Cluster shows Hi and bike does not start

[pantone]

Hi everyone in this forum,

My bike has a problem. It won’t start and the only syndrome is the cluster shows “Hi”( coolant temperature). I had checked the resistance of the coolant temperature sensor and it is within the spec. I had tried to entered the diag mode, but I can not. I do not know why.

Had anyone encountered the same problem and how to solve.

Thanks in advance for your kind opinion.

 

[Motogiro]

Hi Peter,

I don't remember anyone having this problem. Always check terminals at the battery and you should have 12 volts or higher at the battery when you turn the key on. I would lift the tank and give a visual inspection of the wires to insure a rodent has not chewed wiring, Inspect the plug at the ECU/ECM to make sure it is clean and free of oxidation.

Is this a new issue and has the bike been in storage? Inspect the wiring at the ignition switch area to see if any wires have been cut.

 

[pantone]

Hi Peter,

I don't remember anyone having this problem. Always check terminals at the battery and you should have 12 volts or higher at the battery when you turn the key on. I would lift the tank and give a visual inspection of the wires to insure a rodent has not chewed wiring, Inspect the plug at the ECU/ECM to make sure it is clean and free of oxidation.

Is this a new issue and has the bike been in storage? Inspect the wiring at the ignition switch area to see if any wires have been cut.

Hi Motogiro,

Thanks for your valued advice. The syndrome appears one or two time before, but it is soon cleared after I restart the ignition switch. But this time it’s permanent. My ignition switch had been hard to turned and start, my mechanic had put some WD40 into the switch key hole to solve this problem, he said the contacts of the switch will not be influenced by this action, this is done just one day before I have the permanent “Hi” problem.

I will check the ignition wires first to see any wire been contaminated.

BR

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Does it "spin over" but just not start?

Does the fuel pump prime when the key is turned on?

Does the dash light up, tachometer "sweep" with the key turned on?

* Just the ignition switch sticking leads me to believe that's likely your issue. WD40 won't hurt anything but it's not a lubricant nor a contact cleaner.
It's very possible the ignition switch is worn out in any event, it should NOT hang up.

 

[pantone]

Does it "spin over" but just not start?

Does the fuel pump prime when the key is turned on?

Does the dash light up, tachometer "sweep" with the key turned on?

* Just the ignition switch sticking leads me to believe that's likely your issue. WD40 won't hurt anything but it's not a lubricant nor a contact cleaner.
It's very possible the ignition switch is worn out in any event, it should NOT hang up.

Hi TownsendsFJR1300,

Thanks for your comments.

I just note clearly the engine does not spin anyway. Because the gas tank now is removed and yet mounted back, I will check the others after the tank is in place.

And later I found the ignition switch is not worn out, it is the key I used worn out because when I use the backup key, it is easy to turn the ignition switch.

 

[pantone]

Does it "spin over" but just not start?

Does the fuel pump prime when the key is turned on?

Does the dash light up, tachometer "sweep" with the key turned on?

* Just the ignition switch sticking leads me to believe that's likely your issue. WD40 won't hurt anything but it's not a lubricant nor a contact cleaner.
It's very possible the ignition switch is worn out in any event, it should NOT hang up.

I install the gas tank today then turn the key on, I found
1. Fuel pump does not prime
2. Dash light on, tach sweep
3. Still Hi temperature on dash
4. Engine spin but can’t run
5. Diag. mode still not accessible.

Any comment is appreciated.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

With no fuel pump up spin up (at first key on) is why it isn't starting (at least one reason).

Did you check fuses under the right side "POD"? (the part that sticks out just below the outside edge of the seat).

 

[pantone]

With no fuel pump up spin up (at first key on) is why it isn't starting (at least one reason).

Did you check fuses under the right side "POD"? (the part that sticks out just below the outside edge of the seat).

Yes, I will check this fuse as well as the starting circuit cut-off relay. As regards the Hi coolant temperature problem, I think I need to check the connection between the ECU and the cluster, I will report here if there is any good news.

 

[pantone]

Yes, I will check this fuse as well as the starting circuit cut-off relay. As regards the Hi coolant temperature problem, I think I need to check the connection between the ECU and the cluster, I will report here if there is any good news.

I thought my ECU has a problem. The fuse is OK and I had checked the “starting circuit cut-off relay” and found the control command line from the ECU is high(should be low to energize the relay). This the reason why my fuel pump can not prime. I also short-circuited intentionally the connector pin of the coolant temperature sensor, but the dashboard still showed “Hi” temperature. I thought the”Hi” temperature false alarm internally in ECU prevent the ECU from priming the fuel pump and injector.

Is there any mean to “initialize” or reset the ECU? I don’t see any sign of corrosion, water ingress, pin distortion of my ECU, or it is just a chance. But I always think YAMAHA manufactured motorcycles of good quality.

Any comment is highly appreciated.

 

[Motogiro]

I thought my ECU has a problem. The fuse is OK and I had checked the “starting circuit cut-off relay” and found the control command line from the ECU is high(should be low to energize the relay). This the reason why my fuel pump can not prime. I also short-circuited intentionally the connector pin of the coolant temperature sensor, but the dashboard still showed “Hi” temperature. I thought the”Hi” temperature false alarm internally in ECU prevent the ECU from priming the fuel pump and injector.

Is there any mean to “initialize” or reset the ECU? I don’t see any sign of corrosion, water ingress, pin distortion of my ECU, or it is just a chance. But I always think YAMAHA manufactured motorcycles of good quality.

Any comment is highly appreciated.

It could be the ECU is bad. Have you checked the lean angle sensor to see if it is active and in the correct position?

Sent from Moto's Motorola

 

[pantone]

It could be the ECU is bad. Have you checked the lean angle sensor to see if it is active and in the correct position?

Sent from Moto's Motorola

Hi Motogiro,

I had thought I might not have to keep posting on this forum if there is nobody interested on this issue, then you commented. I feel much embarassed because I made a big mistake. I use a key copied from my black key in a street keystone, there is no chip in it, so the bike can not start.

I just came across a article discussing about the red key and black key as I surfed on the internet to find anything about the faulted ECU. Then it came to my mind I had made a copy of key because the black key I use now is worn and I have only a backup new black key which I donÂ’t want to use. I also note an error code 51 on the dash when the key is turned on, which means it is an immobilizer problem.

I really forget the key had chip inside and you need to buy a black key with chip and go through some procedure with red key to have a copy. I was misleading to think this is a sensor problem then to an ECU problem. Maybe this is a problem for a DIYer. However, through this ridiculous investigation, I had removed a lot of stuff and studied the electric circuit of my bike, which will give confidence if there is any problem in the future.

 

[FinalImpact]

Glad you figured it out. Question; did the High Temp Light go off with the chipped key inserted? And you could possibly just have that key with the other above the switch and find success.

 

[pantone]

Of course, the Hi temperature is gone and the fuel pump can prime. Also I can enter the diag mode.

 

[Motogiro]

Hi Motogiro,

I had thought I might not have to keep posting on this forum if there is nobody interested on this issue, then you commented. I feel much embarassed because I made a big mistake. I use a key copied from my black key in a street keystone, there is no chip in it, so the bike can not start.

I just came across a article discussing about the red key and black key as I surfed on the internet to find anything about the faulted ECU. Then it came to my mind I had made a copy of key because the black key I use now is worn and I have only a backup new black key which I donÂ’t want to use. I also note an error code 51 on the dash when the key is turned on, which means it is an immobilizer problem.

I really forget the key had chip inside and you need to buy a black key with chip and go through some procedure with red key to have a copy. I was misleading to think this is a sensor problem then to an ECU problem. Maybe this is a problem for a DIYer. However, through this ridiculous investigation, I had removed a lot of stuff and studied the electric circuit of my bike, which will give confidence if there is any problem in the future.

Don't feel embarrassed! I never thought that this was an immobilizer issue. Now you have added to our experience and knowledge! Thank you for this information. I always forget there are a lot of non US bikes that have the immobilizer. I have very little experience with immobilizer problems and I don't think they fail very often. In fact, the only problems I remember in relation to them are when an ECU is changed or someone doesn't have the original red key and has lost their key.