Cracks in rear tire grooves

[Pujazuba]

I washed the bike earlier and afterwards decided to use a motor cleaner I had to clean the grease off the ever so problematic rear wheel. Turned out to be killer strong de-greaser!
Anyways some of the liquid flowed down the tire etc.
Lil later I noticed these cracks in the tire and I am quite sure I have not seen them before.

I rinsed the tires with warm water although the cracks are only at the rear. Could they have been caused by the motor cleaner?
Are these cracks serious?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The cleaner didn't cause that.

VERY likely wear from being over inflated but in any event, DO NOT RIDE on that tire.

It's NOT safe and can blow out at any time.

 

[FinalImpact]

^^ +5, aggreed, not caused by cleaner but a product of age, flex, and very likely low tire pressure. I can't imagine it rode to well with the pressure that low.

Is this mostly commuting use?

 

[Pujazuba]

Thanks for the heads up! I can't believe I have been commuting everyday with those! Close to 80 km / day just for work including high speed sections.
I set the pressure right after winter storage. It had gone low during storage, but nothing rad. It felt awkward before and fine after setting the correct pressure.

 

[kenh]

I washed the bike earlier and afterwards decided to use a motor cleaner I had to clean the grease off the ever so problematic rear wheel. Turned out to be killer strong de-greaser!
Anyways some of the liquid flowed down the tire etc.
Lil later I noticed these cracks in the tire and I am quite sure I have not seen them before.

I rinsed the tires with warm water although the cracks are only at the rear. Could they have been caused by the motor cleaner?
Are these cracks serious?
View attachment 68130View attachment 68131View attachment 68132View attachment 68133

Just curious , what is the date coding in the sidewall? Regardless, as mentioned above ^^^ they appear slightly rotten and time to replace despite showing some tread.

 

[Pujazuba]

Date code is 1014. The bike spent last winter outside under a cover. With tire pressures normal at the start of storage. Harsh sub-zero winter can't have done it any good either.

I just took another good look at both ends and the front is no spring flower either. Dated 4614. And showing aging:


Bike had these tires on when I got it. Michelin Pilot Road 3 at the back and Continental ContiSportAttack2 at the front!
So I'm thinking isn't it time to set them right and get a complete set. What you guys say.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I agree with Kenn and Finalimpact. They look more dry rotted than under/over-inflated.

My tires PR2 and PR3 (on rear- squaring off) and their way older than yours, but NO cracking. The bike IS
garaged and doesn't sit in the weather / sun un-less being ridden.

If my tires looked like yours, just R&R both...It's NOT worth the high potential for a crash (way more $ and injuries)

Your NOT using any tire "shine" treatment are you?
I found on my old KLR, the tire shine stuff (Armor All) dry rotted (CRACKED) the side walls REALLY FAST.

I spoke with a tire manufacturer (for the trailer tires). He recommended NOTHING on the tires, just keep them clean..

Park in the shade, or out of the sun (for extended periods of time), especially if the sun is intense.

 

[trepetti]

Please be safe.......get new tires right now. Your current tires are not worth taking any chances on. Wise man taught me that before we go out to beat the odds, we need to be sure we can survive the odds beating us!

 

[Pujazuba]

Thanks again for the words of caution. I spoke to a colleague too earlier, a long term rider, and his view without having even seen the tires was that no big deal etc.

I take your advice on this one. It takes very simple logical thinking to see that replacement is the wise choice even if you ignored valuable advice!
1. The bike is used for daily commute on highways with heavy traffic. Not just the occasional joyride. So mileage is significant.
2. The current tire condition is only trending one way, towards the worse. Waiting is silly!
3. Pushing the envelope is not worth it since the moment you realize NOW is time to replace may be too late. Just like trepettis saying.

Anyways I just put in an order for a set of Pirelli DIABLO STRADAs.

Ow and about shine treatment, the only thing I have used on the tire walls a couple of times is rubber protectant. Sonax if I am not mistaken. Sprayed onto a cloth and applied to surfaces such as tires, door seals etc. I have used it specifically for the purpose of protecting the rubber from the elements, but who knows, maybe they make things look good temporarily while causing more harm than good!

 

[Motogiro]

Thanks again for the words of caution. I spoke to a colleague too earlier, a long term rider, and his view without having even seen the tires was that no big deal etc.

I take your advice on this one. It takes very simple logical thinking to see that replacement is the wise choice even if you ignored valuable advice!
1. The bike is used for daily commute on highways with heavy traffic. Not just the occasional joyride. So mileage is significant.
2. The current tire condition is only trending one way, towards the worse. Waiting is silly!
3. Pushing the envelope is not worth it since the moment you realize NOW is time to replace may be too late. Just like trepettis saying.

Anyways I just put in an order for a set of Pirelli DIABLO STRADAs.

Ow and about shine treatment, the only thing I have used on the tire walls a couple of times is rubber protectant. Sonax if I am not mistaken. Sprayed onto a cloth and applied to surfaces such as tires, door seals etc. I have used it specifically for the purpose of protecting the rubber from the elements, but who knows, maybe they make things look good temporarily while causing more harm than good!

Get rid of those tires! Lol! your long term rider friend is incorrect. Time does not always equate to experience and knowledge. You might be lucky and continue to ride on those but it's not safe to trust those tires. Don't put anything (except miles) on your tires.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ow and about shine treatment, the only thing I have used on the tire walls a couple of times is rubber protectant. Sonax if I am not mistaken. Sprayed onto a cloth and applied to surfaces such as tires, door seals etc. I have used it specifically for the purpose of protecting the rubber from the elements, but who knows, maybe they make things look good temporarily while causing more harm than good!

Anything with petroleum distillates on the tires, are NOT GOOD.. Check the contents..

 

[trepetti]

Get rid of those tires! Lol! your long term rider friend is incorrect. Time does not always equate to experience and knowledge. You might be lucky and continue to ride on those but it's not safe to trust those tires. Don't put anything (except miles) on your tires.

+1 on time not equaling experience. There is a difference between riding 10 years, and one year-10 times. [emoji55]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Pujazuba]

New set of tires installed so all fine in that department.

As for the place where the work was done, ow boy where do I start! This place looked like a dump. Only picked it based on being the closest partner to me that the tire supplier ships to. But it very much looked like they aren't equipped for motorcycles. This is what I witnessed and I was only there during the replacement work of the front tire.
1. Front of bike lifted with a harness around the handlebars with one section actually squeezing electric wires running under the handlebar.
2. Recently installed wheel tapes clearly disturbed.
3. Scratch on rear wheel I'm quite sure hadn't noticed before.
4. Front brakes dismantled at the calipers instead of at the forks, with the pads falling on a dirty ground, clean greased pin bolts placed on same dirty ground and put straight back in.
5. After installation front tire was not spinning very freely, wonder why!
6. After driving off in pouring rain I discover the rear brake bottoms out with no grip! Resolved after stopping and pumping several times.

I gave up on asking them to try any more with the front wheel spin issue since I could tell their methods are best to stay away from.
So I just got home and did a real quick cleaning of the front brake calipers. Wheel seems to have quite a resistance even when pads are not involved. Couldn't the wheel axle torque cause this if it's over tightened?

Thanks for your help peeps.

 

[FinalImpact]

Because that has sliding front calipers, they are suspect. Not knowing what you didn't see is alarming....

Air in the hydraulic lines could cause this as could pistons not retracting, or parts missing or the sliding calipers not.
Confirm both #8 are present left and right. If so, no you can't over tighten per say...
If you grab the caliper on each side and apply both inward force and then pull it outwards it should create a gap for the pads at the rotor.
If center stand equipped, slide a 7" block under the header to keep the nose in the air... Just press on the seat and slide block under with foot.
Spin the front wheel. Listen for what drags or touches. Now apply pressure to the other caliper. Does the wheel spin freely?
If no, you have bigger issues. See drawing. Items 2 and 3 do not come out easily so the shop should not have lost them.

This is a post from another thread.... sorry. Out of time to complete this...


Pictures from FROM HERE: 2007++ FZ6 Parts Reference Diagram/Images X46

See item # 8 here:

TAGS:
BEARING 93306-00420-00
OIL SEAL 93106-28043-00
SPACER, BEARING 4XV-25117-00-00
AXLE, WHEEL 4XV-25181-00-00
COLLAR 90387-22002-00
CAST WHEEL, FRONT 5SL-25168-00-98



THE REAR WHEEL BEARINGS:
As for the back, the bearing in the hub carrier #13 - I would leave it alone unless yours has issues or some roughness.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

New set of tires installed so all fine in that department.

As for the place where the work was done, ow boy where do I start! This place looked like a dump. Only picked it based on being the closest partner to me that the tire supplier ships to. But it very much looked like they aren't equipped for motorcycles. This is what I witnessed and I was only there during the replacement work of the front tire.
1. Front of bike lifted with a harness around the handlebars with one section actually squeezing electric wires running under the handlebar.
2. Recently installed wheel tapes clearly disturbed.
3. Scratch on rear wheel I'm quite sure hadn't noticed before.
4. Front brakes dismantled at the calipers instead of at the forks, with the pads falling on a dirty ground, clean greased pin bolts placed on same dirty ground and put straight back in.
5. After installation front tire was not spinning very freely, wonder why!
6. After driving off in pouring rain I discover the rear brake bottoms out with no grip! Resolved after stopping and pumping several times.

I gave up on asking them to try any more with the front wheel spin issue since I could tell their methods are best to stay away from.
So I just got home and did a real quick cleaning of the front brake calipers. Wheel seems to have quite a resistance even when pads are not involved. Couldn't the wheel axle torque cause this if it's over tightened?
.

With the pads out, front wheel in the air, that tire should spin at least 5 times when spinning by hand as hard as you can.

They would have moved the caliper pistons so they got pushed in at least a little bit (for clearance removing). Any crap on the pistons would get shoved in. As tight as it is any dirt in there is bad... As for air, I seriously doubt they opened / bleed the system (introduced any air).

You can re-clean them again, but pump(with the brake lever) the pistons out some, just so you can clean what's dirty.

***Also, Yamaha recommends brake seal replacement every TWO YEARS. In real life, expect 4-5 years... I changed mine out couple years ago (S2 which has 4 pistons on each side, not 2). I still get about 3.5 full rotations (ft lifted, pads in, pumped up) when spinning by hand as hard as I can...

The rubber seals get hard over time and doesn't like to flex.

As noted above, make sure the floating caliper bracket, where the bolts go in, had fresh grease in it, not old, hardened up grease that will hamper movement.


With your description of the shop / workmanship, I'd check the CHAIN PLAY per the manual as it it probably too tight.
Should be 2" total, up and down, measured at the tightest point.

 

[Motogiro]

New set of tires installed so all fine in that department.

As for the place where the work was done, ow boy where do I start! This place looked like a dump. Only picked it based on being the closest partner to me that the tire supplier ships to. But it very much looked like they aren't equipped for motorcycles. This is what I witnessed and I was only there during the replacement work of the front tire.
1. Front of bike lifted with a harness around the handlebars with one section actually squeezing electric wires running under the handlebar.
2. Recently installed wheel tapes clearly disturbed.
3. Scratch on rear wheel I'm quite sure hadn't noticed before.
4. Front brakes dismantled at the calipers instead of at the forks, with the pads falling on a dirty ground, clean greased pin bolts placed on same dirty ground and put straight back in.
5. After installation front tire was not spinning very freely, wonder why!
6. After driving off in pouring rain I discover the rear brake bottoms out with no grip! Resolved after stopping and pumping several times.

I gave up on asking them to try any more with the front wheel spin issue since I could tell their methods are best to stay away from.
So I just got home and did a real quick cleaning of the front brake calipers. Wheel seems to have quite a resistance even when pads are not involved. Couldn't the wheel axle torque cause this if it's over tightened?

Thanks for your help peeps.

You'd think there would be a law. I would pull the front wheel and check the torque on the axle.
I just put new tires on my bike but I pull the wheels and reinstall them after I have a reputable mechanic mount the new tires and balance.
After you get this sorted you will posses the experience and not have to rely on posers with just a hammer and chisel to do all their work.

Sent from Moto's Motorola

 

[Pujazuba]

Many thanks for all the advice.
- Front spacers #8 from above diagram are in.
- After a ride the left side rotor seems to be much hotter than the right side. Will do a better check later while avoiding front brakes to identify if one or both sides are to blame.
- Chain play is one of the first things I sneakily checked while they were working. Seemed fine but will do an accurate measurement of that too.
- Definitely will do a better cleaning of the pistons and possibly replace the brake fluid as I don't know how old it is. Just need to get my hands on a suitable clear tube for bleeding.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Many thanks for all the advice.
- Front spacers #8 from above diagram are in.
- After a ride the left side rotor seems to be much hotter than the right side. Will do a better check later while avoiding front brakes to identify if one or both sides are to blame.
- Chain play is one of the first things I sneakily checked while they were working. Seemed fine but will do an accurate measurement of that too.
- Definitely will do a better cleaning of the pistons and possibly replace the brake fluid as I don't know how old it is. Just need to get my hands on a suitable clear tube for bleeding.

For testing, as you did do, one rotor hotter than another (short of air in the system-do a bleed), confirms your due for front caliper seals.
That hot caliper is telling you it needs attention.. Fortunately, your bike only has two pistons on each side so it's a bit easier and cheaper than the S2 models..