Have I lost my mind?

Raevyn00

New Member
I was thinking of selling my FZ6 because it killed a brand new battery twice, and I have the thing listed to sell to buy an FZ7/MT7...
Then I remembered that you can turn the Fz6 into a naked.
Was reading some threads on here about the conversion and wondering what the total level of effort is to do the conversion for the headlights and remount the speedometer and dash etc.
I found this link already posted by Gary From Nj
https://speedmotoco.com/black-headlight-bracket-motorcycle-cafe-bobber-streetfighter-32mm-through-58mm/ for the headlight mount, but wondering what else I need overall.
Any help or guidance is appreciated
 

Gary in NJ

Junior Member
Site Supporter
I have used those brackets on a few of my customs. They’re great.

If your fairing is in good shape, you can list it here and sell it, and the cost of the naked conversion will cost you nothing (you may even make a few dollars).

The instrument cluster can be mounted with a simple bracket. You can get a rear cover (regardless of year) to give the installation a factory look.

Besides that you’ll need mirrors, turn indicators and a headlight that you like.

But before you do any of that, let’s figure out why you are killing batteries. Have you taken any voltage measurements?
 

Raevyn00

New Member
I have used those brackets on a few of my customs. They’re great.

If your fairing is in good shape, you can list it here and sell it, and the cost of the naked conversion will cost you nothing (you may even make a few dollars).

The instrument cluster can be mounted with a simple bracket. You can get a rear cover (regardless of year) to give the installation a factory look.

Besides that you’ll need mirrors, turn indicators and a headlight that you like.

But before you do any of that, let’s figure out why you are killing batteries. Have you taken any voltage measurements?
Yeah I saw You mentioned that a couple of times, I’m wondering how difficult the wiring is for the headlight?
 

Gary in NJ

Junior Member
Site Supporter
It’s easy. All you need is the low beam (B/g), high beam (B/y) and ground. They are all there, you just need to cut them from the OEM connector and connect them to the H4 connector that comes with the head light bucket. Solderless connectors with shrink tube is the easiest and best (imo) way to make the connections.
 

Audissy

New Member
mine is a 2006 if having trouble figuring out how to wire into a LED I have the same type of light mentioned above when I plug in only high beam works
 

Audissy

New Member
thanks for the quick response and sorry if I ask a lot of questions new to this I appreciate your time I attached a image of the plug I took from original light since there are 2 of these plugs what would be my next step to make work thanks again trying to complete build only thing I have left to complete
 

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Motogiro

Vrrroooooom!
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thanks for the quick response and sorry if I ask a lot of questions new to this I appreciate your time I attached a image of the plug I took from original light since there are 2 of these plugs what would be my next step to make work thanks again trying to complete build only thing I have left to complete
Here is a link to a diagram of the headlamp wire configuration.

You would remove the black with green tracer wire from the other plug. You can remove it using a small screwdriver inserted into the small rectangular opening at the front of the plug to release the metal connector through the back of the plug assembly. Don't break the little retainer tab. You may have to bend the little tab back out just a little so the when you insert it into the other plug, the tab locks the connector into it's new home. Now you will have high and low beam at the plug for your H4 dual filament plug but there is now another important issue. The H4 lamp will over heat and fail because the dual headlamp FZ6 did not provide the switching off of the low beam when the high beam was active because high/low beam operation occurred in two separate lamps. There is resolve for this.
 

Gary in NJ

Junior Member
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The LEDs I'm using seem to tolerate both elements being energized at the same time, but I also rarely use the high beams.
 

Motogiro

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The LEDs I'm using seem to tolerate both elements being energized at the same time, but I also rarely use the high beams.
Yes, the LED lamps are recently only requiring the high beam operation for switching logic and proper operation but the incandescent lamps have no switching supply.

I have worked with early LED units that do not use the high beam logic and pooped out early in the game because the were factory wired incorrectly. Diode on the circuit mounted backwards....
 
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