Fz6 doesn't start after long drives

mylo

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Hi guys , my bike recently was exposed to a lot of rain and I also power washed it :( n since then after I go on a long drive the bike won't start up with the electric start n it drains down the battery trying to start it .... Will jump start no problem ... I've had it in the bike shop twice this is the 3rd time now , 1st time " its just a flat battery " €30 cost for charging /labour ... 2nd time I brought it back with the same problem , he said it was the battery "regulator" never heard of that €180 cost + labour . it worked for a few days with no issue ,started back up no probs until I drove from work n stopped off in my mothers n when I went to go home it wouldn't start again n had to jump start . back in with the guy now n he's saying it might need a new fly wheel .. god knows how much that is .... The battery is good as he's checked it numerous times ...
Help / advice please before I need to go get a bank loan :rolleyes:
 
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FinalImpact

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Did you use any chemicals when washing? Water by itself is pretty harmless.

Obtain a hand held meter capable of testing voltage.

Measure the battery voltage while:
Cold and off for 2hours.
Key on, not running.
Key on cranking engine.
Engine idling.
Engine at 4000 rpm.
After returning from a ride.

Record all info above and post results.

PS- run from him/her if they try to sell you flywheel. You may need a stator or regulator rectifier but never a flywheel unless you crash hard.

Also take all connections apart between the battery, RR, and the Stator. Make sure they are all clean and tight.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Plus 1 ^^.. Either another bad battery or your electrical system isn't charging.

These are voltages of my battery when it was failing but you can see what voltages roughly you should be getting.
(battery was charged-should be around 12.8 stopped.-notice the lowish cranking voltage, that's failing)

My $ is your not getting no where's close to this. And as FI noted, I'd run from this guy period, find another shop.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/147134237@N06/29303851750/in/dateposted/




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mylo

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He said the battery is all fine he did all the tests ,he has never ripped me off before so I dunno why he's saying a flywheel is needed , any water wud be well evaporated at this stage , just so frustrating having to pay out so much (mostly lab our costs) for this issue , so i defo don't need a fly wheel its nothing to do with the problem

Edit : I just phoned him n he said he's tried every other possibility ,brushes in starting motor , wires are all good n conections all good ,he came across this before in a motocross bike he raced the fly wheel didn't complete the circuit magnets didnt do there job or whatever he was yapping on n on about !!! . guess I'll have to trust him ,he does know his **** n I know he's not a gangster just out for money
 
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Motogiro

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The flywheel can fail if there is a change in where the flywheel resides which is unlikely because there wouild be such a physical change that thee would be a lot of noise and damage. The earlier SV1000 series bikes were known for the magnets detaching from the fly wheel and of course there was little or nor charging.

I've never heard of this happening with the FZ6 and the flywheel on the FZ6 looks like it has a pretty bullet proof design. If the voltages at the battery are in fact good as well a passing a load test then look at the charging system. Why he's looking at the starter brushes is a mystery unless the charging system is not in question.

When a technician tests for these problems they will look at battery voltages under load. If it's not a starter delivery problem or charging system failure it could be an intermittent safety that is emulating the no start.

It's very hard for us to help when there may be a miscommunication in articulating what the symptom and testing actually is. I can tell you this, " I know 3 techs right here on this forum that could tell you what is failing if they could have hands on... :)
 

FinalImpact

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A shunt style current meter would provide an instant diagnosis as to where current is or is not flowing....

One does have to wonder which system is at fault here as it is not clear.

The tests outlined above (previous post) using a simple volt meter would help solve the mystery.

Granted you could have multiple failures but the permanent magnets of the flywheel ARE NOT the weakest link. All this bike needed was a charge/jump from a running car engine once in its life to lead to a latent regulator rectifier failure which could explain most of this....

Maybe the mechanic needed a new magnetic saucer to hold his nuts and bolts!!! Blah

Good luck!
 

mylo

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He has the bike 2 weeks I guess it cud be all bull**** as he hasn't actually done anything to the bike in that time , he's not ripped me off before but it seems from the advice here he may be I'll post back when I hear from him
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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He has the bike 2 weeks I guess it cud be all bull**** as he hasn't actually done anything to the bike in that time , he's not ripped me off before but it seems from the advice here he may be I'll post back when I hear from him


Have him start the bike with a volt meter hooked up to the battery.

As YOU WATCH, see if there's 12.8 volts not running. running-

SHOULD BE CLOSE TO 14 VOLTS at max RPM of 5,000 RPMs.
 

silasbr

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Hello Mylo,

Have you checked your vent into your tank?
If the vent line is clogged then after a longer ride the engine may not run since there might be a vacuum inside the tank preventing fuel from leaving.
Try to hear for a hissing noise when opening the tank cap after running for a while.

Got this from: http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...uel-pump-battery-charging-brake-bleeding.html

Cheers and good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

mylo

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update , a new battery was put in and the bike ran fine up u til today until the gremlin re appeared n the bike wouldn't start again the same ticking noise ask presses the start button had to run n 2nd gear start .... half way home cud feel less power n the engine red light came on . got home n n tried to restart the bike n got code 46 and error1 ,fml
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Can YOU invest in a $15 volt meter, attach it to the battery and see what the CHARGING VOLTAGE IS.

RED to Positive, BLACK to ground.

IF YOUR not seeing at least 13.5 volts charging (very likely are NOT), the engine is NOT charging the battery..


It very likely is NOT CHARGING, you've been running the bike off the new battery till it's dead.. It's NOT gremlins..



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mylo

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I got him to do all that n it did say 12.8 but that was the new battery ..n tbh I'd no ideal what it meant as that's the main issue the while time its not been charging ... I'll do it myself n report back , thanks scott
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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I got him to do all that n it did say 12.8 but that was the new battery ..n tbh I'd no ideal what it meant as that's the main issue the while time its not been charging ... I'll do it myself n report back , thanks scott

12.8 volts is strictly that of a NEW battery, normal. That is NOT CHARGING VOLTAGE.

PLEASE look at this video of my charging system: https://www.flickr.com/photos/147134237@N06/29303851750/in/dateposted/
(BTW, the battery was borderline with the dual headlight mod).

If your NOT SEEING voltages TO THE BATTERY, RUNNING as in the video, the engine is NOT CHARGING and killing the battery..


Charge the battery back up if possible.

Then post what #'s your seeing not running, running and revving up to 5K RPMs.

YOU need to confirm if it's charging or not, period..

$1.00 says you don't see over 13 volts EVER as it sits...

BTW, it's OFTEN reported the bike does NOT charge at low RPM's. That is flat out wrong...
I have my idle set at 1,100 warm, dual headlights and it still charges...


.
 

Motogiro

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charger is saying its full 13.64 off n leaving for a minute running its 14.14 n revving 2500 its staying at14.14

Have the Regulator/Rectified(R/R) plug/s been checked? There may be an intermittent connection at one or more pins. If the pins look good you may have a bad diode in the R/R that is allowing current leakage which discharges the battery even with the key in the off position.

My conclusion, given the present information, is that you may have a poor connection at the R/R plug/s.
 

Gary in NJ

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The R/R is easy to check. There are four pins that are in two pairs. Putting your multi meter in Diode check mode, you simply connect the wire pairs. In one configuration you should see continuity and by flipping the red & black leads from the meter that continuity will disappear. Each pair works in exactly the opposite manner.

I don't have the FSM in front of me, but when there is continuity the multi meter should provide a resistance in mili-ohms (like 500 or so). This reading should be within 10% between the pairs. If it checks out, reassemble using dielectric grease.
 
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