FZ6 RESTO.

[Kevf1]

Hey y'all, I've been instructed to start my thread here, so bear with me Just bought a (first gen?) FZ6 (2006) that's been sitting for years. Going to do my best to get her up and running on the road. Will be my first bike of the type and limited it experience in bike, but have restored quite a few cars over the years. Looking forward to meeting some cool people that enjoy this ride

 

[Gary in NJ]

Regarding the front wheel lock, are you sure that the key set is original to the bike? It’s possible that the ignition and fuel tank are replacements (they are sold together as a kit) and the seat and wheel lock still use the original key. Does the key work the seat lock?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Looks like a very good starting point, congrates!

.

 

[bigdog9191999]

Huh?? I didn't read or see anything regarding ^^..

was another post that he had made.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

was another post that he had made.

Yep, just saw it..

 

[Kevf1]

Regarding the front wheel lock, are you sure that the key set is original to the bike? It’s possible that the ignition and fuel tank are replacements (they are sold together as a kit) and the seat and wheel lock still use the original key. Does the key work the seat lock?

It’s the original lock and it’s the same key. After 24+ hours of drenching it in penetrating oil and using compressed air, I was getting nowhere… decided to use some old-school percussion energy, and with the help of the previous owner’s stubby ball peen hammer. I just beat on the lock cylinder case, and beat on it some more and voila, very slowly the key began to turn. With a little more beating and coaxing I got her unlock and turned on. The battery, which was installed new a week or so before being parked, was understandably very low, so with some finagling with my jump pack, I was able to light up the instrument cluster to get the mileage. Now I can get her registered. I can’t for the life of me understand how I’d be able to jump start her since you really can’t get a bite on the terminals or even if I should attempt that method. I’d also appreciate any input on anything I should do before turning her over. I know you have mentioned scoring the cylinders, and I certainly don’t want to do that, but this isn’t a ‘48 Willys so getting to the plugs to drop in some mystery oil isn’t really looking practical. Since there’s no Kickstarter to turn over the crank slowly, what would you recommend? And again thanks for being there for me

 

[Gary in NJ]

There are a couple of ways to lube the cylinders; one good and one not so good - but better than nothing. But before we get to that...

A known problem for FZ's that have been sitting for a long time is corrosion in the fuel tank. While this can be flushed out, the bigger issue is that the corrosion can clog the screen on the fuel pump. Every time you turn the key to the "on" position, the fuel pump primes the fuel system for start. Everytime it primes, you run the risk of sending corrosion into the fuel rail. So in my opinion, step one here is to remove the fuel tank and remove the fuel pump assembly. This way you can easily drain the tank of the bad fuel in the tank and have an opportunity to inspect the fuel pump assembly for corrosion. If you are lucky you can simply clean the screen, and reassemble. If it looks like a pile of red mud, we can talk further.

With the tank removed, you're fairly close to getting to the spark plugs. The best method to condition the cylinders and piston rings is to remove the spark plugs and add a capfull of Marvelous Mystery Oil (MMO) to each cylinder. Let this first dose sit for 30-60 minutes, and then add another capfull of MMO. After that has sat for 10 minutes, go ahead and engage the starter for 15 seconds. Be sure to put a rag over the cylinder head/valve cover otherwise you'll have quite a mess to clean up. It's also helpful to spray some lube (WD-40 is fine) into the throttle bodies (TB) prior to cranking over the engine (without spark plugs), this will help save the valve guides. This is the correct way to refresh the cylinder walls. You could spray WD-40 into each TB, turning the engine 1/4 turn at the nut at the stator, and repeating this process 8 times. But the truth is, you want to see the spark plugs anyway. Don't take a short cut...it could cost you in the long run.

Looking at the corrosion on the bike raises some red flags too. First, get some 00 steel wool and polish the rotors clean. I would bleed the brakes before even trying to see if they work.

Soak that chain in lube. Check for any stuck links. A stuck link is a bad chain and a bad chain will eat your sprockets. Make sure the slack is within spec.

Lube all of the cables before exercising them.

With the tank removed you have good access to a few of the main electrical connections. Disconnect each electrical connector and spray both sides with contact cleaner. Reassemble with dielectric grease. There are also electrical connections behind the side panels and at the instrument cluster. Pay close attention to the kill switch on the throttle grip. It's known to fail due to corrosion, causing intermittent running problems. At a minimum, rock it back and forth 20-40 times - but the correct thing to do is to disassemble the grip and clean the contacts (this too gets dielectric grease after cleaning).

Check your coolant level and color.

Check the tires for cracks or strange wear. Top 'em off to 36psi (F) and 42psi (R). Check the date codes on the tires. Sitting outside for so long I suspect they are UV damaged. If they are older than 7 years - don't trust them with your life. They'll be OK for a quick check-out ride, but if they are old and cracked...replace them.

With all of this done, you should be good for a start. After the first warm up you can change the oil and filter.

Lastly, why was this bike parked and left alone for so long? There might be an underlying issue with the bike that may need to be addressed. Talk with the prior owner and see why he originally parked the bike.

 

[Kevf1]

There are a couple of ways to lube the cylinders; one good and one not so good - but better than nothing. But before we get to that...

A known problem for FZ's that have been sitting for a long time is corrosion in the fuel tank. While this can be flushed out, the bigger issue is that the corrosion can clog the screen on the fuel pump. Every time you turn the key to the "on" position, the fuel pump primes the fuel system for start. Everytime it primes, you run the risk of sending corrosion into the fuel rail. So in my opinion, step one here is to remove the fuel tank and remove the fuel pump assembly. This way you can easily drain the tank of the bad fuel in the tank and have an opportunity to inspect the fuel pump assembly for corrosion. If you are lucky you can simply clean the screen, and reassemble. If it looks like a pile of red mud, we can talk further.

With the tank removed, you're fairly close to getting to the spark plugs. The best method to condition the cylinders and piston rings is to remove the spark plugs and add a capfull of Marvelous Mystery Oil (MMO) to each cylinder. Let this first dose sit for 30-60 minutes, and then add another capfull of MMO. After that has sat for 10 minutes, go ahead and engage the starter for 15 seconds. Be sure to put a rag over the cylinder head/valve cover otherwise you'll have quite a mess to clean up. It's also helpful to spray some lube (WD-40 is fine) into the throttle bodies (TB) prior to cranking over the engine (without spark plugs), this will help save the valve guides. This is the correct way to refresh the cylinder walls. You could spray WD-40 into each TB, turning the engine 1/4 turn at the nut at the stator, and repeating this process 8 times. But the truth is, you want to see the spark plugs anyway. Don't take a short cut...it could cost you in the long run.

Looking at the corrosion on the bike raises some red flags too. First, get some 00 steel wool and polish the rotors clean. I would bleed the brakes before even trying to see if they work.

Soak that chain in lube. Check for any stuck links. A stuck link is a bad chain and a bad chain will eat your sprockets. Make sure the slack is within spec.

Lube all of the cables before exercising them.

With the tank removed you have good access to a few of the main electrical connections. Disconnect each electrical connector and spray both sides with contact cleaner. Reassemble with dielectric grease. There are also electrical connections behind the side panels and at the instrument cluster. Pay close attention to the kill switch on the throttle grip. It's known to fail due to corrosion, causing intermittent running problems. At a minimum, rock it back and forth 20-40 times - but the correct thing to do is to disassemble the grip and clean the contacts (this too gets dielectric grease after cleaning).

Check your coolant level and color.

Check the tires for cracks or strange wear. Top 'em off to 36psi (F) and 42psi (R). Check the date codes on the tires. Sitting outside for so long I suspect they are UV damaged. If they are older than 7 years - don't trust them with your life. They'll be OK for a quick check-out ride, but if they are old and cracked...replace them.

With all of this done, you should be good for a start. After the first warm up you can change the oil and filter.

Lastly, why was this bike parked and left alone for so long? There might be an underlying issue with the bike that may need to be addressed. Talk with the prior owner and see why he originally parked the bike.

I asked her and she said just before she parked it it was running a little rough. The tank has very little fuel in it, and I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't bad fuel to begin with but then that's a guess. It also has a Dynojet module under the seat, which she wasn't aware of, and I don't know enough about to consider it to be, or not to be, part of the issue. I didn't come here to SF to buy the bike, it was a whim, while housesitting for a friend of mine. I have no tools with me but a decent selection at home. Good to hear MMO is still the go to when it comes to priming the cylinder walls . The throttle is stiff so I don't want to force it but might have buggered it up since I did run it through it's range of motion once or twice after attempting to lube the throttle handle TIres look great and were replaced just before she parked it. I've got steel wool at home so will give it a buff before attempting to ride. Chain looks a mess and I've cleaned it somewhat but read somewhere to use a lubricant safe for O-rings? Any advice on what kind would be appreciated. Going to check the coolant now, and head to the shop for some dielectric grease and I'll check the fuel tank/pump. Thanks again for all your help

 

[Gary in NJ]

The truth of the matter, regular gear oil is the best lube for an o-ring chain.

Regarding the sticky throttle, it could be the cable, but it could also be the throttle bodies themselves. There's another reason to shoot WD-40 into the throttle bodies.

A bike that has sat 4 blocks from the ocean for a few years is going to have all sorts of issues - all related to corrosion. Is there anyway you can get the bike on a pickup truck to get it home. It might be difficult to get this bike functional (and safe) with borrowed tools. Seriously, this bike probably needs a good disassembly-cleaning-reassembly. It's gonna be hard to do in a parking space.

 

[Kevf1]

Looks like a very good starting point, congrates!

.

I’m a sucker for a challenge, and appreciate your sentiment I’ve missed my old bike for over 3 years, basically the same amount of time this has been parked. It’s been waiting for me all this time

 

[Kevf1]

The truth of the matter, regular gear oil is the best lube for an o-ring chain.

Regarding the sticky throttle, it could be the cable, but it could also be the throttle bodies themselves. There's another reason to shoot WD-40 into the throttle bodies.

A bike that has sat 4 blocks from the ocean for a few years is going to have all sorts of issues - all related to corrosion. Is there anyway you can get the bike on a pickup truck to get it home. It might be difficult to get this bike functional (and safe) with borrowed tools. Seriously, this bike probably needs a good disassembly-cleaning-reassembly. It's gonna be hard to do in a parking space.

I just happen to have a fresh bottle of synthetic valvoline gear oil I bought mistakingly for my car, i didn’t throw it out and now I know why I want to do what I can, and my biggest concern right now is the fuel system. I’m in contact with the shop that the previous owner bought the bike, and the contact person there has been straight up and very nice. Just driving from the house I’m staying, to soma sf, about 5 miles, in my car has me convinced, that I need this baby running ASAP

 

[Kevf1]

Looks like a very good starting point, congrates!

.

Thanks Scott, would love to see some of the accessories you have listed on your profile, especially the racks and the electrical outlet

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Don't have a pic of the rack but I'll snap/post one later today.

I do make a helmet lock bracket and as noted, the electrical outlet bracket (for a BMW style 12 volt outlet). Some pic's:


Bracket not painted yet(silver, aluminum), clamps around the right side ONLY sub frame,
no mods to the bike for all brackets-Fits all year FZ's All are painted either black or
frame matching silver.


Single outlet



My outlet (permanent) is off to the right, the silver one is a double (not painted yet).
I have mine wired, with a fuse direct to the battery so it can be used with a battery charger
portable 12 volt compressor, etc.

 

[Gary in NJ]

The helmet lock is a great idea. When I don’t feel like carrying my helmet I hang it off the right side passenger footpeg. It’s only a matter of time before I come back to a helmet that isn’t there…or sitting on the ground.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The helmet lock is a great idea. When I don’t feel like carrying my helmet I hang it off the right side passenger footpeg. It’s only a matter of time before I come back to a helmet that isn’t there…or sitting on the ground.

I've been making them (both brackets for years and) for many bikes, BMW's and mostly FJR's. A popular FJR is a combo bracket:





No outlets, (same silver as the FZ):

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The helmet lock is a great idea. When I don’t feel like carrying my helmet I hang it off the right side passenger footpeg. It’s only a matter of time before I come back to a helmet that isn’t there…or sitting on the ground.

One of my first customers FZ from 2014:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The rear rack is a Yamaha (bought from overseas) part that clamps around the grab bar(I believe for a rear storage box).

The plate I attached is aluminum, trimmed to fit.. It really doesn't look bad from the side (or from atop) and is used very often for bungee'ing down about anything.

 

[bigdog9191999]

The rear rack is a Yamaha (bought from overseas) part that clamps around the grab bar(I believe for a rear storage box).

The plate I attached is aluminum, trimmed to fit.. It really doesn't look bad from the side (or from atop) and is used very often for bungee'ing down about anything.

View attachment 74257View attachment 74258View attachment 74259View attachment 74260

View attachment 74261

i really like that. wish i could talk the wife into that and put on a small top box when wanted. but she just sticks with her tank bag, and makes me bring the goldwing when we need to haul more.

 

[Kevf1]

Well I've gone to a locked up sad rusted and neglected bike to one that's slowly coming back. Thanks to all of the feedback and great advice. She still needs loving, and I'm definitely going to have a pro go over her and get the 26k valve adjustment. I'd love to learn more about the handlebar extensions I've read about and maybe some seat mods for those, like me that want to do more touring, but what a machine. She's got an aftermarket exhaust, which I can't identify, and while doing some mild shakedown runs in the streets of San Francisco lol, and having so many people checking me out wondering what's up, I know that this is a bike for the open road. First shakedown cruise

 

[gnyce]

Well I've gone to a locked up sad rusted and neglected bike to one that's slowly coming back. Thanks to all of the feedback and great advice. She still needs loving, and I'm definitely going to have a pro go over her and get the 26k valve adjustment.

Love the sentiment there! I'm a sucker for bringing-bikes-back-to-life/recovery stories. I'm by no means skilled, but have fumbled my way through a few of them, to have (not pristine/show horses but) daily drivers with bikes from 1980s/1990s. I think I've given up my idea of moving on to doing a car someday... too much bodywork. Something simple, direct, boiled down to the essence with a motorcycle. Good luck and keep going, man...

RE: the exhaust - no labeling? Can't tell from the pictures, but Akrapovic, and Dominator had styles like that. Or could be a knock-off of some sort.