FZ6 Sputtering and stalling

ceaserleo

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hello friends. ive been looking all over the web for help with my particular problem. my 2007 fz6 has been stalling and then sometimes the engine will jerk badly back on and rev high, but when i pull in clutch to down shift to make a stop the rpm plummets and it dies almost immediately. the bike will die even when im twisting the throttle (no clutch) and jerk back to life in an ugly way. i just changed the spark plugs. i installed new iridium plugs as well as did the oil change. i made sure to check the gap on the plugs. all checked out. could someone point me to a thread or a solution that could help. my bike has only 10500 miles on it and has been babied pretty much. i have an aftermarket full akrapovic exhaust system with a power commander 3. the old spark plugs were a light brown color. not too dark. your help on this matter would mean the absolute world to me!!
 

Gary in NJ

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This really could be anything; from a jumped timing gear to a failing ECU to a failed O2 sensor. We need additional information. What error codes are you getting on the instrument cluster? Are all 4 header pipes getting hot (use an IR thermometer, not your hands)? Has a mouse had a home in one of the throttle bodies?
 

ceaserleo

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Huh, how would I use gauge cluster to check for an error code. The bike is new to me only owned it for a month. Previous owner did basic maintenance, fluid changes. I have been riding it regularly for about an hour a day since buying it. Last week I want to say is when I’d be out on a ride and the engine would jerk a bit when giving it maintenance throttle but I assumed I let it slip and was experiencing jerking cuz I was giving choppy throttle. How could I check a throttle body ? I don’t think so cuz it was kept in my pretty clean garage. I changed the battery the first day I got it, I noticed a snipped wire on top of front tire. When I’m home I’ll post some photos and try to follow where it’s running from.
 

Gary in NJ

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From the FSM:

ECU’S SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION The ECU is equipped with a self-diagnostic function in order to ensure that the engine control system is operating normally. If this function detects a malfunction in the system, it immediately operates the engine under substitute characteristics and illuminates the engine trouble warning light to alert the rider that a malfunction has occurred in the system. Once a malfunction has been detected, a fault code is stored in the memory of the ECU.

- To inform the rider that the fuel injection system is not functioning, the engine trouble warning light flashes when the start switch is being pushed to start the engine.
- If a malfunction is detected in the system by the self-diagnostic function, this mode provides an appropriate substitute characteristic operation, and alerts the rider of the detected malfunction by illuminating an engine trouble warning light.
- After the engine has been stopped, the lowest fault code number appears on the LCD meter. Once a fault code has been displayed, it remains stored in the memory of the ECU until it is deleted.
 

ceaserleo

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So on the gauge cluster I should see a code pop up when it dies? I have seen the engine light on when starting it after a stall, do I need any special tool to get the code ?
 

Motogiro

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Many times this condition is a result of intermittent continuity of the red kill switch.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Plus 3 to all the above..

Question, ... Has the bike been running good all this month (or so) and then start acting up suddenly?

If so, might want to check your fuel, or where you fueled up at least.. With all the odd behavior, might have gotten some bad fuel (water/crap ) in it.. Siphon some out of the deepest part of the tank if you can into a CLEAN container for examination..

**Bad fuel will NOT pop any codes...


.
 

ceaserleo

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  1. Plus 3 to all the above..

    Question, ... Has the bike been running good all this month (or so) and then start acting up suddenly?

    If so, might want to check your fuel, or where you fueled up at least.. With all the odd behavior, might have gotten some bad fuel (water/crap ) in it.. Siphon some out of the deepest part of the tank if you can into a CLEAN container for examination..

    **Bad fuel will NOT pop any codes...


    .
    Youre a genius just realized I filled up almost a full tank just the other day before it got really jerky... I’ve noticed it’s always been a little clunky but I think I just stink at shifting still haha
 

ceaserleo

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I found this wire clipped under tank by front tire.. I don’t remember seeing it around before. It looks like it’s getting kinked under the “triple tree” I think that’s what it’s called
 

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TownsendsFJR1300

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I found this wire clipped under tank by front tire.. I don’t remember seeing it around before. It looks like it’s getting kinked under the “triple tree” I think that’s what it’s called

It's hard to tell from your pic ( maybe back up some or take the pic outside with more light)

*If you have aftermarket directional's, they usually DON'T have the running light attached/used (thus another wire not used).
(The stock directional's would have 3 wires to it, ground, running and directional.)

I think you do have stock directionals so dis-regard the above.


Your going to have to follow it and see where it goes... Any electrical parts not working? The stock horn goes under the triple tree but that has TWO wires going to it so, that's probably not it.. Not much other STOCK wiring in that area.....

Lastly, put a 12 volt test light on it, (light grounded) and check for voltage, key on/off/crank, etc..



Re the fuel... Might be best to remove the tank, flip it upside down to drain it all.. Flush with some fuel before re-installing. The less crap you further pump in there, the better... And you can confirm/see crap/water in what you pull out of it..

.
 
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ceaserleo

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Just followed it and pulled it out to see where it leads
It's hard to tell from your pic ( maybe back up some or take the pic outside with more light)

*If you have aftermarket directional's, they usually DON'T have the running light attached/used (thus another wire not used)

The stock directional's would have 3 wires to it, ground, running and directional.

Re the fuel... Might be best to remove the tank, flip it upside down to drain it all.. Flush with some fuel before re-installing. The less crap you further pump in there, the better... And you can confirm/see crap/water in what you pull out of it..

.
i think have the stock lights cuz they are big and ugly.. heres where it led too.. and here’s the bike. Would a video of how the bike sounds running help??
 

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ceaserleo

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OKAY SO. The cut cable that I found... if I twist it it makes the bike make the same soundit does when you first turn the key like the low WIRR that it does for a few seconds before you slap the starter button. I kept twisting and sure enough it does it over and over again. My power commander would blink on I’m assuming cuz it’s getting power....
 

ceaserleo

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OKAY SO. The cut cable that I found... if I twist it it makes the bike make the same soundit does when you first turn the key like the low WIRR that it does for a few seconds before you slap the starter button. I kept twisting and sure enough it does it over and over again. My power commander would blink on I’m assuming cuz it’s getting power....
After more twisting of the wire it start smoking so I just turned the key off and left it.....
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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That "wirr" sound is the fuel pump I(inside the fuel tank) priming up-Usually 2-3 seconds on initial start up. Normal

That rats nest of wires (zipped tied together) is not stock but in the third pic, I cannot tell how /if it's attached to that factory plug...

The aftermarket fuel controller should be tapped into a 12 volt source.

Is that "mystery line" 12 volts ALL THE TIME THE KEY IS ON?

.
 

ceaserleo

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That "wirr" sound is the fuel pump I(inside the fuel tank) priming up-Usually 2-3 seconds on initial start up. Normal

That rats nest of wires (zipped tied together) is not stock but in the third pic, I cannot tell how /if it's attached to that factory plug...

The aftermarket fuel controller should be tapped into a 12 volt source.

Is that "mystery line" 12 volts ALL THE TIME THE KEY IS ON?

.
Are you asking me to check it with a voltometer ? Bike doesn’t need to be on right ?
 

ceaserleo

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That "wirr" sound is the fuel pump I(inside the fuel tank) priming up-Usually 2-3 seconds on initial start up. Normal

That rats nest of wires (zipped tied together) is not stock but in the third pic, I cannot tell how /if it's attached to that factory plug...

The aftermarket fuel controller should be tapped into a 12 volt source.

Is that "mystery line" 12 volts ALL THE TIME THE KEY IS ON?

.
It’s connected to the white group of wires with another green and red wire out of it as well....
 

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TownsendsFJR1300

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We don't know what it's for. Your latest pic shows MORE, after market wiring, taps into factory lines, :(

Yes, a volt meter or test light, touched to the bare end of the wire will tell you WHEN IT'S HOT. That means checking while OFF, while ignition is on, while cranking, etc. It may run direct to the battery and is hot all the time...

The one pic looks like two wires going to the throttle body/TB adjuster- There shouldn't be ANY WIRING THERE..

Might want to check where your aftermarket fueler goes to, how that's wired-if it's possibly wired into this mess...


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