Help With Getting Clutch Cover back on after Clutch disk replacement. Cable Has no tension whatsoever (Issue is not the cable itself)

Tom24GR

New Member
Hello everyone,

First Time posting here as this is the first time having such trouble working on my cars/bikes. I'm really desperate and helping me fix this would be greatly appreciated.

I just picked up a 2007 FZ6 and needed to do a clutch job on it. Everything went fine until it came time to put the cover back on. I had buttoned everything up, hooked up the clutch cable, and realized that the clutch cable had absolutely no slack and that the pressure plate was not being pulled. After researching I realized that my problem is centered around the clutch pull rod that inserts into the clutch cover. I will quickly list what I did but I am pretty much certain that my problem lies in the clutch pull rod.

1) Drained oil removed cover.

2) Removed and replaced the 16 clutch and friction plates. The first plate, which is a metal plate, is slightly thicker than the other ones. Then I alternated and made sure that the total number of plates was 16.

3) Put the pressure plate back on making sure to align the dot on the pressure plate and inner basket (so that the pressure plate sits flush). Torqued the new springs to 5.8 lb/ft

4) put the dowel pins and gasket on and put the cover back on, including the bracket for the clutch cable.

At this point pulling the lever results in a dead lever that does not spring back into place. It just rests against the handlebars. The problem is not in the cable. I have the cable on the tightest settings AND I bought a brand new (second) cable and tried it and the same result.

Could someone please help me understand two specific things (and any other useful information you may have).

1) Does the dot on the actuator arm and the triangle on the clutch case have to line up before or after the clutch pull rod is inserted.

2) Once the cover is on and those two are aligned, should I be able to push the arm by hand or not? I had them aligned but I was able to push them by hand (something unable to do on my other bikes). Even though I can push the arm, I can see (through the oil fill hole) that the pressure plate is not being pulled [not even slightly, like literally 0 movement]).

If you guys help me fix this you will have my undying gratitude. I appreciate any and all advice.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
When you install the engine "lever" there is a small DOT on the moveable arm itself. (Barely visible on my below pic-the clutch is at rest)

When assembled correctly, cable installed, adjusted, that DOT has to line up with the arrow
on the clutch cover case AT REST.


If you took the lever off the splined shaft, you should be able to re-clock it so that the marks line up.. Once at that point, you should have tension on the clutch cable again.

I'm assuming the clutch itself is re-assembled correctly...

Re the lever popping back on it's own, there should be a spring there, as shown in my pic's below.


Also, I just tried pushing in that lower lever with both thumbs-AIN'T HAPPENING/not enough leverage...


Second pic, I circled in blue where the dot is...



Clutch-lever-marks.jpg
 
Last edited:

Tom24GR

New Member
Thank you for giving me an exact answer to my question!! So if those two must line up at rest, doesn't that mean that when I am putting it on that I must basically push that lever as much as it can go forward (so that when it springs back those two will line up)?
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
Actually, I believe you have to clock it the other way. (Not positive).
Thank you for giving me an exact answer to my question!! So if those two must line up at rest, doesn't that mean that when I am putting it on that I must basically push that lever as much as it can go forward (so that when it springs back those two will line up)?
The marks line up when ALL DONE, cable attached and adjusted.

There's some slack in the mechanism under the cover, (as you've seen).

Your probably going to have to initially install the main rod(downward into the case), initially offset, getting rid of all the play in the mechanism.

Once you turn it clockwise and the marks line up, your good..

*Full clutch movement, at that lower lever is VERY LITTLE, I'd estimate 1/16", just enough to separate the plates..



Capture.JPG
 

Tom24GR

New Member
THANK YOU I FINALLY GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I ended up taking the little arm off and reinstalling it but it worked. I appreciate it!! One last minute question- Clutch engagement is super far out and I had to really tighten the cable almost fully (on both the main and the handlebar adjusters) in order for the clutch to be able to fully disengage. I would assume the solution to this would be to remove the arm and reposition, correct?
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
THANK YOU I FINALLY GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I ended up taking the little arm off and reinstalling it but it worked. I appreciate it!! One last minute question- Clutch engagement is super far out and I had to really tighten the cable almost fully (on both the main and the handlebar adjusters) in order for the clutch to be able to fully disengage. I would assume the solution to this would be to remove the arm and reposition, correct?
Actually, it sounds like somethings amiss in the clutch assembly. As you know engagement/disengagement is VERY short (and often complained of).

I'm guessing 1/3 of total movement to engage/disengage. Sounds like your NOT getting that now.

You shouldn't have to pull/release the handlebar lever FULLY for designed operation.

You have mail that should help you re-check the clutch plate assembly process. There's also a bearing in the clutch outer hub. Make sure that's NOT damaged/failed. It supports the cover when the clutch is disengaged.

Once the shaft that goes down in it's correct spot, adjust(move) the top lever so the outer marks line up as pictured (with clutch released). You'll probably will have to re-adjust the cable..
 
Last edited:

Tom24GR

New Member
Yeah I'm gunna check it out today. I first tested it on the stand and the clutch fully engages and disengages (but I have that problem with it fully disengaging only once its fully pulled in and only engaging fully at the very end). I took it out for a spin and it drove good- no slipping, and was able to fully disengage at the stoplights (it wasn't creeping forward nor was it hard to roll it backwards while in first with the clutch pulled in). But I'm going to go ahead and fix up the arm and pull rod again. I believe that the clutch actuator arm is too "tight" (i.e. I preloaded it too much during my install of the cover) and therefore it engages all the way at the end of the throw (I know this is not a clear description but I can envision it in my head). I'll figure it out.

I wanna say thanks again you really saved me and I was able to complete the job because of your help!!
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
Yeah I'm gunna check it out today. I first tested it on the stand and the clutch fully engages and disengages (but I have that problem with it fully disengaging only once its fully pulled in and only engaging fully at the very end). I took it out for a spin and it drove good- no slipping, and was able to fully disengage at the stoplights (it wasn't creeping forward nor was it hard to roll it backwards while in first with the clutch pulled in). But I'm going to go ahead and fix up the arm and pull rod again. I believe that the clutch actuator arm is too "tight" (i.e. I preloaded it too much during my install of the cover) and therefore it engages all the way at the end of the throw (I know this is not a clear description but I can envision it in my head). I'll figure it out.

I wanna say thanks again you really saved me and I was able to complete the job because of your help!!

Well, I'd say your closer, but it still isn't right.

The clutch "zone" is super close (not much handle bar lever movement STOCK to function), while yours , right now is super wide...

I'd double check, might have to get into the clutch again and check plates, etc with what your shop manual shows..


.
 

Gary in NJ

Junior Member
Site Supporter
The stack-up may be a bit too thick (wide). According to the FSM, the friction plates should have a max thickness of 3.1mm (2.9mm min) and the clutch plates have an allowance of 0.1mm of warpage. The springs have a free length of 55mm. New clutch plates should be soaked in oil overnight before installing them in the basket. The FSM doesn't provide a thickness for the clutch plates, so you might want to check them against the old ones to see if they are in the right "zone".
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
And if that doesn't work, ^^^, replace with all OEM parts and be done with it..

Sometimes saving a couple bucks for knock offs don't work out..
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
Agreed, EBC's been around a long time, but in MOST cases, OEM parts (especially engine parts) are the best way to go-
(More expensive but no guessing if they'll be an issue-assuming assembly is correct)..

.
 

Tom24GR

New Member
Oh okok I get what you mean. I will remeasure the oem metal plates and the new ones in an hour or so and I'll write back.
 

Tom24GR

New Member
Well. After so long I have finally gotten it working!!!! I went in and measured the disks and they were more or less the same as the old ones. The friction plates were 2.9mm and the old metal disks were 1.8-1.9mm. New metal disks were 1.9mm and I'm chalking that up that difference to the fact that the old metal plates are 13 years old.

My problem was in fact the cover. When I had put it on in the past I had the rod positioned either fully loaded (to the left) or not at all loaded (to the right). This time I just had the rod face me and when I put the cover on there was no struggle. I now have the cable fully loosened on the middle adjuster and only slightly adjusted on the main adjuster (with the proper free play) [brand new cable] and I am able to fully engage and disengage just like before. I don't have to overtighten the cable just for it to be able to disengage. Now its just like normal.

Thanks for all your help throughout this. I'm glad I didn't have to throw away any of the new clutch supplies that would have been a bummer.
 
Top