Coolant!

Cocoloco

Active Member
Good day!
So my laziness struck me.
I did not clean my hose water joint pipe. And it unveiled pitting
I noticed a raised temp when sitting in traffic light and in the verge of overheating reached full bars but not blinking (fz6n s1) on a hot summer day around 37deg celsius
Went home and checked coolant is leaking from the water joint.
Im using prestone ready to use coolant
Does a small coolant leak cause overheating? Trapped air bubbles maybe?

I did Temporary fix of using steel epoxy around the pipe joint, i havent installed it yet i ripped my radiator hose by over torquing the hose clamps, new hose is yet to arrive

What can you say about redline water wetter? I bought one just to try to lower coolant temp.IMG_20220429_142308.jpg
 

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Cocoloco

Active Member
Reviving this thread again.
Overheating still persists!
After riding for about an hour my temp bar would go 4bars and fan kicks on, but while cruising i dont go down to 3 bars. Now when i sit in traffic light or creeping in traffic my bikes temp would go full bars.(not flashing)
What else could be the problem.
Though temps subsides when i shut off and rest the bike for about 5mins
Checked everywhere theres no coolant leak and radiator has full of coolant, same goes to the reservoir
The reservoir is not boiling
This is not occuring when ambient temp is cold or when riding at night
However when i left it at idle the fan would kick on but wont lower the coolant temp
A weak water pump could cause this?
A weak rad fan?
A bad thermosensor?

Note
Newly rebuilt engine
New radiator
New hoses
New thermostat
 

Motogiro

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I would definitely check the temperature sensor. The sensor value is read by the ECU. The ECU then sends data output to the engine temperature gauge readout and the ECU provides a ground path for the fan relay coil.
You might also check the water pump.
I remember you had an aggressive corrosion problem on hose outlets of the coolant system. If the internal water jackets of the engine are corroded it could impede heat transfer to the coolant causing insufficient cooling.
 

Motogiro

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I installed a new cap along with the new radiator,
I doubt its the cap because my reservoir is not getting coolant from radiator. But i will also try
The coolant recovery tank should change it's level as the engine heats. If not the cap may not be working properly. if the cap is not working properly there may be air trapped in the engine coolant system. Pull the cap when the engine is cool. There should be no air at the top of the radiator opening. Only coolant.
When the engine is entirely cool you should be able to squeeze a large radiator hose and coolant should be able to pass to the recovery tank and back again. As the engine warms and the coolant expands it goes to the coolant recovery. When the engine cools there is a valve in the cap that allows coolant to be sucked from the rcovery tank back into the the radiator/engine. Make sure the hose that goes to the recovery is not cracked and connectect to the recovery tank fitting that has the pipe that is submerged in the coolant.
This video gives a great explanation of the radiator cap self burping which allows the cooling system to remain air free.
 
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pmmcanon

Site Supporter
Reviving this thread again.
Overheating still persists!
After riding for about an hour my temp bar would go 4bars and fan kicks on, but while cruising i dont go down to 3 bars. Now when i sit in traffic light or creeping in traffic my bikes temp would go full bars.(not flashing)
What else could be the problem.
Though temps subsides when i shut off and rest the bike for about 5mins
Checked everywhere theres no coolant leak and radiator has full of coolant, same goes to the reservoir
The reservoir is not boiling
This is not occuring when ambient temp is cold or when riding at night
However when i left it at idle the fan would kick on but wont lower the coolant temp
A weak water pump could cause this?
A weak rad fan?
A bad thermosensor?

Note
Newly rebuilt engine
New radiator
New hoses
New thermostat
Hi, looking at the list of things you have changed I would take a look at the water pump, it's an easy check: Examine the petals for crakings or missing shape, also for corrosion or calcium deposits and the seals. If it's ok, the following point could be corrosion deposits embedded all around the coolant circuit; there are several "acid cleaners" that can deal with this kind of deposits (normally calcic),
Liqui Moly 2506
If now there are no leaks we can assume that there is no air coming in, but re-check the circuit, with the radiator cap off press the hoses looking for air bubbles appearing (engine cold and not running pls).
Good Luck
 

Cocoloco

Active Member
One thing i remember i didnt change was the impeller!
There was corrosion though i cleaned it and thought it will be ok because the coolant was flowing, i guess there's not enough flow when running slow or sitting at traffic
None was available here in my local parts dealer
I might buy a used assembly from fz6r newer models overseas
And a new thermosensor for a peace of mind
I cleaned the block and head water passage when i rebuilt the engine
Its hard to find these gremlins, i dont know when the other one will appear.
I will keep an update
Thank you very much!
 

Cocoloco

Active Member
I
Those are some significant leaks. Allowing the coolant system to pressurize should resolve the problems.
I was in shocked when i saw those leaks under pressure.
One thing i understand is the system should be pressurized when hot, if there is a leak it cant pressurize the system enough not to boil over.
Please correct me if im wrong
I was wrong to say im not losing coolant, but i guess it leaks then evaporates due to heat.
Thank you! Hope this will be the end of my quest to fix my bike.
 

Gary in NJ

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Water boils at 212F/100C at ambient pressure (14.7 psi or 1013mb). Raising the pressure by 5 psi (1379mb) increases the boiling point to 228F/109C and raising it to 25 psi / 1579 mb increases the boiling temperature to 240F/116C. The boiling point of 50% water and 50% glycol is around 226F / 108 at ambient pressure. So you can see how a pressurized system can withstand significantly higher temperature before boiling. The limitation on system pressure is typically the hoses and clamps. The above examples provide good reasons to swap out the pressure-relief cap as the bike gets older.
 

Motogiro

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Once your system is leak free and the pressure cap is confirmed good refill the system with a 50:50 ratio of coolant. Plain water is not good unless you have an emergency. Most coolants have corrosion inhibitent as well as lower expansion property at higher temperature. This promote more coolant in the engine. More coolant, higher heat transfer.
 
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