Fuel pump replacement

pmmcanon

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Hi there, I've been restoring my FZ S2 2008 and found the fuel pump is defective. I've tryed an R6 pump to check if this was the only issue and it works so the pump is death. I don't want to change all the assembly because it's too much expensive and all the remaining components work well (the lever, the housing, the o-rings and the connectors).

Do you know any pump engine compatible 100% with the original housing? I'm worried about connectors O-rings and dimensions... Any advice is more than welcome.
To make it more complex the seller has to deliver to Spain (nobody is perfect :D ). Maybe if you provide me with the item code or something similar I can look locally for it.
Thanks in advance
 

pmmcanon

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Scouting found this.... seems to be the same part (Nippon Denso).

 

pmmcanon

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I look for it in E Bay English and its not there... :( Perhaps as they don't ship to the US??

That does appear to be what is the replacement, it was a Denso...
:)Thks for the reply, much appreciated, I'm attaching a picture and it seems to be the Denso original
 

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Gary in NJ

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pmmcanon

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Hi again guys, I found a "direct replacement" in Spain, it is an real Nippon Denso pump that hopefully will go direct to the housing and connectors using the original filter. It is the same item reference, with the same specifications so it should work as the original one. When I receive and install it I'll let you know the results and also the part number from Denso if you need it in the future. By the way... 54 Euros is not a bad price
 

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pmmcanon

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Done!!! It works perfectly :D . It's a direct and simply straight replacement. Things to take into account: No filter comes with the pump, so you must reuse the existing. There is a small collar where it joins the housing not provided too but you can use the original.
There is no serial/part/item number at any place :rolleyes:, perhaps Denso want to have a parallel market whithout dissapointing the Bikes manufacturers :D.
It comes in a very nice box, sealed and with this plastic card (image attached)
KR from Spain
 

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pmmcanon

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Bad news... the bike has begun to stall, lightly at the first moments but I was travelling in a dangerous road to get stuck, I've been riding with increasing stalls until find one safe place to stop. The stall was really big and was only able to maintain 40 Km/h in 2nd gear... Look at the pictures to see the results of this stalling, the plastic cover under the seat has melted going over the exhaust pipe. Lucky as no fire appear. Pictures in next post
 

pmmcanon

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The horror pictures
 

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pmmcanon

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Jeez....

Well that's a FIRST..

Something very wrong is going on..
Right... Maybe some fuel unburned going through the exhaust... very dangerous situation today. For a more clear picture: Today was 37 degrees Celsius but I think this has helped but it's not the reason...
 

pmmcanon

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Tomorrow morning I'll begin with the sparks, and I'll let you know how they are, I've been also checking the rear harness and despite of the plastic melt is ok :rolleyes:. To help you help me I'll try to provide all the info possible. The smell of the exhaust just after this episode was like a super rich mixture. The water temp was around 90 degrees (ok for our summer hell) and I found in a preliminary check that the pipe of cilynder 4 was a bit loose... The bike now starts but stalling not as hard as this afternoon :confused:
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Tomorrow morning I'll begin with the sparks, and I'll let you know how they are, I've been also checking the rear harness and despite of the plastic melt is ok :rolleyes:. To help you help me I'll try to provide all the info possible. The smell of the exhaust just after this episode was like a super rich mixture. The water temp was around 90 degrees (ok for our summer hell) and I found in a preliminary check that the **pipe of cylinder 4 was a bit loose... The bike now starts but stalling not as hard as this afternoon :confused:

**Loose at the "header to head" connection?

Also, is there any exhaust leakage (super hot air) around the top side of the CAT, where it goes into the muffler?

The excess fuel smell, especially with the new fuel pump leads me to think of a possible fuel leak, very probably the o-ring between the tank and the pump assembly.. Most times you can re-use the 0-ring. Fuel may have very well seeped out that seal.

It wouldn't explain the stalling, but would explain the smell...


*Several years ago, a member was stuck (several thousand miles from here, in the States) with that o-ring leaking and none available. I had a used one and "over-nighted" it to him so he could get going. He later replaced it once he got home from his road trip.. And the torque on those pump mounting bolts are NOT much..
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Duh.... Just came to me...

The TWO fuel tank lines, smaller lines (located at each lower side of the tank, inside edge), one is a vent and one is an overflow for /at the filler cap..

Did you pull those both back out when re-installing the tank? Their very easy to kink and if that vent is kinked, it will cause a vacuum in the tank (especially/worse when full) and hamper/stop fuel flow.. They just need to be gently tugged on and by feel, make sure there's no kinks. Both hoses should come out on the right side, down by the exhaust...

Pictured is my old tank innerds where the two lines would hook up to:

tank #2.JPG
 

pmmcanon

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**Loose at the "header to head" connection?

Also, is there any exhaust leakage (super hot air) around the top side of the CAT, where it goes into the muffler?

The excess fuel smell, especially with the new fuel pump leads me to think of a possible fuel leak, very probably the o-ring between the tank and the pump assembly.. Most times you can re-use the 0-ring. Fuel may have very well seeped out that seal.

It wouldn't explain the stalling, but would explain the smell...


*Several years ago, a member was stuck (several thousand miles from here, in the States) with that o-ring leaking and none available. I had a used one and "over-nighted" it to him so he could get going. He later replaced it once he got home from his road trip.. And the torque on those pump mounting bolts are NOT much..
Hi again Townsends,

The 4th cylinder cap spark was loose... not inserted fully but surely in contact with the head of the spark, the bike has been running ok for 130 km before the stalling.
The O-ring of the pump body to the tank is brand new ;), I decided to change it before mounting everything. Also the inner tubes of the tank were tested with compresed air and no kinks found, the tank cap was completely dismounted and checked... The outer tubes are in place, no kinks, cleaned and air compressed tested and routed by the correct path. There are no leaks in the fuel system as I've tested it carefully before riding.

Now I'm checking the sparks, don't look bad, no lean no too much richness (I'm attaching the pics in a separate post reply under this).

This is driving me crazy :rolleyes::rolleyes:
 

pmmcanon

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Sparks pictures
 

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