How the heck do you unclip the ignition switch connector inside the frame?

[CanadaFZ6]

There are no obvious tabs to unclip the connector like you would see on most standard wiring harness connectors.

Does anyone know where to press or whatever to get this apart?

Trying to remove the top triple clamp and I guess this has to go along with it.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Ha. I know I’ve done it. I vaguely remember it being a pain in the ass…but not as big a pain in the ass as discovering that my new ignition had a harness that was too short so I had to do some surgery to lengthen the wires.

I believe you need to snake the harness to a location where you will have better access. I think the ignition switch has to be removed to get access to the connector.

 

[CanadaFZ6]

Ha. I know I’ve done it. I vaguely remember it being a pain in the ass…but not as big a pain in the ass as discovering that my new ignition had a harness that was too short so I had to do some surgery to lengthen the wires.

I believe you need to snake the harness to a location where you will have better access. I think the ignition switch has to be removed to get access to the connector.

How do you even remove the ignition from the triple? I couldn’t see any obvious bolts. I just need to get the triple off to tap a new hole in it. I would prefer to leave the connector alone if possible. My ignition is fine.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Try dropping the fork tubes below the upper triple clamp. That might give you enough room to maneuver the clamp.

 

[CanadaFZ6]

Try dropping the fork tubes below the upper triple clamp. That might give you enough room to maneuver the clamp.

sorry to be clear I have the triple completely off, it’s hanging by the ignition wire. I need to somehow free it. Whether it’s from disconnecting the clip or removing the key switch from the top triple somehow.

 

[Gary in NJ]

You will have to drill out the special fastener used to secure the ignition to the triple clamp. Just drill off the head, the threaded portion can be removed with vice grips after the switch is removed.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you FLIP the triple upside down, you should be able to slip it over the fork legs which would give you a steady platform to work on..

No switch removal at all...

 

[CanadaFZ6]

Okay I finally have some pictures to make this clearer. The removal of the harness clip was just step one, I also need to dremel slots into these "break away" bolts so I can get the ignition cylinder off completely.

I'm trying to tap the hole at the top in the first picture, so I can mount the other side of the naked headlight bracket. (As circled in third picture) The bottom hole in the picture is used from stock on the NA FZ6, but not the other side hole, although there is an embossed circle where it would be for the two sides of the mounting holes of the naked light bracket. (you can see where I already drilled it out, yes its going to be a bigger bolt than the other one)

Unfortunately the ignition is in the way to do a proper job on this, my taps aren't long enough to get at it without hitting the side of it when trying to turn the tap holder.

I will just leave the harness alone and do the dremel job with the triple attached. It just would have been easier to get the harness off and do the dremel job on those break away bolts with it free from the bike.

 

[CanadaFZ6]

If you FLIP the triple upside down, you should be able to slip it over the fork legs which would give you a steady platform to work on..

No switch removal at all...

I have done that, unfortunately the cylinder is in the way of where I need access to.

 

[cowbasa]

You can drill the heads off the bolts. The switch will then slide off.
Remove what's left of the bolts with a vise grip(they'll be two long studs left).
For re-installation, you can either use SS allen head bolts with locktite or buy the original Yamaha bolts that will shear off when it reaches a certain amount of torque.

 

[CanadaFZ6]

You can drill the heads off the bolts. The switch will then slide off.
Remove what's left of the bolts with a vise grip(they'll be two long studs left).
For re-installation, you can either use SS allen head bolts with locktite or buy the original Yamaha bolts that will shear off when it reaches a certain amount of torque.

Yeah I figured I could drill them out, but I wanted to try the method of just grinding a slot into it and using a screw driver first. I seem to have good luck with that.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

They usually have Loctite on them making it a bit difficult