Caliper seals

adamyorkie

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Hi all

I am replacing my caliper seals due to a bit of drag I can't rid off. Unbelievably expensive!! They have come with a little pink sachet that looks like a lube type substance. I would normally just put a bit of grease on them but is that what the pink sachet is for instead??

Thanks
Adam
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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The pink stuff is BRAKE SPECIFIC GREASE. (got a half dozen of them in the cabinet)

The Yamaha shop manual calls for ONLY brake fluid on the seals, NO mention of grease on the seals.

I assembled using no grease and with grease. (on my FZ 2x, my old FJR once)


IME, don't use the grease on the seals(or if you do, very little). It just tends to attract dirt later.

Use it on the slider pin, if you have a floating caliper, use it in the rubber boot/mounting bolt.


It won't hurt anything greasing the seals, BUT, with the new seals being FLEXIBLE (vs the old and hardened seals), just the brake fluid will be fine as the seals themselves pull the pistons back in.

You'll notice a major difference in MUCH lesser brake drag...



If you can order on-line in the future, it's about 2/3's the price. Those new seals you have should last at least 5 years.

I have about 4 years on my newish seals and still get over 4 FULL rotations by hand vs 1/2 rotation before new seals.. That's an S2 with twice as many seals as an S1 model too.
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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Thanks Scott

Mine is a s2 as well, hope this solution works!!


If the seals are older than 4 years or so, it'll make a BIG difference.

Yamaha suggests replacement EVERY TWO YEARS. In real life, I've found 4-5 years max...(and that 365 days a year riding)

It helps to have an air compressor for blowing the pistons out of the caliper as most will be very sticky..(blow into the orifice to each piston).


Please post how it comes out. Good luck!
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Its what I used but others have used like a "reverse pliers" to grab the piston from the inside..


Do a search here, I forgot, there was another way or two to remove the real sticky pistons. You just DON'T want to scratch them..



That and if you notice BEFORE loosing the hydraulics's, which ones are the stickiest, shim the others "IN" when you hydraulically pop the stiff one..
 

MattR302

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Thanks Scott air compressor is the issue any alternatives?

When I replaced them on my CBR last year, I unbolted one caliper, put a piece of maybe 1/2" or 3/8" plywood between the pistons, and pumped the brake lever. Make sure they're coming out equally - if one side is sticking, hold the wood against the piston on the other side to get the sticking one to extend. Get all 4 pistons about the same extended, then use some way to keep the plywood between pistons on that caliper (tape/ziptie/whatever) then do the same for the other caliper. You should be able to remove the pistons by hand - if not, use a thinner piece of plywood and pump the pistons out a little further.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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When I replaced them on my CBR last year, I unbolted one caliper, put a piece of maybe 1/2" or 3/8" plywood between the pistons, and pumped the brake lever. Make sure they're coming out equally - if one side is sticking, hold the wood against the piston on the other side to get the sticking one to extend. Get all 4 pistons about the same extended, then use some way to keep the plywood between pistons on that caliper (tape/ziptie/whatever) then do the same for the other caliper. You should be able to remove the pistons by hand - if not, use a thinner piece of plywood and pump the pistons out a little further.

The only thing I found with the FZ, to fully remove one piston, the opposite one HAS TO BE at least half ways in. Its a great idea if there's room.
 

FinalImpact

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+1 ^^
I did the same thing using old brake pads. One caliper at a time and pump out an opposing pair, clean them. Push them back working them free. Could have pulled them out by hand once at the limit. Also, Zip Tie the lever down and it allows you to push on pair to get them free so you can manipulate one piston at a time as the set is hydraulically locked once the lever seals the port to the reservoir shut.
IMG_20140622_161653_423.jpg IMG_20140622_161356_691.jpg


90° angled External Pliers and some "Snap Ring Pliers" can be used to grip the pistons from the inside.
Images -->> External Snap Ring Pliers

Images -->> 90° Pliars
 
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