FZ6 2007 no spark cyl 2&3

[motoflesh]

Hello my friends I have problem with my Yamaha there is no spark on cyl 2&3...
As I read carefully all the posts here I try to follow but I stuck...
--Red wires on both gives me 12V
--Orange one it is in continuity no short to the chasis
--Grey one same
---what confuses me is that with out the ecu i have continuity between orange and grey (i think they can't be in communication) also i can see that there is communication between red wires and orange and red wires and grey..
---Doing the test at code 31 there is nothing...the light at the dashboard blinks 5 times no spark..at code 30 there is a spark..
---primary secondary resistance on both are in the specification...
Can you help please?

 

[Motogiro]

You can get continuity between your orange and gray wire if the coils are still attached through the primary red with black tracer. Your ohm meter will show a path through the attached primaries.
Interestingly in the original schematic there is a line that looks like it attaches the primary winding with the secondary winding in the coil pack. This doesn't look right at all.
I've redrawn the diagram for the coil pack because we can't use copyright material from Yamaha so please see attachment.
The ECU provides a ground path at each primary of each coil pack via transistors in the ECU. If the primary and secondary winding look okay there may be a bad ECU transistor or the the secondary may be arcing internally when the field builds where it fails, Do not test the ECU with your ohm meter.

 

[motoflesh]

Ok Thank you... I will check and report here...
Also will send some pictures
Thank you again

 

[motoflesh]

You can get continuity between your orange and gray wire if the coils are still attached through the primary red with black tracer. Your ohm meter will show a path through the attached primaries.
Interestingly in the original schematic there is a line that looks like it attaches the primary winding with the secondary winding in the coil pack. This doesn't look right at all.
I've redrawn the diagram for the coil pack because we can't use copyright material from Yamaha so please see attachment.
The ECU provides a ground path at each primary of each coil pack via transistors in the ECU. If the primary and secondary winding look okay there may be a bad ECU transistor or the the secondary may be arcing internally when the field builds where it fails, Do not test the ECU with your ohm meter.

New update...there is no connectivity and communication between orange&grey when could are not connected to red black wire...so as Motogiro says the coils are internally connected...
What confuses me is :
--d:62 there is number 1 which means I have one error...
--d:30 is 00
--d:31 is 00
--d:61 is 00
--d:63 is 00
Code 34 still appears on the dashboard
So if it is Ecu i will need new one but what than with the immo system on the bike?
Do I need new key switch also?

 

[Motogiro]

Good work!
Do you have a neutral safety light present in the dash while the key is on and the bike is in neutral?

Fault Code: 34
Diagnostic Code: 31
Symptom: Open circuit is detected in the primary lead of the ignition coil (# 2, #3).
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open circuit in wiring harness.
Malfunction in ignition coil.
Malfunction in ECU.
Malfunction in a component of ignition cut-off circuit system.

 

[motoflesh]

Good work!
Do you have a neutral safety light present in the dash while the key is on and the bike is in neutral?

Fault Code: 34
Diagnostic Code: 31
Symptom: Open circuit is detected in the primary lead of the ignition coil (# 2, #3).
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open circuit in wiring harness.
Malfunction in ignition coil.
Malfunction in ECU.
Malfunction in a component of ignition cut-off circuit system.

Yes neutral is present ... There was small problem (loosing contact in the connector) at the device located on the rear left tail side(when you sit on the bike)....but neutral is constantly present on the dashboard untill the bike is in neutral

 

[Motogiro]

You can switch the orange and gray wires on the coils and see if the failure of spark occurs on the cylinders 1 and 4 secondary. If there is spark on the cylinders 1 and 4 and now have failure on the cylinder 2 and 3 coil you'll be pretty sure you ECU transistor is okay and there is a failure in the coil or wire.
If this is the case, check the coil primary wire to ECU. Make sure the plug is unplugged from the ECU and also check that the ECU pin for that wire is present. We've had a case on the forum where the pin was compromised because water made it's way in.

There is also another way to check for spark operation of the coil by unplugging that gray wire, attaching a wire to the terminal and momentarily tapping the wire to ground. Just a momentary tap. Do not hold the wire to ground for long. Tap tap tap tap. You should get a spark. If you get a spark you now have to make sure the gray wire has continuity from the coil to the ECU and the pin on the ECU and ECU plug are good. If the continuity is good the probability is that the ECU transistor has failed.
I am not familiar with immobilizer info for ignition to ECU but I think some have purchased US model ECU and ignition switch to solve that problem.

 

[motoflesh]

You can switch the orange and gray wires on the coils and see if the failure of spark occurs on the cylinders 1 and 4 secondary. If there is spark on the cylinders 1 and 4 and now have failure on the cylinder 2 and 3 coil you'll be pretty sure you ECU transistor is okay and there is a failure in the coil or wire.
If this is the case, check the coil primary wire to ECU. Make sure the plug is unplugged from the ECU and also check that the ECU pin for that wire is present. We've had a case on the forum where the pin was compromised because water made it's way in.

There is also another way to check for spark operation of the coil by unplugging that gray wire, attaching a wire to the terminal and momentarily tapping the wire to ground. Just a momentary tap. Do not hold the wire to ground for long. Tap tap tap tap. You should get a spark. If you get a spark you now have to make sure the gray wire has continuity from the coil to the ECU and the pin on the ECU and ECU plug are good. If the continuity is good the probability is that the ECU transistor has failed.
I am not familiar with immobilizer info for ignition to ECU but I think some have purchased US model ECU and ignition switch to solve that problem.

Ok thanks... I will check that tommorow and will report...
Thanks again for the help

 

[motoflesh]

Ok thanks... I will check that tommorow and will report...
Thanks again for the help

Here is the update... Sorry for the late report but with the virus situation getting crazy here...i switch the orange and grey ..before i had spark on 1&4 cyl no spark on 2&3... After switching i get spark on 2&3 no spark on 1&4

 

[Motogiro]

Now pull the wire from the failing coil circuit. Disconnect the ECU plug and look for continuity between the coresponding plug pin on the ECU plug and the the failing coil. If you get continuity, the ECU transistor has failed.
If there is no continuity on that wire it is open circuit and that is the failed part.

 

[motoflesh]

Hello my friends I have problem with my Yamaha there is no spark on cyl 2&3...
As I read carefully all the posts here I try to follow but I stuck...
--Red wires on both gives me 12V
--Orange one it is in continuity no short to the chasis
--Grey one same
---what confuses me is that with out the ecu i have continuity between orange and grey (i think they can't be in communication) also i can see that there is communication between red wires and orange and red wires and grey..
---Doing the test at code 31 there is nothing...the light at the dashboard blinks 5 times no spark..at code 30 there is a spark..
---primary secondary resistance on both are in the specification...
Can you help please?

Problem solved thanks to this great forum and after changing the Ecu and coded keys switch...
Thank you friends

 

[Motogiro]

Great job! It's always hard to have to buy a new ECU but the good thing is you did the trouble shooting and found out what the problem was.

 

[motoflesh]

Great job! It's always hard to have to buy a new ECU but the good thing is you did the trouble shooting and found out what the problem was.

Again with the great help from you and this forum... THANK YOU AND GOD BLESS YOU