pins)


BTW, with the rear bulb removed, you should be able to see if the two filaments are intact.

Un-like automotive bulbs, the Yamaha tail light actually has a "bridge" (3 supports) for that filament(less likely to fail due to vibration).
The Yamaha bulb isn't much more $ than an automotive bulb...


Should that NOT be the cause, the tail light wiring is under the left side "pod". Check the connections..
 
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zdrinkwine70

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You may be looking at the RUNNING LIGHT and the BRAKE LIGHT FILIMENT BULB is broke / burnt.

Try another bulb, likely your issue. Your fuse being intact also indicates a bad bulb..(it only goes in ONE WAY- with the offset pins)


BTW, with the rear bulb removed, you should be able to see if the two filaments are intact.

Un-like automotive bulbs, the Yamaha tail light actually has a "bridge" (3 supports) for that filament(less likely to fail due to vibration).
The Yamaha bulb isn't much more $ than an automotive bulb...


Should that NOT be the cause, the tail light wiring is under the left side "pod". Check the connections..




The taillight is brand new!! Just came out of the box! It did it with the old taillight and I thought a new taillight would fix the issue but it didn’t. I kinda think I narrowed it down to being in the wiring harness where a wire is not connected or something because unplugging the switches doesn’t do anything. I will definitely do the continuity test on the connections.
 

Motogiro

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There are 2 filaments in the lamp. One for the running light that lights when you turn the key to the on position and one for the brake that is active when one of the 2 brakes are applied. If you've replaced the the lamp with a standard automotive lamp it is probably the generic 1157 type lamp.

Now this might sound funny but. Does your horn work? The horn and brake light share the same fuse. If the horn doesn't work (because of blown fuse) the brake light filament will not light. When you turn on the key you might be seeing the running light filament. Check your horn and if it's not working, go to your fuse box and look for a blown fuse. If you find the blown fuse you want to find out why it blew because fuses don't wear out.

So the reason your brake light won't go out is possibly because it may not be the brake light you're seeing lit, but instead the running light filament in the lamp. Remember there are 2 filaments. My guess is you don't have an active brake light because the fuse is possibly blown. :)
 
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zdrinkwine70

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Easy with the comments. I didn’t just leave you I didn’t set this thread to receive email notifications on my phone. I apologize. After sitting and trying just about everything that I could think of I opened the tank one more time and so two connectors a clear one which I though was the brake light switch for the rear and the other was a brown connector which I didn’t know what it was at the time. I told myself that it couldn’t hurt to unplug the connector and see what happened and I did and it turned the brake light off, so I able to just see my parking light. IT WAS MY READ BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH THE ENTIRE TIME!! I was unplugging the wrong connector for the brake light switch. I feel prettt stupid because I was very confident that I followed the right wire up to the connector. Thank you everyone for responding very quickly and giving me feedback, but this time it was pure stupidity on my part.
 

Motogiro

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Bet it was a bulb or fuse and of course, we won't get a response / what the fix was or he would have been back...

*Isn't it an un-written "internet etiquette" to leave a final answer after getting recommendations??

Sometimes you are traveling at the speed of life and don't have time to tag all the bases. Member may not have had time to get to it yet.

I have a 98 4Runner that has a bad/intermittent starter plunger. Crawled under to see what I need to do to extricate it and I see there's been oil seeping. Valve cover needed snugging up after 21 years! Old Toyotas! It's a 2.7 L 4 cylinder. Had to remove partial intake assembly and loom assembly to get to all the bolts. Found a problem with wires coming out of the loom and repaired that on the way. Today I may get to the starter after I go to the car wash and get all that oil blasted off.
My point....We can really get sidetracked! Lol!
 

zdrinkwine70

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Yes!! My mind was going a million miles an hour because it was 55 and sunny and I just wanted to go riding within the next week and I wasn’t sitting down and just concentrating and retracing my steps seeing what the issue could be. Does anybody know if you can fix a brake light switch or would you recommend buying a new one or used off of eBay?
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Yes!! My mind was going a million miles an hour because it was 55 and sunny and I just wanted to go riding within the next week and I wasn’t sitting down and just concentrating and retracing my steps seeing what the issue could be. Does anybody know if you can fix a brake light switch or would you recommend buying a new one or used off of eBay?

I don't believe it'll come apart without destroying it however squirting some spray lubricant (liquid wrench, etc) in it may loosen up the "insides" and allow it to disconnect.

**You do have to make sure the adjuster itself ISN'T TOO TIGHT**(holding the switch in the ON position)..

It's kinda rare that switch fails. There's not much to em..
 

zdrinkwine70

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Gotcha!! I’ll have to remove my rear sets so I can get a better look and be able to tinker around with it and see if that allows the switch to work again. Thank you for the response!!
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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You should be able to turn the plastic nut by hand that's stop the rear brake switch.

You want to adjust the switch so it goes CLOSER /down, in the direction of where the brake pedal is...

Should be a small spring there as well that simply stretches out when the switch is "maxed" out..


**I suspect the switch isn't broke, just adjusted a tad too tight...**
 

Motogiro

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You should be able to turn the plastic nut by hand that's stop the rear brake switch.

You want to adjust the switch so it goes CLOSER /down, in the direction of where the brake pedal is...

Should be a small spring there as well that simply stretches out when the switch is "maxed" out..


**I suspect the switch isn't broke, just adjusted a tad too tight...**
I didn't dislike this post... I hit the wrong icon.:spank:
 
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