Enable Co Adjustment USA Only (Lean / Richen)

Zanch

Member
Estimated Time: 20-30 minutes if you're really slow

Applies to:
All FZ6 Years produced for the USA

What you need:
Yamaha's tool kit that came with the bike or appropriate tools.
Some thin wire ( I used 18awg solid core but it doesn't really matter)
I also used two pairs of pliers to pull the connector in question apart.

Why I made this:
As you may or may not know, there is a Co adjustment built into the FZ6 and other Yamaha's that supposedly allows you to richen or lean out the air fuel mix. Since I have Scorpion exhausts and they tend to lean the bike out / you can get more power if you do the Co adjustments... I've made this for the community.

Special Thanks:
I would like to thank krid80 for his information on the subject. I decided to make this because it was way to hard to search and find the information on this.

Instructions:
  1. Remove Tank
    a. Remove the hinge bolt with the included bike ratchet

    b. Remove the 2 allen screws with a 5 mm allen wrench

    c. prop the tank up on the handlebars or however you feel comfortable
  2. Locate Harness
    It will be near the frame in the red box note that it's directly under the tank.

    Lets take a closer look...

    Notice the connectors. You're looking for the semi clear 6 pin connector. In this picture it's the one in the back behind the white connector.

    Here's the connector you want all by itself.
  3. Pry the connector apart. It will be tough but it'll come apart. I used a pair of pliers and a flat head screw driver to loosen the connector
  4. ground the wire - You will be grounding the wire that isn't connected to anything. It will be yellow with a red stripe and brown splotches
    I stripped off a good amount of insulation and just stuck it into the yellow terminal. I then plugged the connector back together. You can then connect the other end of the wire to either the negative battery terminal or anywhere on the frame.
  5. Test the results! - Now it's time to do the adjustments


  6. G8anos's Instructions for Adjusting Co
    1. We push at the same time the SELECT + RESET and keep them pushed

    2. We turn the key to ON while continuing to keep our buttons pushed SELECT + RESET

    3. Wait 3 to 4 seconds to show us in the speedometer DIAG and stop pushing the SELECT + RESET buttons

    4. We push the SELECT to show the CO

    5. Hold the SELECT + RESET to show us the C1

    6. Hold the SELECT + RESET to go into C1 which shows a number that is the regulation of the current mixture in the cylinders 1st + 4th think (mine was -2, note the number you have in case you want to reset)

    7. We push SELECT to add fuel, while RESET to remove

    8. Hold the SELECT + RESET to get out of the C1

    9. We push SELECT to display the C2

    10. Hold the SELECT + RESET to get into C2 which shows a number that is the regulation of the current mixture in the cylinders 2nd + 3rd think (mine was 8, note the number you have)

    11. We repeat ,as on step 7 (Add fuel)

    12. Hold the SELECT + RESET to get out of the C2

    13. Close the switch by turning the key to OFF

    The official Instructions

  7. Krid80's Results
    Run 1 (stock tune) - 93.20hp

    Run 2 (+4 C1 and C2) - 93.82hp

    Run 3 (+9 C1 and C2) - 94.77hp

    Run 4 (+14 C1 and C2) - 95.11hp

    Run 5 (+19 C1 and C2) - 95.60hp

    Run 6 (+24 C1 and C2) - 95.79hp

    Run 7 (+29 C1 and C2) - 95.681

 
Last edited:

Zanch

Member
I have scorpion exhausts and added 24 to both c1 and c2.

I ended up with c1: 0 and c2: 20
My original settings were -24 and -4

What were your results?
 

Neworleans

Junior Member
Just some advice to learn from my mistake. Make sure you ground your wire well. I drove around all day after adjusting my CO1 from 0 to 20 and CO2 from 0 to 20. Seems to run smoother. But suddenly I threw a check engine light, fault code 21. Uh oh..thermostat was reading at half, fan was on full speed. Pulled over and checked her over my ground wire had come undone removed the wire and back to normal whooo not fun.
 

noel aka medic

Junior Member
thanks for all the info guys i have no mechanical skills so i would have to take it to the shop i am going to show him all the threads hopefully he would know which road to take
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
thanks for all the info guys i have no mechanical skills so i would have to take it to the shop i am going to show him all the threads hopefully he would know which road to take
Don't know how you found this 4 years old, but there was just a thread re hot wiring for the US models for the CO adjustments. :thumbup:
 

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Site Supporter
FWIW: if someone does this mod, you'll notice the "critical" connections that should not be compromised all have "water proof" rubber seals at those junctions. Its suggested that you maintain the integrity of the water tight seal. So, instead of routing the wire out of the body, puncture the rubber plug on the opposite side (opposing connection) and run it through there. This will maintain the integrity of the connector.

PS - the water proof connections mainly encompass the bikes low voltage sensors and ECM.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
I have no intention of doing this mod (bike doesn't need it) BUT, if I were, I'd use a "Posi Tap". Very simple, very none intrusive.
 

stege

Junior Member
Just to be sure, a higher number means more fuel to the mix, right?

What if I've bought this bike second hand and I have no idea what the default settings must be for C1 and C2 and the exhaust reeks of gas fumes?

Should I decrease the values for both C1 and C2?

Please help. Thanks a bunch!
 

Carlos840

Junior Member
My experience only comes from reading the original thread many times (http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/4809-dyno-tune-co-adjustment-leo-vince.html)

Basically, yes higher numbers mean more fuel, lower/negative numbers mean less.

Yes, you should decrease both numbers equally, C1 are the cylinder 1 and 4, C2 are cylinder 2 and 3.

It is normal for C2 to have a higher number, the inner cylinders are richer to control temperature (a lot of EU bikes have something close to C1:-3 C2:16) try to maintain the relation between C1 and C2 that your bike had originally.

Watch out, people who have grounded to the battery have apparently had problems with both values resetting to zero, which is not good.
 

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Site Supporter
Just to be sure, a higher number means more fuel to the mix, right?

What if I've bought this bike second hand and I have no idea what the default settings must be for C1 and C2 and the exhaust reeks of gas fumes?

Should I decrease the values for both C1 and C2?

Please help. Thanks a bunch!
In that case you might put in a fresh air filter and see if that helps before messing with this. You don't mention what year your bike is, but the S2's have pre-cats in the header pipe and a main cat. These should burn those unburned hydrocarbon. So, perhaps, your's has no cats and plugged air filter thus its rich....

If however, no after market exhaust, I'd also be looking at a basic tune up with new plugs of the proper gap and checking the plug wires are screwed into the cap properly before doing this. Just a thought....
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/48874-vibration-cure-bad-vibrations-spark-plug-caps.html
 

stege

Junior Member
FinalImpact: thanks for suggestions.

The bike is 2004 and unfortunately the exhaust is stock and I've just replaced the spark plugs and the air filter.

One friend suggested I've been spoiled with newer bikes in the past(Tenere 2008, F800GS) having EURO4/5 standards and perhaps he's rights. I just smelled an 2004 R6, and it smells worse than mine...

One more thing I will do though. Check the valves and their clearance, might find some damages there.
 
Last edited:

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Site Supporter
In that case you might put in a fresh air filter and see if that helps before messing with this. You don't mention what year your bike is, but the S2's have pre-cats in the header pipe and a main cat. These should burn those unburned hydrocarbon. So, perhaps, your's has no cats and plugged air filter thus its rich....

If however, no after market exhaust, I'd also be looking at a basic tune up with new plugs of the proper gap and checking the plug wires are screwed into the cap properly before doing this. Just a thought....
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/48874-vibration-cure-bad-vibrations-spark-plug-caps.html
FinalImpact: thanks for suggestions.

The bike is 2004 and unfortunately the exhaust is stock and I've just replaced the spark plugs and the air filter.

One friend suggested I've been spoiled with newer bikes in the past(Tenere 2008, F800GS) having EURO4/5 standards and perhaps he's rights. I just smelled an 2004 R6, and it smells worse than mine...

One more thing I will do though. Check the valves and their clearance, might find some damages there.
There could be some truth in that. The early small dia CATs in the mid pipe are not as effective and it may smell that way.

This process only takes a few minutes and because its not required to leave a wire behind, you could check it. My 08 was set at 0/0 for both C1/C2 setting it to 25 makes it a tad stinky but it has a bigger better cat in 08 so Id imagine its doing its part to clean it up!
 

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Site Supporter
Noticeable changes from C1/C2 = 0/0 to 25/25

Idle speed dropped about 200 RPM (it richened the mixture)
Off idle throttle response improved both static and via @ss dyno 1st - 4th
In addition:
- it pulls smoother
- it pulls quicker
- max power change ??? Its not like head snap, but it sings a pleasant song now....
- pipe are popping more indicating unburned fuel is present!
* now we can go back and play with the trigger wheel some more!


Some added info just in case someone wants to do this.
1) Pull the main power from the top of the battery by removing this connector. (See Attached)

2) Pull the clear connector apart like OP stated.

3) Push out rubber plug. (see attached)

4) Insert test lead into socket. (see attached)

5) Plug socket together. Confirm connection.
I used to test lamp to ground to ensure I did not inadvertently short anything. If I did, this 12V lamp would light as the other side is shorted to ground. With the key on, the lamp did not light and when ohm'd to ground, the connection to the ECM indicated to 1600 ohms. SO, that is my way of knowing I had a valid connection. Its time to proceed!

6) Reconnect main harness power. Follow process, of key on, holding and pushing buttons.

7) Record values C1/C2

8) Change values and test drive OR just look if you need to know. So, I set the values to 25/25 using a test lamp instead of straight wire and the ECM responded as expected.

9) Remove probe and insert plug to keep moisture out. FWIW: I can pull the plug easily now and stick a probe in there for minor tweaks.

Why did I document this? Because the 12v test lamp is a valid means of getting that wire to ground AND doing it SAFELY without fear of damaging something by shorting it out. The concern here, is IF there were changes by Yamaha along the way and I could DAMAGE MY ECM, its very likely that test lamp would be lit indicating I was ABOUT TO GROUND +12V and short something that should not be shorted! Make sense? Also, as a rule of thumb, something that indicates resistance like this did (1600 ohms) tells me its nearly safe to short it. Plus it has very tiny wires. If it read like 3 ohms and we apply 12.5V, that could be hazardous 12.5/3ohms = 4.1 AMps (not good).

FWIW: My 08 responded nicely to this little treatment! Thank you all those before me!
 
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FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Site Supporter
4 tanks of fuel later - this has reduced MPG's....
FWIW: Added +25 to C0 & C1

Average has been 45 ~ 46 mpg. New avg 600 miles after adj - 42.5 mpg...
It effects much more than the idle circuit based upon mpgs, bikes performance and the exhaust tone...
 

tom.gabriele

Junior Member
9) Remove probe and insert plug to keep moisture out. FWIW: I can pull the plug easily now and stick a probe in there for minor tweaks.
First of all, sorry for the necro-bump.

To clarify, grounding the pin is only necessary to unlock the option in diag mode, but it doesn't need to stay grounded after adjustments are made?
 

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Site Supporter
Correct!

I have found that with a pick you can pull the plug w out raising the tank. Insert ground probe ans done in minutes...
 

Anthony.94

New Member
Read through the posts on this topic, I don't have access to a dyno. I assume I can just adjust the settings to +15-20 and be fine with it? At sea level with the bike 90% of the time. Bike has leo Vince exhaust.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
Read through the posts on this topic, I don't have access to a dyno. I assume I can just adjust the settings to +15-20 and be fine with it? At sea level with the bike 90% of the time. Bike has leo Vince exhaust.
You shouldn't have to adjust it at all if that's all the mods have done to it...

Should you decide to alter the settings, it's strongly suggested to RECORD the stock settings as no two bikes are the same...
 

mericadck

New Member
Estimated Time: 20-30 minutes if you're really slow

Applies to:
All FZ6 Years produced for the USA

What you need:
Yamaha's tool kit that came with the bike or appropriate tools.
Some thin wire ( I used 18awg solid core but it doesn't really matter)
I also used two pairs of pliers to pull the connector in question apart.

Why I made this:
As you may or may not know, there is a Co adjustment built into the FZ6 and other Yamaha's that supposedly allows you to richen or lean out the air fuel mix. Since I have Scorpion exhausts and they tend to lean the bike out / you can get more power if you do the Co adjustments... I've made this for the community.

Special Thanks:
I would like to thank krid80 for his information on the subject. I decided to make this because it was way to hard to search and find the information on this.

Instructions:
  1. Remove Tank
    a. Remove the hinge bolt with the included bike ratchet

    b. Remove the 2 allen screws with a 5 mm allen wrench

    c. prop the tank up on the handlebars or however you feel comfortable
  2. Locate Harness
    It will be near the frame in the red box note that it's directly under the tank.

    Lets take a closer look...

    Notice the connectors. You're looking for the semi clear 6 pin connector. In this picture it's the one in the back behind the white connector.

    Here's the connector you want all by itself.
  3. Pry the connector apart. It will be tough but it'll come apart. I used a pair of pliers and a flat head screw driver to loosen the connector
  4. ground the wire - You will be grounding the wire that isn't connected to anything. It will be yellow with a red stripe and brown splotches
    I stripped off a good amount of insulation and just stuck it into the yellow terminal. I then plugged the connector back together. You can then connect the other end of the wire to either the negative battery terminal or anywhere on the frame.
  5. Test the results! - Now it's time to do the adjustments


  6. G8anos's Instructions for Adjusting Co
    1. We push at the same time the SELECT + RESET and keep them pushed

    2. We turn the key to ON while continuing to keep our buttons pushed SELECT + RESET

    3. Wait 3 to 4 seconds to show us in the speedometer DIAG and stop pushing the SELECT + RESET buttons

    4. We push the SELECT to show the CO

    5. Hold the SELECT + RESET to show us the C1

    6. Hold the SELECT + RESET to go into C1 which shows a number that is the regulation of the current mixture in the cylinders 1st + 4th think (mine was -2, note the number you have in case you want to reset)

    7. We push SELECT to add fuel, while RESET to remove

    8. Hold the SELECT + RESET to get out of the C1

    9. We push SELECT to display the C2

    10. Hold the SELECT + RESET to get into C2 which shows a number that is the regulation of the current mixture in the cylinders 2nd + 3rd think (mine was 8, note the number you have)

    11. We repeat ,as on step 7 (Add fuel)

    12. Hold the SELECT + RESET to get out of the C2

    13. Close the switch by turning the key to OFF

    The official Instructions

  7. Krid80's Results
    Run 1 (stock tune) - 93.20hp

    Run 2 (+4 C1 and C2) - 93.82hp

    Run 3 (+9 C1 and C2) - 94.77hp

    Run 4 (+14 C1 and C2) - 95.11hp

    Run 5 (+19 C1 and C2) - 95.60hp

    Run 6 (+24 C1 and C2) - 95.79hp

    Run 7 (+29 C1 and C2) - 95.681
any pictures
 
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