Chain Cleaning

[damnpoor]

On the original topic of cleaning ... can we use citrus degreasers found in bicycle shops? I have a ton of Finish Line citrus degreaser for my racing bicycle. I know the chain types are different, the bicycle has no o-rings, but has anyone ever used or know about using it?

 

[[email protected]]

I don't know why the service manual indicates that you shouldn't use an o-ring chain lube. (page 4-73)

3. Clean:

drive chain
a. Wipe the drive chain with a clean cloth.
b. Put the drive chain in kerosene and remove
any remaining dirt.
c. Remove the drive chain from the kerosene
and completely dry it.

"Recommended lubricant
Engine oil or chain lubricant
suitable for non-O-ring chains"

some ideas?

 

[Raid The Revenge]

I have a religious and sacred ritual for cleaning and lubing a motorcycle chain, in 14 EASY STEPS!!:

1) Go to the dustiest, dirtiest and rustiest motorcycle store you can find.
2) Find a dented, old, torn-labelled can of either MOTORCYCLE CHAIN CLEANER or WD-40.
3) Buy an even nastier-looking can of CHAIN LUBE for O-Ring chains. The cheaper, the better.

Now setup your motorcycle so that it's on a center stand or whatever, with NO KEY in the ignition. You can move the kickstand out of the way from your chain.

4) Wear a pair of rubber gloves, or cover your chain-grabbing hand with a plastic bag and an elastic band.

5) Take your CHAIN CLEANER and spray-down little segments of the chain, while immediately wiping it down hardcore with a rag/paper towel on your baghand. IF YOU USE WD-40, DO NOT SPRAY THE CHAIN DIRECTLY, BUT PUT IT ON THE RAG FIRST INSTEAD.

6) Once you've finished one lap of the chain, CLEAN IT AGAIN! (WHIP CRACK!)

7) If you don't wipe-up the cleaner right after application, you'll get a chocolate sprocket.

8) WAIT 3-5 minutes. You can scare people away with your black and nasty BAGHAND.

9) Take a seperate rag and apply the CHAIN LUBE the same way, spraying the INSIDE RUN of the chain (the side that goes into the teeth of the sprocket) and immediately wipe away as you go.

10) Once you've done the entire chain this way, DO IT AGAIN! (Like the slave you are!)

11) BE LIBERAL with your lube, BUT WIPE IT AWAY RIGHT AFTER applying each segment. I like to wrap the rag around the chain, take a strong grip and SLIDE!

12) For the final touch, coat a THIN LAYER OF CHAIN LUBE on the inside run and sides of the chain. DO NOT WIPE THIS LAYER OFF.

13) Take your nasty-ass baghand and turn it inside out, so the crap is on the inside of the bag and put your fowl rags and garbage in it.

14) Wait 10 minutes and you're done.

 

[BranNwebster]

I don't know why the service manual indicates that you shouldn't use an o-ring chain lube. (page 4-73)

3. Clean:

drive chain
a. Wipe the drive chain with a clean cloth.
b. Put the drive chain in kerosene and remove
any remaining dirt.
c. Remove the drive chain from the kerosene
and completely dry it.

"Recommended lubricant
Engine oil or chain lubricant
suitable for non-O-ring chains"

some ideas?

I'm not sure which manual your looking at but here is a page from the official one.

 

[BranNwebster]

I use Dawn liquid soap and a fingernail brush, works great.

 

[[email protected]]

This is the version of the manual I have. As you can see, the recommended is oil for non-oring. I think it could be a mistake. Could you send me the manual you have to compare?

 

[BranNwebster]

I downloaded it from this site. its in a thread somewhere

 

[raja777m]

Totally 100% up to you. It is your bike and your body.
Think for a second about this though. 70 mph leaned over, accelerating hard to pull around a good corner. Snap, whap whap, and then it locks the rear solid. After that nothing but bad news can come.

In addition to preventing premature wear, it gives a oppertunity to inspect, and adjust it on a set interval. It might be something to consider.

something like this?
https://youtu.be/xBZWjwHgveY