Question Fault Codes

RayO

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Fault codes: On a good and going S2 FZ6 could someone please list the codes from D01 to D09? That would be very helpful.
 

Gary in NJ

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Section 7 of the FSM goes into the codes in great detail (7-11) and provide fault trees for trouble shooting as well. I believe you got a copy of the FSM a few days ago.

The other day you asked via PM about D03. You mentioned that you were getting a reading of 100. That sounds like a reading for D01, indicating a throttle that is fully open. What you should see for D03 is the actual air pressure when the engine isn't running, and smaller value when the engine is cranking. I also provided the info necessary to troubleshoot the IAP.

What is the exact problem you are trying to resolve?
 
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RayO

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FSM not yet received . Please send to [email protected]
That would be great
My problems are Fault Codes 12 and 13
12 I understand I will need to remove the Crank Position sender to examine it for wear as I understand this component can apparently wear out(??)
13 For Do3 I have a reading of 100. Differential Pressure between atmosphere and air intake. Depending on the units this could be ok. (100 = same) but I don't know, hence my question.
Gary was helpful in his knowledge of the reading from the sensor that might be read with a voltmeter but, short of bench testing, this measurement cannot be performed on the bike in situ as there is no terminal access (that I know about).
To get the sensor out looks like a mission because the sensor incorporates cylinder head temperature as well. If 100 was good then I wouldn't bother, but I don't know.
The bike has been unused for some years. When I put a battery in it the engine would run for about 4 seconds, then stop. Since then, I've come to think this was due to a sticking Stand Switch. Having fixed that I've run into Crank Position fault and Differential Air pressure. (going backwards here) Cheers from Down Under. RayO
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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The crank position sensor is inside the small right side cover (see below).
The harness comes out and plugs into the main harness. If testing electrically, you do have access to the wiring by just un-plugging.

The one time I remember a failure of it, the member had MANY miles (roughly 100,000) on the bike and the cam chain came into contact with the sensor damaging it.


From Partzilla:

Also, you have mail...Capture.JPG
 

Gary in NJ

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You can test the CPS by disconnecting the CPS from the harness and placing the positive probe of your tester on the gray wire and the negative probe on the black wire. You should read between 248 - 372 ohms.

While you have the connector separated, be sure to spray some contact cleaner on both sides of the connector.

The IAP sensor is attached to the same main harness as the fuel injectors. It is mounted behind the cylinder bank just above the upper engine mount on the left hand side of the bike. It is the connector with the pink/white and black/blue wire lead to the sensor. The blue wire is the excitation voltage to the sensor. The sensor itself is at the other end of the harness on the right side of the engine. With the ignition in the ON position you should see between 3.75 - 4.25 VDC at the connector - while connected (it needs its excitation voltage).

When the IAP is failed, the ECU fixes the reading at 101.3 kPa so the engine is able to start and run. A failed IAP should not prevent the engine from running (but it will run with a fault code).

Here is a little interesting tid-bit of info. The IAP, CPS, and lean sensor all share the same excitation from the ECU (Blue wire). I find it odd that the CPS and IAP would fail at the same time. I suspect corrosion at the ECU connector or a broken wire. I would certainly check the continuity of the blue wire throughout the wire harness. It's possible that a rodent had a little feast on a wire while you were away.
 
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agf

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I had a CPS fail early last year, apparently once the motor warms up and expands, you stop the motor, it cant find where where the crank aligns too. Once it cools down, problem resolves until next time. You only need ride 1-2 kms and its enough to cause a hassle. I had to get a fresh one shipped from Japan. Once it was installed - all good!
 

RayO

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The crank position sensor is inside the small right side cover (see below).
The harness comes out and plugs into the main harness. If testing electrically, you do have access to the wiring by just un-plugging.

The one time I remember a failure of it, the member had MANY miles (roughly 100,000) on the bike and the cam chain came into contact with the sensor damaging it.


From Partzilla:

Also, you have mail...View attachment 74895
You can test the CPS by disconnecting the CPS from the harness and placing the positive probe of your tester on the gray wire and the negative probe on the black wire. You should read between 248 - 372 ohms.

While you have the connector separated, be sure to spray some contact cleaner on both sides of the connector.

The IAP sensor is attached to the same main harness as the fuel injectors. It is mounted behind the cylinder bank just above the upper engine mount on the left hand side of the bike. It is the connector with the pink/white and black/blue wire lead to the sensor. The blue wire is the excitation voltage to the sensor. The sensor itself is at the other end of the harness on the right side of the engine. With the ignition in the ON position you should see between 3.75 - 4.25 VDC at the connector - while connected (it needs its excitation voltage).

When the IAP is failed, the ECU fixes the reading at 101.3 kPa so the engine is able to start and run. A failed IAP should not prevent the engine from running (but it will run with a fault code).

Here is a little interesting tid-bit of info. The IAP, CPS, and lean sensor all share the same excitation from the ECU (Blue wire). I find it odd that the CPS and IAP would fail at the same time. I suspect corrosion at the ECU connector or a broken wire. I would certainly check the continuity of the blue wire throughout the wire harness. It's possible that a rodent had a little feast on a wire while you were away.
Thank you for the heads up on my issues with get the FZ6 going. I will have to leave it for a month as I have other things I must do. Thank you for the manual most recently. I must confess manuals arrived earlier, my Monday about midnight. I didn't realise what I had.
So, on the crank position sensor I have tested continuity and it gets to the ECU. Resistance looking to the sensor from the ECU is 280 ohms, close to the upper end of the specified range. When the engine is cranked the resistance reading changes, as it should I expect. Needs further investigation.
Thanks for the heads up on the blue wire. I'll have to get back to it later.
Cheers,
RayO
 

Motogiro

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Here is a little interesting tid-bit of info. The IAP, CPS, and lean sensor all share the same excitation from the ECU (Blue wire). I find it odd that the CPS and IAP would fail at the same time. I suspect corrosion at the ECU connector or a broken wire. I would certainly check the continuity of the blue wire throughout the wire harness. It's possible that a rodent had a little feast on a wire while you were away.

In addition (according to the schematic) there will be a black with a blue tracer wire. The CPS (error code 12) is fed from the the black with blue tracer wire. This black with blue tracer wire feeds most of these sensors. Some of the sensors use the black with blue tracer and the blue wire with an additional 3rd wire that returns to the ECU to give the value of the sensor.
In the case of the CPS only 2 wires are used. Black with a blue tracer and a grey wire are used. Because there is multiple error code and the CPS is included I would suspect the black with blue tracer as the common sensor signal.
 

Motogiro

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There are 2 wires at the ignition switch. They are lighter gauge wires. One is Black with a blue tracer and one is a white with a blue tracer. When the key is turned to the on position, these 2 wires are connected.
 
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