Front sprocket stuck
- Thread starter Mr_Green
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Make sure you un-bend the metal flap that is hammered against the flat on the nut.... If it is still stuck, hit it with penetrating oil and let it soak. Do this a few times if needed.
Did you say the chain is already broken? If that is not the case, get a metal or wooden bar ( I use a breaker bar), wrap it in a towel and put it through the spokes of the rear wheel across the top of the swingarm. Then when you are wrenching the bolt, the bar prevents the wheel from rotating, allowing you to put maximum torque on the nut. Otherwise you may need to do some light persuading with an impact gun with the bike in gear.
When you replace the sprocket, make sure you get a new lock washer and peen the flap tightly against a flat on the sprocket nut. Failure to do so can cause the nut to come off over time causing damage to the engine casing, damage to the rider.... or worse. Much worse.
And make sure you tighten the nut to 65 ft lbs. The manual does not call for any locktite.
Did you say the chain is already broken? If that is not the case, get a metal or wooden bar ( I use a breaker bar), wrap it in a towel and put it through the spokes of the rear wheel across the top of the swingarm. Then when you are wrenching the bolt, the bar prevents the wheel from rotating, allowing you to put maximum torque on the nut. Otherwise you may need to do some light persuading with an impact gun with the bike in gear.
When you replace the sprocket, make sure you get a new lock washer and peen the flap tightly against a flat on the sprocket nut. Failure to do so can cause the nut to come off over time causing damage to the engine casing, damage to the rider.... or worse. Much worse.
And make sure you tighten the nut to 65 ft lbs. The manual does not call for any locktite.
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I like the wheel lock idea. I would also apply heat and use a high torque impact driver if you have access to one.
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I've always used Toms method..
Even for retorquing. There's no un-necessary pressure on the transmission gears, just the chain and sprockets. And it's a very solid method, much more so than holding the brake on/etc..
As for the broke chain, get the chain across the rear sprocket as much as possible.
Perhaps a small vise grip to hold it to the sprocket (wheel still locked down as noted above). At the engine sprocket, again, a small set of vise grips grabbing the chain to ITSELF (from the side)...
.
Even for retorquing. There's no un-necessary pressure on the transmission gears, just the chain and sprockets. And it's a very solid method, much more so than holding the brake on/etc..
As for the broke chain, get the chain across the rear sprocket as much as possible.
Perhaps a small vise grip to hold it to the sprocket (wheel still locked down as noted above). At the engine sprocket, again, a small set of vise grips grabbing the chain to ITSELF (from the side)...
.
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Sorry, I just picked up on the fact that the chain is broken. You can use a master link to re-join the chain, and then use the above methods to break the nut loose. If you have a welder, just tack it together.
i just have the rear brake on to lock the back wheel, but i like this wood idea
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Get a bar and a towel. At the very least it it frees up your foot and allows you to use body position to your advantage. Anything will do, just wrap in an old bath towel.
Mr_Green
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Thanks for all the help everyone! After waiting a week for the parts to come in it’s all fixed. And the feeling I was feeling before is now gone. The front sprocket was so insanely worn out.
Sadly, the bike is now acting weird. It feels as if it’s taking it much longer to get up to speed. It also has trouble when it’s just idling or if it’s in first gear and I’m not applying any throttle it’s jerking for some reason.
could this be something with the chain? Or a possible fuel filter problem?
Sadly, the bike is now acting weird. It feels as if it’s taking it much longer to get up to speed. It also has trouble when it’s just idling or if it’s in first gear and I’m not applying any throttle it’s jerking for some reason.
could this be something with the chain? Or a possible fuel filter problem?
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It always makes sense to start trouble shooting where you left off. Make sure that the new sprocket is fully engaged on the splines of the output shaft, that the nut is torqued to spec, and that the washer in bent-over the nut. Also, make sure that you have the chain slack to spec @ =/- 1-inch (50mm).
"taking too long to get up to speed" could be a symptom of a worn clutch. Does the engine increase in rpm, yet the bike fails to accelerate proportionally?
What do you mean by "has trouble when idling"? What trouble does it present?
Why do you suspect the fuel filter? Do you have rust issues in the tank?
"taking too long to get up to speed" could be a symptom of a worn clutch. Does the engine increase in rpm, yet the bike fails to accelerate proportionally?
What do you mean by "has trouble when idling"? What trouble does it present?
Why do you suspect the fuel filter? Do you have rust issues in the tank?
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Sounds like a too tight chain..
.
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Mr_Green
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The tank has been kreemed about a year ago. I've been skeptical about it ever since I did it.
When Idling it seems like it revs low enough that the engine could shut off but it doesn't. When it first gear the bike also feels like its having trouble moving forward when I'm not applying any throttle. It starts to jerk a bit and feels like its unpredictable. I can double check the slack but I quadruple checked the slack of the chain before finalizing the alignment of the tire.
When Idling it seems like it revs low enough that the engine could shut off but it doesn't. When it first gear the bike also feels like its having trouble moving forward when I'm not applying any throttle. It starts to jerk a bit and feels like its unpredictable. I can double check the slack but I quadruple checked the slack of the chain before finalizing the alignment of the tire.
Mr_Green
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Yes, I believe I am feeling the clutch being worn...I'll take it out once the roads are dry and test it out again.
