Need Help Fork Lock and Ignition Busted by Thief

billsmarz

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Hi All,

I did a search but didn't find anything specific.

I keep my bike in my rear yard -- I live in Philadelphia -- and It's locked with a typical bicycle lock to some metal fence and I always hit the fork lock. You can access that yard by a gate and there's construction next door that broke the gate.. If I park it anywhere else, I put the alarm on it. I'm trying not to dwell on the "how" because I am going to raise hell with this developer next door.

I guess some guys got in and busted the ignition/fork lock full off the fork. What do I need to fix this? Do I need new forks?
 

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billsmarz

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Thanks for the response, gents. There're some cheapish ones on ebay. Anyone know how complicated it is to get that off? I'm praying they didn't short anything when trying to "hotwire" it. Need to find a seat and side covers too.
 

Gary in NJ

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The eBay/Amazon lock cylinders typically work well. If you want to use just one key for the bike, be sure to order the ignition set and fuel cap kit. Also, be sure that the harness on the ignition set is long enough. I forget the required lenth...but simply measure your existing harness to make sure that the replacement is in the right zone. A seat you might find on ebay (or the for sale thread here). Looking at that seat, I'm thinking you can straighten it out with a heat gun (off the bike).
 

Motogiro

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Another possibility: A high percentage of hot wiring results in shorting the diodes out in the Starter interrupt-cutoff relay assembly.
Even if the thief didn't blow the diodes you may do it. Disconnect the battery negative lead and tuck it away till your done with your repairs.
You might want to order a new unit so here is a link: https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/50044e4cf8700209bc7915b9/electrical-2
See part #22 on the parts fiche.
 

agf

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I'm really sorry to see and hear of the attempted theft. They must have been realy keen to take it doing so much damage to the triple clamp. Hope you can source parts quickly and insurance covers the costs. I second the idea of a heat gun on the seat base, just take your time, that plastic will have a critical temperature when it goes to mush
 

billsmarz

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Hi,

thanks for the replies. I’m really hoping the electrical is all in order. Or maybe a short saved me from getting it stolen. A guy around the corner had a nice triumph stolen the same night. I ordered the eBay link below. I’m in the middle of house renovations so the bike is just been chained down. I’ll update when the parts come and I have time to take things apart.


 

billsmarz

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Hi everyone,

I winterized the bike and am getting back to it now.

New used triple clamp on. Some used flairings on. I turn the key and get no power?

One of the fuses on the starter relay was blown. @Motogiro Would the Starter interrupt-cutoff relay assembly cause no power? or no starter? Is there a way to test this?

Anyone have thoughts on where to look? They were digging around all over and I can't find the issue. Could the new ignition be bad?

Thanks again!
 

Motogiro

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Let's start at the battery.. What's the voltage at the battery? Turn the key off, measure voltage. Turn the key on, measure the voltage.
 

trepetti

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The main 30A fuse is connected directly to the RR (#3) and the ignition switch (#1). All other pathways are protected by lower amperage fuses ('#4-Backup 10A, #5-Fuel injection 10A and #42-Radiator Fan 20A) that should blow before the 30A main. Focus your efforts there.

1 - Unplug both the RR and the ignition switch and pull fuses 4, 5 and 42. Replace the fuse and if the main blows you have a shorted wire or connector.
2 - If test 1 is good, plug in only the RR. If the main blows then the RR or it's connector has a short.
3 - Unplug the RR and plug in the ignition switch. Same thing, if the main blows then the switch is bar or installed wrong, or the connector is shorted.

That should get you closer to the fix...
 
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