Laurence243

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I have a quiet but noticeable "Yamatick" that happens consistently around 3800 and 4200-4500 RPMs. The bike is an 08 with about 7k miles. Everything I've read points to it being the CCT.

I wanted to start a thread to clarify a couple things. First, is it possible to remove and oil the CCT (or replace with manual) without removing the timing cover?

Second, is this process correct:

Remove timing chain cover

Zip tie the chain so it stays tight

Remove CCT, rotate the crank clockwise a few turns to get it to disengage from the chain guide (???)

Place new CCT

Rotate the crank clockwise to get it to set into the chain guide (???)

Replace timing chain cover with new gasket and sealant

Any help is appreciated
 

FinalImpact

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Grab a long wooden stick or even a very long screw driver and touch it to suspect areas while holding the other end to your ear and listen inside the engine. Upon request I just posted an audio clip of my 08 making noise before valve lash adjustment to remove excessive clearance between the cam and valves. The bike has tapped since I bought it w/4000 miles. It has 21,000 on it now 4 years later and its an 08.

IMO - chains don't tick or tap and I don't see the CCT making a lot of noise unless it loose and the chain is slapping it from a rough idle.
- Listen to the drive chain. It just doesn't make a sound like that. When chains saw through metal, they make cool sounds but still no ticking....
- In the audio, listen to the sound of the engine. Not the exhaust. Listen for the Tap Tap Tap sounds....

Audio is on soundcloud.... Taken on 2014-04. Taps can easily be heard in the first 12 seconds and from 40 - 48 seconds. Total is 48 seconds Cam lash taps (before)...

Sounds of bike being ridden post # 5 and post # 24 here! Last one - SoundCloud MP3 Audio 2014-11
 

Laurence243

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That sounds a lot like the ticking sound from my bike. Is this something a decent mechanic can DIY?

I'll try to do some more investigation tomorrow. I've heard CCTs can chatter like that from a lot of people, and I know the PO let the bike sit all winter so it could have lost its oil.
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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That sounds a lot like the ticking sound from my bike. Is this something a decent mechanic can DIY?

I'll try to do some more investigation tomorrow. I've heard CCTs can chatter like that from a lot of people, and I know the PO let the bike sit all winter so it could have lost its oil.

I agree with Randy, its more likely valve shim adjustment.. And yes, if you half a decent wrench, there's numerous threads here about checking(much easier than adjusting)/ adjusting them(requires pulling cam(s), replacing shims, etc).

NOTE, In the Yamaha shop manual, it IS INCORRECTLY stated to turn the crankshaft BACKWARDS. It must always be cranked forward, CLOCKWISE.

You can pull the CCT and oil/check it for smooth operation. Zip tying the cam chain guarantees the chain won't slip a tooth off the crank when the CCT is out.

Depending on the mileage, etc, its your decision. IMO, I'd pop for a new gasket and zip tie the chain so you DEFINITLY don't introduce NEW issues (a skipped tooth, cam chain).
 

iSteve

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With just 7k miles I'm guessing you are just hearing normal engine noises.

And just removing a tensioner and putting it back in, should not need you to take the cover off and zip-tie your chain. The chain is not going to jump teeth just by sitting without a tensioner.

Yamaha engines are very reliable, hard working and well made. I know you read plenty of threads about people doing CCT's because they hear a tic but in reality if you had a bad CCT you and everyone around you would know.
 

FinalImpact

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Somewhere in this wonderful forum I posted a video of cage getting a valve adjustment. It was was very clear about Tick vs Tap... Found lots of other stuff, but not the video. ((much looking - I concede; it cannot be found)) :(

IMO - it matters not where the crank is, pull the tensioner, inspect it and put it back if its OK. Unless bad luck follows you everywhere every day, you should be fine w/out taking more apart. But, to error on the side of caution, you can tie the chain but you have to create slack to do this (turn the crank), so I wouldn't bother. HOWEVER -
IF YOU TURN THE CRANK WHILE THE CCT DEVICE IS OUT, THAT WOULD BE A BAAAAAAD IDEA! And then you can jump teeth!

Notice here there is not much room for tying anything but around the guides themselves which will help but its not nescessary. I've had this cover off 6 times and the chain is alway taunt.
IMG_20140802_174641_023_zps19c1e2b4.jpg



Manual tensioner adjust <<-- some nice light reading!

A post from 2011 -

A rough idle will be noisy! Why? Chains are meant to be pulled, not pushed as they don't push! So, if the crank is not holding a steady RPM it is up the chain tensioner to eliminate those pulses being delivered to the cam. So the chain is going rattle and touch the guides inconsistently during rough idles. This will make noise that varies as you indicated!

Having said that, a tune up may be a good starting point also. Run a tank of fuel injector cleaner through it, then replace the plugs and synchronize the carbs. Well unless you're up for checking the valve clearance yourself?

Tic Vs Tap:
Fuel injectors tic. Loose valves having excessive lash, free play, clearance etc. tap. So, get a stethoscope in there and listen. Most people will never here an injector Tic over all the noise the valves, headers, and exhaust make. Unlike a car, there is no sound deadening on these exposed engines.

Because its quiet when cold I'd venture to guess that valve adjustment is the issue. As soon as the oil has some temp it no longer cushions the noise and you hear the audible tap of excessive valve lash.
 

fazil

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I changed CCT last weekend without any issue. No need to take out the lower case. Bike was on the centerstand, gear was in neutral, took me an hour to put the tensioner back.
 

Laurence243

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It doesn't seem to matter if it's warm or cold, and I noticed I only hear the sound when the engine is under load. Doesn't happen in neutral

Also the sound seemed to disappear completely when I rode with the drive chain soaked in kerosene based cleaner when I cleaned it, came back after drying and oiling
 
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FinalImpact

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Im pleased as could be that taking up the lash and getting all the valves in spec took care of the tics i had. Kinda wished id done it sooner now! Oh well! Its done and its quiet!

Mind you it was ticking with 4000 miles on it. So, it needed back then 4 years and 17000 miles ago...

Just because the maintenance interval says 2X,XXX miles , doesn't mean you have to wait till then.
 

FinalImpact

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I changed CCT last weekend without any issue. No need to take out the lower case. Bike was on the centerstand, gear was in neutral, took me an hour to put the tensioner back.

Why an hr? Granted that bottom bolt is a PITA but i just removed the two bolts in the clutch cable and it was pretty easy. Just screw it CCW while getting the bolts started and run them in. Admittedly i had to back it off about 3 times but overall, easy to do an no need to pull the cover.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Just screw it CCW while getting the bolts started and run them in.

+1 ^^^.

If you get the tensioner in the block and turn the center, main tension screw clockwise, the unit should move closer to the block.

As it does so, by hand, or gently with a socket, tighten both mounting bolts to take up the gap. You do NOT want to tighten beyond the freeplay until its FULLY SEATED...


**BTW, a new unit has a plastic pull tab that sticks out slightly and literally holds the springed extension arm in (until fully installed, then its released and the arm pops out).

If you can duplicate that plastic tab(thin plastic bottle, etc, trimmed way down) and install it in the unit(while on the bench) and fully retracted, the old CCT will drop in without all the fuss..
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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It doesn't seem to matter if it's warm or cold, and I noticed I only hear the sound when the engine is under load. Doesn't happen in neutral

Also the sound seemed to disappear completely when I rode with the drive chain soaked in kerosene based cleaner when I cleaned it, came back after drying and oiling

The issue is with your drive chain per your above post. :thumbup:

Its ONLY while underway, in gear, with a load on it. Sitting in neutral, no chain movement(no load)-NO NOISE.

Even thou the bike has low miles, if the chain was neglected, not cleaned/lubed often enough, it'll make all kinds of noises, vibs, etc. You also want to check it closely as it comes off the front sprocket for any binding, links, NOT STRAIGHTENING OUT.

Just your cleaning/re-lubing has verified that's YOUR issue as the sound went away. You don't need to pull the CCT, check valves, etc...

The drive chain is about the biggest maintainance item that you can not ignore. The correct tension (2" up and down TOTAL, on the CC at the tightest point) is also critical. It's considerably looser than most bikes BUT does tighten up once on the ground with weight/load on the bike...
 
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FinalImpact

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The issue is with your drive chain per your above post. :thumbup:

Its ONLY while underway, in gear, with a load on it. Sitting in neutral, no chain movement(no load)-NO NOISE.

Even thou the bike has low miles, if the chain was neglected, not cleaned/lubed often enough, it'll make all kinds of noises, vibs, etc. You also want to check it closely as it comes off the front sprocket for any binding, links, NOT STRAIGHTENING OUT.

Just your cleaning/re-lubing has verified that's YOUR issue as the sound went away. You don't need to pull the CCT, check valves, etc...

The drive chain is about the biggest maintainance item that you can not ignore. The correct tension (2" up and down TOTAL, on the CC at the tightest point) is also critical. It co nsiderably looser than most bikes BUT does tighten up once on the ground with weight/load on the bike...


2 votes says your primary issue is the drive chain. FWIW: all chain lubes ARE NOT equal!

This is JM2C but this thin film dry Teflon coatings are NOT CUTTING IT when it comes to really reducing vibes (THINK WEAR, PRESSURE, CONTACT), and I've gone back to actual liquid!

Try this stuff - apply with a small tip blunt needle syringe --> DUMONDE Tech, BHP Chain Lubrication & O-Ring Conditioner

It took away a layer of vibes and gave what seemed like free horse power! bike is Much smoother it goes roughly 450 to 500 miles before needing more. In excess - it makes a MESS! A big one! But it Works and that's important to me!
 

fazil

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*BTW, a new unit has a plastic pull tab that sticks out slightly and literally holds the springed extension arm in (until fully installed, then its released and the arm pops out).

Thanks for the info Scott, i didn't know that. I thougt yamaha has a special screw driver for holding the spring tensioned. I used normal screw driver and it was hard to put it in it's place. After 7-8 tries i made it.
 

VEGASRIDER

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PM or text me, give me a chance to hear the ticking to see if it was the same ticking sound that I had with my bike. Surprised to hear that there is a ticking sound at 7000 miles. Mine started around with over 60k miles.
 

FinalImpact

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Would it be dangerous to run the bike in gear with it on the center stand to see if I can hear it?

What are you using for chain lube?
Personally I've only found 2 products that went 450 miles. What is your interval and some details about cleaning maintenance???

Although the drive chain may be making some noise it should be pretty easy to tell the difference from engine speed vs vehicle speed (thread Name: CCT).

I would advise against center stand testing. If you must, perhaps some idling. If you see links not straighten out, chain needs ton of lube or Replaced!
Also while riding tilt your left knee out. WAY out and then your right. What do you hear? When the left is out and you hear the chain its dry and needs help!
 

Laurence243

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I've only cleaned it once and honestly it could be a lot cleaner. Been using bel Ray chain lube.

I'll listen with one knee out then the other when I ride home tonight, good idea
 

FinalImpact

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From another thread and likely in the owners manual!


Drive chain slack:
45.0–55.0 mm (1.77–2.17 in)

Improper drive chain slack will overload the engine as well as other vital parts of the motorcycle and can lead to chain slippage or breakage. To prevent this from occurring, keep the drive chain slack within the specified limits.

Maintenance Interval:
Every 500 mi (800 km) and after washing the motorcycle or riding in the rain!!!!

Cleaning and lubricating the drive chain:
The drive chain must be cleaned and lubricated at the intervals specified in the periodic maintenance and lubrication chart, otherwise it will quickly wear out, especially when riding in dusty or wet areas. Service the drive chain as follows.

Wear and Damage:
The drive chain must be lubricated after washing the motorcycle and riding in the rain.
  • Clean the drive chain with kerosene and a small soft brush. To prevent damaging the O-rings, do not clean the drive chain with steam cleaners, high-pressure washers or inappropriate solvents.
  • Wipe the drive chain dry.
  • Thoroughly lubricate the drive chain with a special O-ring chain lubricant.
 
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