Clutch is a pain in the wrist, and need new bar end mirrors - 2008 FZ6 naked conversion

jmocco33

New Member
Hey guys,
I am new to the forum. I just bought a 2008 FZ6 Fazer S2 from my uncle and converted it to a fully naked bike. Everything is great, except for the wrist pain after a day of city riding. I have a 2007 ninja 650 to compare to, and that clutch feels like warm butter in comparison.

I bought a Magura HYMEC hydraulic clutch cable replacement made specifically for my bike, part # 120689. Supposed to be a plug & play solution. I took it out of the box, and learned the clutch safety (two wire cable connected to ignition) is NOT plug & play at all. Rather than destroy the new Magura part by splicing it into the OEM clutch safety cable, I decided to wait and try alternative methods before installing.

I realized my clutch lever was at a very awkward angle, so I rotated it to feel more ergonomic for a pulling motion. This seemed to help, however it had been since November that I last rode the bike so it was pretty hard to tell. Once the weather cooled to below 60F, my wrist started to get numb again. Not sure if it was temperature tightening the clutch cable, or if it was the 3+ hours of riding in conjunction that finally caused it.

I researched the forums on here for similar issues and found many people have a tight clutch. Lubing should help, however I have also seen that lubing will not do anything if the cable is frayed, and I do not know how to determine this. Right now my options are to:
1) attempt lubing - it works - return the Magura part and save $250.
2) attempt lubing - it doesn't work - install the Magura part
3) screw the cable and install the Magura part
Any thoughts on what anyone else has done or what I should do would be greatly appreciated!


Also, I bought crappy amazon bar end mirrors, one of them broke the instant I hit highway speeds, and now I would like to get better quality ones. I would like ones that go up and in from the handlebar edge, however it seems no matter what I do I can only find mirrors that are nearly $100 each. I'm not rich, so it's hard to justify that cost...
 

Gary in NJ

Junior Member
Site Supporter
I don't find the clutch to be an issue on the FZ. Cables usually start to disintegrate at the exposed ends, so if you don't see any fraying, then you might not have a frayed cable. However, you may have a gummed-up cable from the wrong lube being used...or from lube never being used. I would suggest flushing the cable and using proper lube. To REALLY flush the cable, I suggest removing it from the bike and flushing it with WD-40 (which is a mild cleaner...not a lube), hitting the cable insert with some compressed air to make sure it's dry, and then lubing the cable.

Also, be sure to check that the bolt holding the lever isn't so tight that it has deformed the perch. With the cable removed the lever should flop around freely in the perch. I would lube the perch/lever intersection with some lithium grease.
 

turbodan

New Member
My previous FZ had the same issue. Clutch pull kind of sucked. Caused some wrist and tendon pain when riding with winter gloves on. Replacing the cable resolved the issue.

I have cleaned out cables before too. That's an option if you've got time to screw with it. Routing the cable on the FZ6 is a bit of a pain so I figure if you're going through the trouble you might as well replace it.

Last cable I cleaned out was the clutch cable on my 1974 DT360. That took several hours to break up and flush out the decades worth of who knows what. Didn't want to toss an otherwise perfectly good vintage part though.
 

jmocco33

New Member
Thanks for your input Gary and Dan - I called my motorsport place where I have a full inspection scheduled (since its new to me I figured I’d rather have pro’s look it over) and they informed me that a clutch lubing is part of the service I am scheduled for. If that doesn’t help my clutch pull, then I will need to install the Magura Hydraulic actuator and splice the safety wires. I’ll have time to return it if the lubing works out. I’ll attach some pics of my new baby so you can see. Thanks Again!
 

Attachments

jmocco33

New Member
I don't find the clutch to be an issue on the FZ. Cables usually start to disintegrate at the exposed ends, so if you don't see any fraying, then you might not have a frayed cable. However, you may have a gummed-up cable from the wrong lube being used...or from lube never being used. I would suggest flushing the cable and using proper lube. To REALLY flush the cable, I suggest removing it from the bike and flushing it with WD-40 (which is a mild cleaner...not a lube), hitting the cable insert with some compressed air to make sure it's dry, and then lubing the cable.

Also, be sure to check that the bolt holding the lever isn't so tight that it has deformed the perch. With the cable removed the lever should flop around freely in the perch. I would lube the perch/lever intersection with some lithium grease.
See separate response - thanks for your input!
 

jmocco33

New Member
My previous FZ had the same issue. Clutch pull kind of sucked. Caused some wrist and tendon pain when riding with winter gloves on. Replacing the cable resolved the issue.

I have cleaned out cables before too. That's an option if you've got time to screw with it. Routing the cable on the FZ6 is a bit of a pain so I figure if you're going through the trouble you might as well replace it.

Last cable I cleaned out was the clutch cable on my 1974 DT360. That took several hours to break up and flush out the decades worth of who knows what. Didn't want to toss an otherwise perfectly good vintage part though.
See separate response - thanks for your input!
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
As noted above, the clutch pull normally is not an issue with a good cable, lubed properly..

My clutch cable failed with about 25,000 miles on it (always lubed/maintained) and the failure was inside the outer housing(not visible until cut open).

I was able to FEEL some "roughness" with both ends of the cable disconnected and just pulling it back and forth.. Pic's below are of the cable cut open.

Also, to lighten the pull, Yamaha part #1WS-16340-00 is a slightly longer clutch actuation lever located on the engine, just above the clutch. Your lower end of the clutch attaches to it. This will lighten up the pull noticeably and the engagement zone of the clutch will also be increased.

We don't know the mileage of your bike, nor the maintenance but by your description, does need attention.. Fix/mod the above and you shouldn't have an issue with the clutch.



DSCN0074.JPGDSCN0075.JPG
 
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jmocco33

New Member
As noted above, the clutch pull normally is not an issue with a good cable, lubed properly..

My clutch cable failed with about 25,000 miles on it (always lubed/maintained) and the failure was inside the outer housing(not visible until cut open).

I was able to FEEL some "roughness" with both ends of the cable disconnected and just pulling it back and forth.. Pic's below are of the cable cut open.

Also, to lighten the pull, Yamaha part #1WS-16340-00 is a slightly longer clutch actuation lever located on the engine, just above the clutch. Your lower end of the clutch attaches to it. This will lighten up the pull noticeably and the engagement zone of the clutch will also be increased.

We don't know the mileage of your bike, nor the maintenance but by your description, does need attention.. Fix/mod the above and you shouldn't have an issue with the clutch.



View attachment 74140View attachment 74141
That looks nasty! I have a little less than 18k miles. I believe it would’ve been lubed around 14k, as that’s the mileage from the key chain from the dealership (still attached to the keys when my uncle sold it to me). Either way probably 3-4K miles between lubing. I haven’t noticed any fraying on the ends, but I’ll look again later. It’s still stored at my parents place 2 hours away. Been waiting to get my maintenance done before bringing it home. Thanks for the advice!
 

trepetti

It's all good!
Elite Member
Site Supporter
It is not just miles. Years take their toll on plastics, which are the main culprit in cable wear.

It's not for everyone, but my off-season maintenance routine is largely proactive. Every couple of years I replace cable, plugs, chain, caliper seals, whatever other wear items I can think of. I would rather replace something that is at 80% of its life than risk a breakdown or worse during the riding season. I call it 'Water Heater logic'. There are only 2 times to replace a water heater, before it leaks or after it leaks. No one ever had a bad day replacing a water heater too early. Only if you do it too late. :)
 

Arfa

New Member
The other quick mod you can do to help ease the clutch is swap the lower clutch push lever on the clutch cover with one off an MT07. It's slightly longer which gives more leverage and thus lightens things at the hand lever. It won't be as good as nice hydraulic clutch, but it's a quick, easy and cheap mod that helps a wee bit. Some info on MT07 part numbers and fitting instructions for the FZ6 clutch lever here.

But yes, make sure your clutch cable is in good nick first, a knackered clutch cable will often be really stiff until it decides to snap on you at the most inopportune moment...
 
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