Gaskets for aftermarket exhaust?

trepetti

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I am in the process of installing my new Dominator exhaust, and where the union where the new 'Y' pipe meets the existing up-pipe is way too tight to put the stock gasket back in. My first inclination is to just fit the pipes together and tighten it up.

If you have fitted an aftermarket exhaust, did you use a gasket (stock or otherwise) or did you just clamp it up?
 

Gary in NJ

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It's been 10 years since I installed my exhaust (I installed it for the previous owner), but my relocation is that there is no gasket, it's just a slip joint. This is true for most aftermarket slip-ons.
 

trepetti

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It's been 10 years since I installed my exhaust (I installed it for the previous owner), but my relocation is that there is no gasket, it's just a slip joint. This is true for most aftermarket slip-ons.

Thanks Gary. That's the route I took. Finalized the install today. Next task is the back-end electricals to install new Hyperlites. If the weather is good tomorrow I will likely throw in the battery and make some noise. Can't wait to hear the sound of the new exhaust.
 

trepetti

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Thanks Gary. That's the route I took. Finalized the install today. Next task is the back-end electricals to install new Hyperlites. If the weather is good tomorrow I will likely throw in the battery and make some noise. Can't wait to hear the sound of the new exhaust.

It is ALIVE!!!!! Wow, love the sound. Oddly it doesn't seem louder than my drilled-out stock exhaust. But the tone is marvelous..... On my S1, it smelled a little rich on startup. I thought that was peculiar as I expected the improved VE to bush the fueling towards the lean side.

I do have a PowerCommander Fuel Controller which I installed and tuned to eliminate decel popping after the old exhaust was drilled out, and I am positive it needs adjusting or possibly removal.

Gotta get moving on the remainder of the todo list and get back in the saddle....
 

trepetti

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Back in the saddle yet?

Almost too embarrassed to say no. Was finishing up my maintenance when I started the task to replace the chain. Took off the sprocket cover and holy crap, no sprocket nut! Have NO idea when it spun off, no recollection of any odd noises or sounds from last ride of 2021.

In the time since I replaced the chain last time, I replaced my 3/4 torque wench which recently proved itself to have been seriously under tightening. But the tang of the lock washer should have retained the nut, so this one is on me. No damage to the splines, engine case or anything. I got REAL lucky.

Anyway, new nut and washer on the way from Partzilla. Will be here tomorrow. This weekend for shure.
 

trepetti

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Good advice. I enjoy spending my time trying to help other riders prevent and recover from simple mistakes. It's humbling to remember that we are all just one stupid decision away from big problems.

I may WELD mine :)
 

Gary in NJ

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Your torque wrench can be calibrated. For a 3/8 drive I use a 25 pound weight (with a measured weight of 24.6 pounds). My torque wrench is 16" long or 1.333 feet where the adjustment handle is closest to the shaft. I place the wrench in a vice, clamping the socket receiver in the jaws. Hang the weight from the handle at the 1.333 foot location. Both my weight and strap weigh 25.5 pounds, so I set the torque wrench at 34 ft-lbs. Allow the weight to settle on the handle. If the wrench doesn't click, I have to adjust the calibration nut to pull the handle closer to the pivot (make the wrench shorter). If it clicked before I fully released the weight I need to lengthen the handle. I do this back and forth process until I get a repeatable result.

For my 1/2' drive I use around 50 pounds and for my 1/4" drive I use 10 pounds. My 1/2 drive has a 20" handle so I multiply the weight (weight+strap) by 1.667 and the 1/4" drive has a 9" handle so the calibration weight is multiplied by 0.75.
 

trepetti

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Your torque wrench can be calibrated. For a 3/8 drive I use a 25 pound weight (with a measured weight of 24.6 pounds). My torque wrench is 16" long or 1.333 feet where the adjustment handle is closest to the shaft. I place the wrench in a vice, clamping the socket receiver in the jaws. Hang the weight from the handle at the 1.333 foot location. Both my weight and strap weigh 25.5 pounds, so I set the torque wrench at 34 ft-lbs. Allow the weight to settle on the handle. If the wrench doesn't click, I have to adjust the calibration nut to pull the handle closer to the pivot (make the wrench shorter). If it clicked before I fully released the weight I need to lengthen the handle. I do this back and forth process until I get a repeatable result.

For my 1/2' drive I use around 50 pounds and for my 1/4" drive I use 10 pounds. My 1/2 drive has a 20" handle so I multiply the weight (weight+strap) by 1.667 and the 1/4" drive has a 9" handle so the calibration weight is multiplied by 0.75.
Last year I bought one of these.... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085WMOOU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Going to take a crack at calibrating the 'bad' 3/4 wrench...
 

trepetti

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Dumb drive-sprocket question. Just got the new nut and lock washer.

Side 1 is recessed and side 2 is flush. When I fit the lock washer to the shaft, the splines stand proud of the washer. This tells me that side 1 faces the sprocket, allowing the splines to fit into the recess and allowing the surface of the nut to bear down in the washer/sprocket. Because of the recess, this means that the not will not have full purchase on the threads. Installing it the other way will cause the nut to bear down on the splines and not on the washer. This is the only way to get the nut to clamp the sprocket.... unless this is the wrong nut.

The part number is correct according to Partzilla, but I have not had the nut off for many years and I don't have the original nut to reference :-(

Can someone give me a sanity check?

Thanks

Side-2.jpgSide-1.jpg
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Dumb drive-sprocket question. Just got the new nut and lock washer.

Side 1 is recessed and side 2 is flush. When I fit the lock washer to the shaft, the splines stand proud of the washer. This tells me that side 1 faces the sprocket, allowing the splines to fit into the recess and allowing the surface of the nut to bear down in the washer/sprocket.

Because of the recess, this means that the not will not have full purchase on the threads. Nope, same threads no matter which way you install it.

Installing it the other way will cause the nut to bear down on the splines and not on the washer. This is the only way to get the nut to clamp the sprocket.... unless this is the wrong nut.

The part number is correct according to Partzilla, but I have not had the nut off for many years and I don't have the original nut to reference :-(

Can someone give me a sanity check?

Thanks

View attachment 74956View attachment 74957


I believe the "recess", as you've posted, goes in towards the sprocket.

You still have exactly the same threads securing the sprocket, the nut is just hollowed out
to clear the splines and allow the tab to grab the splines.

IE, It'll only go on one way to TIGHTEN the sprocket..
 

trepetti

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I believe the "recess", as you've posted, goes in towards the sprocket.

You still have exactly the same threads securing the sprocket, the nut is just hollowed out
to clear the splines and allow the tab to grab the splines.

IE, It'll only go on one way to TIGHTEN the sprocket..

Yep. I wire wheeled the threads to clean them up and installed the nut with the recess towards the sprocket with red locktite :)
Oh, and I peened the washer down nice and flat.

Next up, new chain and then..... 1st ride of the season.....
 
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