fz6-S 2004 new exhaust rpm goes crazy

KokkakiasGr

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Good morning to everyone .fz6
I have a problem with my baby.
I removed the catalytic converter and added a 60 cm diameter hand made exhaust.
I just have a problem with the idle now it just warms up.
it goes up and down. As if I increase the gas for a second then leave it and the same again. see the video on the page I added to see what I mean.

https://www.facebook.com/emotoconck...rmup-yamaha-r6-yzfr6-emotoga/614238019282855/

If anyone knows an easy solution to solve this, please let me know. Thank you very much
 

Motogiro

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The term for this is hunting. The bike back pressure is so reduced the air to fuel ratio at idle is too lean.
If you put your CAT back you'll have an improvement. You could also install an expensive fuel management device and have the bike tuned or adjust the CO1/CO2 but you want to know the A/F ratio. Putting the CAT back is a more economical solution and you don't want the bike running too lean.
 

KokkakiasGr

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I tried it with the cat on but again the same problem. I will try to crank up the c1-c2 measurements if that does not do something i will go to a professional and solve the problem if i cant find anything else
 

Gary in NJ

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What else besides the exhaust (cat & slip-on) did you remove to make the change to the bike? Is there something that you removed to make the work easier that perhaps you didn't reinstall? Did you accidentally disconnect something as you were sliding out any part of the exhaust? A number of the fuel control parts are located just ahead of the cat between the frame.
 

KokkakiasGr

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Nothing my friend i dint disconnect anything else. But i have connected a booster plug . Maybe that is making a problem ? I will try disconnect it and see what happens
 

Motogiro

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Right now it looks like there's no real way to see what your air to fuel ratio is unless you can sample the exhaust. The booster plug may not be performing it's function properly.
At this point you are experiencing an idle that could be anything from a dirty IAC valve to air to fuel problems. There are also temp and air pressure sensors that the ECU looks at to determine how fueling is determined.
 

KokkakiasGr

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Right now it looks like there's no real way to see what your air to fuel ratio is unless you can sample the exhaust. The booster plug may not be performing it's function properly.
At this point you are experiencing an idle that could be anything from a dirty IAC valve to air to fuel problems. There are also temp and air pressure sensors that the ECU looks at to determine how fueling is determined.
yea. the thing is the ecu and injection system should have cleared out the fuel ratio its not a full exhaust system . its just a slip on . and a decat pipe. have the same bike a friend of mine worked just fine. anyhow. i would look what you say maybe sync the throttle bodies and then loose the boosgplug.. thanks. if you have any idea maybe let me know
 

KokkakiasGr

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Lol,I added a dodad to the harness…and now I can’t figure out why the bike won’t idle.

This is the problem.
it worked just fine before my guy theres no point turning back now either way this loop going parallel with the stock sensor so if it was damage it would grab the info the bikes need from the stock sensor. so there is no point in assuming its that thinks fault.
 

Gary in NJ

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I read the installation guide for the "Boosterplug". It gets plugged into the harness where Intake Air Temperature (IAT) resides up by the airbox.

The IAT is a two-wire resisitive element sensor (Brown/White and Black/blue wires) with a normal range of 2.2 to 2.7 kΩ @ 20C. To measure the circuit you would put the positive probe on the Br/Wh wire. So at BEST, the Boostplug is causing the sensor to read towards the higher end of the normal range to trick the fuel map into thinking it's always 32-35C (90-95F). At worst it is just a useless item that you spent $170 on...aka snake oil. You could get the same effect by plugging a $0.10 2.7 kΩ resistor into the harness.

Of course you can see in real time what the boosterplug does just by looking at the temperature reading on the instrument cluster. The data comes from the same sensor.

So if the Boostplug is inadvertently providing a variable reading between 2.2 to 2.7 kΩ - the ECU believes that the ambient air temperature is going from 10C to 35C or something in between. This is probably why the idle is erratic.

Let us know
 

KokkakiasGr

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I read the installation guide for the "Boosterplug". It gets plugged into the harness where Intake Air Temperature (IAT) resides up by the airbox.

The IAT is a two-wire resisitive element sensor (Brown/White and Black/blue wires) with a normal range of 2.2 to 2.7 kΩ @ 20C. To measure the circuit you would put the positive probe on the Br/Wh wire. So at BEST, the Boostplug is causing the sensor to read towards the higher end of the normal range to trick the fuel map into thinking it's always 32-35C (90-95F). At worst it is just a useless item that you spent $170 on...aka snake oil. You could get the same effect by plugging a $0.10 2.7 kΩ resistor into the harness.

Of course you can see in real time what the boosterplug does just by looking at the temperature reading on the instrument cluster. The data comes from the same sensor.

So if the Boostplug is inadvertently providing a variable reading between 2.2 to 2.7 kΩ - the ECU believes that the ambient air temperature is going from 10C to 35C or something in between. This is probably why the idle is erratic.

Let us know
Worked just fine and the difference was tragic with the bike on first use. I will try to remove it and let you know. Thanks.
 
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