Help/Advice: Installing Multiple Electronic Accessories on FZ6-S2

[WastedWrath]

I have a 2008 FZ6 S2 and would like to install 4 Electronic accessories onto it.
I am a complete beginner to this so would prefer the easiest way with least risk that I break everything.
I have been researching for hours and it seems that the best way for this would bike would be: Battery>In-line fuse>Automotive relay>Accessories.

I have drawn a rudimentary diagram which is probably wrong.

Question: can I just connect multiple lines to one output of the relay? What amp do you recommend the in-line fuse be?


I have also heard about positaps however I have no idea if this would be a better way to install multiple devices.
I could possibly just positap from many switched power lines to each one of my devices?


Any and all advice welcome, thanks.

 

[Motogiro]

You're on the right track. The main fuse is a 30 ampere so I would recommend staying below that. A 20 amp should be good as your inline fuse. Add up the current requirements of the devices you plan to have to insure you're below your relay and fuse ratings.
The other consideration is running higher current devices at the same time. What are the heated glove and heated grips going to draw? The FZ6 does not have a lot of extra charging capacity so depending on the type of riding you might manage when you run higher current draw on the system. An example might be "stop n go" city with less wind and less engine rpm for charging would mean turning higher current demand off when not required. At higher speeds, more wind, more rpm, higher current.

There are also more pricey,really trick and integrated power management devices out there. I'm sure others will chime in.

 

[trepetti]

chiming in

I used the FuzeBlocks FZ1 to give me 6 individually-fused power taps. Each tap can be configured to provide either switched or constant power. Important lesson I learned when I did mine, if you wire up ANYTHING that is not in the fairing (power outlet on the chassis, heated grips, etc) take a little time and add a waterproof connector where the wires come from the chassis into the cowling. It will keep things neat and make it easy to take the fairing off in the future; no need to individually disconnect things. I get mine here: Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors, and Wiring Accessories

Good luck and remember to keep things neat and label things if you can.

https://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6...roject-finished.html?highlight=winter+project

 

[WastedWrath]

You're on the right track. The main fuse is a 30 ampere so I would recommend staying below that. A 20 amp should be good as your inline fuse. Add up the current requirements of the devices you plan to have to insure you're below your relay and fuse ratings.
The other consideration is running higher current devices at the same time. What are the heated glove and heated grips going to draw? The FZ6 does not have a lot of extra charging capacity so depending on the type of riding you might manage when you run higher current draw on the system. An example might be "stop n go" city with less wind and less engine rpm for charging would mean turning higher current demand off when not required. At higher speeds, more wind, more rpm, higher current.

There are also more pricey,really trick and integrated power management devices out there. I'm sure others will chime in.

Thanks for the advice, I will unfortunately be in "stop n go" as its a commuter for the most part (8 miles, 35-50 minutes). I will have to research the draw expected and do some googling around that, using the grips and gloves at the same time is only expected for the very cold weeks in winter and not for prolonged use. I'm mostly putting the grips on so that they're "there".

Heated Gloves: most likely Gerbing 12V
Heated Grips: some cheapo heated pads I'll put under current grips with a switch.
USB Tracker: just a cheap GPS tracker that will be charged via USB
USB Port: the same product that supplies the tracker probably.

Also an option is for a front back camera system to be wired up (again, cheapo aliexpress) but I'm probably pushing it with everything else. I just love gadgets and doodaas.
I haven't looked this up but is there an option for all of this to be put on and connected to some kind of external battery possibly? I know there isn't much space under the seat (mines full of puncture repair kits atm).

Thanks again

 

[WastedWrath]

chiming in

I used the FuzeBlocks FZ1 to give me 6 individually-fused power taps. Each tap can be configured to provide either switched or constant power. Important lesson I learned when I did mine, if you wire up ANYTHING that is not in the fairing (power outlet on the chassis, heated grips, etc) take a little time and add a waterproof connector where the wires come from the chassis into the cowling. It will keep things neat and make it easy to take the fairing off in the future; no need to individually disconnect things. I get mine here: Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors, and Wiring Accessories

Good luck and remember to keep things neat and label things if you can.

https://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6...roject-finished.html?highlight=winter+project

Interesting, I had seen your post and wasn't sure it could be used for my bike. And that's a bit more than I expected to pay for this! However, It might be better for me to go this route rather than potentially bodging something.

From what I understand of the Fuzeblocks, you splice/positap into a switched wire and ground. Then the "magic box" allows you to just connect whatever you want and it's all fused?

Thanks

 

[WastedWrath]

chiming in

I used the FuzeBlocks FZ1 to give me 6 individually-fused power taps. Each tap can be configured to provide either switched or constant power. Important lesson I learned when I did mine, if you wire up ANYTHING that is not in the fairing (power outlet on the chassis, heated grips, etc) take a little time and add a waterproof connector where the wires come from the chassis into the cowling. It will keep things neat and make it easy to take the fairing off in the future; no need to individually disconnect things. I get mine here: Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors, and Wiring Accessories

Good luck and remember to keep things neat and label things if you can.

https://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6...roject-finished.html?highlight=winter+project

I'm sure I replied but it seems to have gone.

thanks for the advice, I didnt expect to spend so much money (£80~ in the UK)! Thinking about it more, this solution seems to be better suited to my experience.
Looking around I can't find the exact answer, for this box do I just splice/tap into a switched power source and into ground and wire the box in. Then "magic" happens inside, everything is fused and split and I get a choice of 6 things to attach to the box?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I used a "power block" (first pic), from the battery to the inside of the fairing. All lines are labeled and accessible W/O removing anything.

I used one relay for my horn (came with horn as it has a high draw) and tapped the relay trigger into the stock two horn wires.

For the GPS, Stebal air horn relay, stuff I want to go on and off with the ignition, I used a Posi Tap and tapped into the front right directional RUNNING LIGHT wire. (Posit Tap's are a great product. With light wiring, you can put several lines into the tap, which would run off the "main" wire.

For the Powerlet BMW style outlet (mounted on the left side of the bike), that's direct run to the battery (fused of course) for heated clothing, compressors, battery charger, etc...


The large circle of wires, zipped tied to the fairing stay, is the 6' octopus wiring harness for the Zumo GPS (PIA to tuck in there)

 

[Motogiro]

I did a quick google and see amperage draw of about 2.5 amps for gloves and 2,5 to 3 amps for grips. You could safely allow another 3 amps for your USB stuff. So you'll be good and only need a 15 amp inline fuse. Go forth and ride warm and happy!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I've run a Widder heated vest and Widder heated gauntlet gloves W/O issue on the FZ.

Now if I'm stuck at a light (idling) I turn the controller off. Once above idle, it's been fine.

Slightly off topic, but I'd invest in heated gloves (and vest), before I'd put heated grips on.
You simply get much more protection.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Just a quite point here, the fuse is there to protect the wire, not the device. Choose a fuse that is appropriate for the wire gauge used.

Chose your wire gauge based on the maximum potential load and the distance of the wire run. For 10-15 amps at 14VDC you should use 14ga wire. 14ga wire up to a 10’ length should be fused at 15a.

 

[FinalImpact]

On the fizzer I would highly recommend you fit it with a volt meter. Several 12v to 5v USB charges come with this.


As human and able to average out streaming live data from your new usb/volt meter, If 2/3 of your riding (say thats a 20min ride) has the battery voltage under 12.9 volts you need to make some wise choices about the problem you have created as you will have a problem.

i.e. a dead battery at some point in time.

Think in terms of battery health and if 90% of your ride has voltage.
>13.3volts = battery ok tmrw
>13.0 volts = battery may need trickle charge
<12.8 volts = charge battery nightly or walk to work

That said if there is a need to have a device that say for example turns off your higher load devices when battery voltage is below 12.9v, I'd bet we could make or find a solution. This may include spare lighting for those with dual headlights.

The kicker on the head lights is our device has to be smart enough to know if our primary lighting is not drawing current than do not shut down *spare lighting*....

Something to think about.

Also, look at the sticky in the electrical section; where to buy your electric components!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just a quite point here, the fuse is there to protect the wire, not the device. Choose a fuse that is appropriate for the wire gauge used.

Chose your wire gauge based on the maximum potential load and the distance of the wire run. For 10-15 amps at 14VDC you should use 14ga wire. 14ga wire up to a 10’ length should be fused at 15a.

Don't think I totally agree with this, ^^^.

Not on a motorcycle but say in a car, boat, etc, you install and re-wire a radio, reg or VHF. The radio usually comes with a fused positive wire and very often the "radio" is fused for 2 amps (super light draw). Now the wiring is WAY heavier than that two amp fuse... Putting in say a 15 amp fuse for a radio designed for a 2 amp fuse, your wire might be protected by the "unit" is NOT. It'll cook way before the fuse blows.

Take our FZ6 radiator fan STOCK fuse. When a rock jambs up the fan blade and the fan cannot turn, the fuse does NOT burn out saving the fan. The fan continues to try and run till it fries the fan, THEN pops the fuse (wires are always fine). There have many discussions about replacing the recommended fan fuse with a lighter fuse (to protect the fan motor)..

 

[WastedWrath]

I

Interesting, positaps seem to be a pretty good and simple idea for this then.

I did a quick google and see amperage draw of about 2.5 amps for gloves and 2,5 to 3 amps for grips. You could safely allow another 3 amps for your USB stuff. So you'll be good and only need a 15 amp inline fuse. Go forth and ride warm and happy!

Great thanks for all the help! I'll update the thread on the outcome good or bad

Just a quite point here, the fuse is there to protect the wire, not the device. Choose a fuse that is appropriate for the wire gauge used.

Chose your wire gauge based on the maximum potential load and the distance of the wire run. For 10-15 amps at 14VDC you should use 14ga wire. 14ga wire up to a 10’ length should be fused at 15a.

Interesting, I was minutes away from buying a 20AWG cable, it makes sense so I will buy lower ga wire. Thanks.

 

[FinalImpact]

Rydonair Universal Rocker Style 4.2A Dual USB Charger Socket with Blue LED Digital Voltmeter for rocker Switch Panel on Marine, Boat, Car, Golf Cart, UTV, ATV, etc

https://www.amazon.com/Rydonair-Universal-Charger-Digital-Voltmeter/dp/B076MSVQ9S/
$16

View attachment 68744

This....

And ya, most devices have internal fuses that open when something fails.

Not all devices self save. But the last thing you want is a fire between your legs!

Places fuses as close to the power source as possible so that bends, pinches, heat are downstream of the fuse.

 

[WastedWrath]

This....

And ya, most devices have internal fuses that open when something fails.

Not all devices self save. But the last thing you want is a fire between your legs!

Places fuses as close to the power source as possible so that bends, pinches, heat are downstream of the fuse.

Thanks,
I went for: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Voltm...var=452339923784&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 as I'm in the UK.

My thinking as a trial run for just the USB device (+voltmeter so I can check if my 10 year old battery is up to scratch) I will:

1. connect Positap to front light (+)
2. Connect 14AWG wire to positap
3. Connect other end to in-line fuse
4. Connect in-line fuse to usb port
5. connect GROUND from USB port to battery

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I would tie into the directional RUNNING LIGHT wire. Different circuit, should something happen, I'd rather loose running / directional than a headlight.

And yes, Posi-Taps work great.

I accessorize lots of bikes and have probably a 50 pack of the most often used size in the tool box...

 

[Motogiro]

Yes you can use the running light signal to turn on your relay. Also there is a red with white tracer wire going to the starter relay that sits right on top of the battery that comes on with the key on.

If you use your own relay I've shown a standard automotive type relay with the pinout numbers. You can always add an inline fuse where you pick off your relay control wire to lessen the chance that circuit would effect the supply if there were a problem.

 

[FinalImpact]

TAPA CIRCUIT, INSTANT FUSED POWER SOURCE:
Don't cut up your OEM harness for small accessories. Add this in place of an OEM fuse and power up your Gizmo's!!
Bussman BP/HHH-RP or from NAPA Auto as: 785135, TAPA-CIRCUIT ; Post 17 below for details.

FUSED SOLUTION to Switched Source

<< Paste from electrical sticky>>

I like this option for switched power... No damage to wires.


And look at that loco sh$t fotobuckucket is alive again... well maybe...

 

[Gary in NJ]

By way of background, the company for which I work designs and manufactures electrical systems for large aircraft and spacecraft. In these vehicles a melted wire or an arcing event can be deadly. Our electronic circuit breakers do not allow the wire to heat and we detect arcing. We use current sensors to detect an abnormal condition and can shutdown the circuit within microseconds. A runaway current event (fuse/breaker not tripping) essentially turns the wire into the fuse. As the current increases heat is generated, and that heat will destroy the wire.

The two major causes for home fires; melted wiring (caused by a failed or fused breaker) and electrical arcing.

Not on a motorcycle but say in a car, boat, etc, you install and re-wire a radio, reg or VHF. The radio usually comes with a fused positive wire and very often the "radio" is fused for 2 amps (super light draw). Now the wiring is WAY heavier than that two amp fuse... Putting in say a 15 amp fuse for a radio designed for a 2 amp fuse, your wire might be protected by the "unit" is NOT. It'll cook way before the fuse blows.

Yes, the radio is fused, but it is also on a fused and switched circuit. The fuse in the cars distribution center was chosen to protect the wire, not the radio.

Take our FZ6 radiator fan STOCK fuse. When a rock jambs up the fan blade and the fan cannot turn, the fuse does NOT burn out saving the fan. The fan continues to try and run till it fries the fan, THEN pops the fuse (wires are always fine). There have many discussions about replacing the recommended fan fuse with a lighter fuse (to protect the fan motor)..

The wire may "appear" to be fine, but the reason that the fuse opened was because the the stalled motor caused the current to to increase beyond the capacity of the fuse. When current increases and voltage remains the same, the result is heat.

 

[Motogiro]

By way of background, the company for which I work designs and manufactures electrical systems for large aircraft and spacecraft. In these vehicles a melted wire or an arcing event can be deadly. Our electronic circuit breakers do not allow the wire to heat and we detect arcing. We use current sensors to detect an abnormal condition and can shutdown the circuit within microseconds. A runaway current event (fuse/breaker not tripping) essentially turns the wire into the fuse.

Hmmm ....... I'm think we could see that technology in automotive soon. And at reasonable cost. That could include the event that was recorded. Good stuff!