How To Change Your Oil

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bd43

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There are many things that require periodic maintenance on your FZ6. One of the most frequent and easiest things to do is the oil change. With the proper tools, this 30 minute job will save in ride down time and money, had you sent it into the shop.

To begin, you need a few things. 3 liters of 10W30 Yamalube oil, oil pan & funnel, oil filter (Yamaha 5GH-13440-20), oil filter wrench #5, 17mm socket, tin foil, torque wrench with extension, brake cleaner, and shop towels.

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Warm up the oil by taking the bike around the block a couple of times. Place bike on its side stand, place oil pan beneath the bike, and shape tin foil to cover exhaust pipes and create a path for oil to drain toward pan.

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Loosen and slowly remove drain plug. When the flow of oil does not overshoot the oil pan, remove plug completely.

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Next, while oil is still draining, remove oil filter with oil filter wrench.

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bd43

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When all oil has drained from drain plug and oil filter areas, wipe surface clean of debris.

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Now prep the oil filter. Ensure O-ring is seated properly on filter. With some Yamalube, apply a thin coat of oil around O-ring with your finger.

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Install the oil filter, torque the filter to 12 ft•lbs. Install the drain plug, torque the plug to 31 ft•lbs. Clean the area with brake cleaner to remove any spilled oil.

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Place bike on center stand, clean area around oil filler cap and dip stick area with brake cleaner (we don’t want crap falling into the openings) then remove oil filler cap and add 2 liters of Yamalube. On the 3rd liter, add in small quantities so as to not overfill, checking oil level.

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bd43

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Confirm that enough oil has been added by observing the dip stick. Re-install dip stick and oil filler cap. Clean area with brake cleaner to remove any oil residue. Run engine for a few minutes to cycle the new oil. Drain used oil from oil pan into now empty oil jug containers with funnel. You’re done. 30 minutes tops.

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Edit: I switched to Yamalube 10W40 which only came in a 4 liter jug. To dispense it I bought a $3 2-liter juice container and a $2 1-liter measuring cup (which you can do without) and poured the oil in the container which has liter markings along the side in 1/4 increments. The container made pouring the oil into the bike easy without using a funnel too.

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Edit: I want to re-iterate something here as I keep reading people are spilling oil onto everything other than the drain pan. Help save our environment! I mentioned earlier when removing the drain plug, do it slowly and hold it over the opening until enough pressure of the flowing oil into the pan has been alleviated, and then totally pull away. This will reduce the chance of missing the pan and spoiling your nice driveway.

P.S. It’s just oil, it won’t kill you if you want to deflect the oil with your hand from overshooting the drain pan as a last ditch effort to prevent the next Exxon Valdez.
 
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VEGASRIDER

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Great Post! I do have a question regarding oil level. Am I the only bike that never needs any oil? I mean, I'm getting close to my 3rd oil change, every 3,000 miles or so, and the past two, my oil level never went down. I did recall my bike burned up a lot of oil during the break in period, but nothing after that.
 
R

Raid The Revenge

Make sure to discard your old oil properly. Take it to a FIREMAN's station or OIL RECYCLING bin.

If you dump it into the sewers, your children will drink it later...
 
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bd43

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You have a very clean bike! How many miles?

LOL. I was prepping the bike for winter so I had just washed and cleaned it earlier. She's spanky clean.... :D

Make sure to discard your old oil properly. Take it to a FIREMAN's station or OIL RECYCLING bin.

If you dump it into the sewers, your children will drink it later...

We have an ECO station here in Edmonton, so all used oil, filters, rags go there. Good point, be responsible when discarding your haz products. :thumbup:

P.S. Mine has not used a drop of oil since I've had it new either.
 

DefyInertia

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I'm going to use that tin foil tip! Nice...

Regarding checking the level, don't you have to get the oil up to operating temp. before checking it while the bike is completely level? Hot oil takes up more space than cold oil, no?

In the absence of a oil filter wrench, large pliers can be used to grab and remove the old filter. I always tighten it by hand but this may not be an option for everyone.
________
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B

Bo67

Great info. I'm too cheap to buy the Yamaha wrench so I bought a similar sized wrench at W-Mart which was a touch big and lined the inside with masking tape. Never though of the tin foil trick; I'll give a try the next time I change the oil.
 

bd43

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Great info. I'm too cheap to buy the Yamaha wrench so I bought a similar sized wrench at W-Mart which was a touch big and lined the inside with masking tape. Never though of the tin foil trick; I'll give a try the next time I change the oil.

My oil filter wrench isn't a Yamaha one either. I think I paid around $4 (CDN) at Canadian Tire.

Regarding checking the level, don't you have to get the oil up to operating temp. before checking it while the bike is completely level? Hot oil takes up more space than cold oil, no?

I'm not sure how much the volume of oil expands when heated but when I'm putting new cool oil in I tend to stop when it just enters into the hatched area. That hatched area is fairly large which would account for volumetic expansion. No? Good point though. :thumbup:
 

Botch

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For 33 years (gulp!) I've stared at black-n-white line drawings in service manuals to figure out how to fix my cars. Color photos on teh Intranetz are such an improvement!
Nice post, Biker Dude! :thumbup:

(and, as far as I know, oil doesn't appreciably expand volumetrically with heat. Heating the engine allows it to flow easier and fill all the nooks and crannies that it normally would during operation).
 

knox

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What is the silver thing in the front of the engine that looks like where the filter would usually go? I had no idea the filter was on the side. Good to know if I buy the Yammy.

Thanks for the pics!
 
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