How to Paint - A Basic Guide

Boneman

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I seemed to get asked "how did you paint that" a lot. So here is a BASIC painting guide to painting motorcycle parts.

This guide can be applied to painting plastic and metal parts using spray paint (rattle cans).

1. It's all in the prep work!

Cleaning - Clean what you are painting first with mineral spirits (paint thinner), isopropyl rubbing alcohol or good old soap and warm water to remove any dirt and more importantly any grease and finger prints from the part.

Sanding - Not always, but if possible it's a good idea to lightly sand the object with some fine grit wet/dry sand paper (200-600 grit is fine). Paint likes a "rough" surface for better adhesion. Painting on smooth or glossy surfaces can be difficult and not only can cause excessive paint runs (drips), but the paint may also peel off over time.

Use wet/dry sandpaper along with some water. Dip the sandpaper in water then basically lightly scuff up your part. Use lots of water as the water flushes away the fine sanding residue. You can usually tell wet/dry sandpaper by its grey colour. I often do this in the kitchen sink, or if the part is say still on your bike, I have a little bucket of water with me and keep dipping the sandpaper in it while I sand.

wet_dry_paper.jpg


Clean Again - After sanding, re-wash/clean your part again. Usually a quick wipe with some alcohol will do.

Tack-Cloth - It's a very good idea to use a painters tack cloth to remove any dust/lint from your part just before you are ready to spray paint!. Once your part is dry from re-cleaning, rub your part with a tack cloth. Tack cloth is basically a sticky cheese cloth that grabs up any loose dirt

CETTR.jpg


2. Prime Time!

Primer Paint - It's always a good idea to prime your part with a few light coats of primer. Primer, along with sanding, helps give your paint something to adhere to. Most automotive primers will do and usually come in either a grey or rust red colour.

204493_300.jpg


Light Sand - If you want to be super picky about the finish quality, you can give your part another light sanding (600 grit) with the wet/dry sand paper again. I usually don't bother with this.

3. Time to paint some colour!

Light Coats - The secret to a good paint job, is applying several LIGHT coats of spray paint! Don't try to cover the whole part in one go, regardless of the size of the part. The key is to apply light coats, usually 3-4, and allowing the paint to dry between each coat. After your first coat (and sometimes your second coat), you should still be able to see the parts "original" colour showing from underneath.

Spray Technique - Whether you are painting with a spray can, air brush of HLPV paint gun, the technique for laying down the colour is about the same. You want to start spraying paint BEFORE your part, continue to spray over your part AND continue to spray past your part. This ensures an even finish. DO NOT start with your spray can directly overtop of your part and then depress the sprayer!! This can result in:
a. a uneven spatter/flow of paint
b. instant runs in the paint because of too much paint being applied at one place.

If in doubt, practice the motion a few times over some paper. You will see that when you depress the sprayer, you tend to get an instant "splat" of paint just before it starts to spray even. This is what you want to avoid getting on your part! The same thing can also happen when releasing the sprayer, which is why you spray the paint past your part before releasing.

Sand Between Each Coat - Again, if you want to achieve the best finish possible, I recommend that you use a finer grit wet/dry sand paper (600-800+ grit) and give your part a light sanding after each coat has dried.

Clean and tack cloth again after each sanding. DO NOT use mineral spirits or paint thinner on your paint to clean it for obvious reasons!

After 3 coats of colour, check your part over. Make sure you have sprayed the paint from different angles to get all surfaces and angles of the part evenly covered. If your part looks good you are done. If in doubt, give it another light coat or two.

Don't stop now! It might look like you are finished but you’re not quite done yet!

4. Clear Coating

Clear Protection - Clear Coating is probably one of the most over looked things when painting parts, especially small parts. Spray paint by itself even when dry, is not a hard finish. Just a painted surface is considered 'soft' and can be easily scratched or chipped. If you want the finish to last on your part, especially if it is a 'high use' part (like rear sets), then you HAVE to apply a hard protective finish - clear coat.

Most automotive paint supply stores now sell automotive clear coat in a spray can and makes clear coating a snap! It's basically just like applying another coat of paint to your part!

clearcoat.JPG


DO NOT use lacquer clear coats from the hardware store!!! Most of these 'clear coats' are meant for indoor use on woods and crafts and will not stand up to the outdoor elements or rain! It must be AUTOMOTIVE CLEAR COAT!

The same principles apply when applying clear coat and are as follows:

a. Sand your painted part. I know, your saying "are you nuts?!?! I just got my part looking awesome and now you want me to sand it!?!?" Again, the clear coat needs to bond with the painted surface. Do a VERY light sanding with fine grit wet/dry sand paper (600-800+ grit). Clean and tack cloth.

b. Apply the clear coat just like the colour spray paint, using the same painting technique.

c. Apply 2-3 light coats of clear coat. You DO NOT have to sand between each coat of clear coat! Follow the directions on the can for the 'flash times' between each coat (initial curing time).

Let it dry a good 24 hours in order for the clear coat to cure properly and harden up.

Now you are done!! :thumbup:

Yes, proper painting of any part can take up to 2-3 days to do it properly and allowing for proper drying time. If you rush it, the result will be either a poor finish, or one that won't last for very long. Just because it looks good today, doesn’t mean it will look good a year from now.
 
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madmanmaigret

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I missed this post the first time around.......

Mods, this should be stickied!

Excellent write up, Rep sent!

Thanks Boneman! I get asked the same thing.....you nailed it.
 

chunkygoat

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Keep in mind i am not a professional here, but have had the obsession of painting EVERYTHING i own since an early age. I've always customized my crap with my own paint jobs...everything from cellphones, game boys, my couch, lawn furniture, my car, parts of my bike. You name it, I've painted it.

But that's a great start up guide on painting....but i do have a bone to pick with the clear coat section. 2 - 3 coats of clear coat is not sufficient for vehicles(by my standards at least). The more coats of clear coat you use, the "shinier" the outcome will be. Also means that surface scratches won't scratch the paint, but rather the clear coat - so it also provides more protection (as well as a better appearance) to add an extra layer of clear coat or 2.

Also, provided you have the time and supplies, the professionals start off with 100% paint, doing 2 - 3 coats.
Then using a mix of 90% paint/10% clear coat.
Then on to 80% paint/20% clear coat.
continue all the way down to 100% clear coat/ 0% paint - with at least 3 (5 turns out BEAUTIFUL) coats.

This has helped achieve the longest life and the best appearance for any vehicles me or my friends have painted or assisted with. Generally speaking, the more prep work, the more time you put into it - the nice the outcome will be.
 

chunkygoat

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You see if often, but mostly in show cars. It adds a brilliant shine that is lacking in a lesser quality paint job. It is the difference between a 200$ paint job at Maco, and a 700$+ paint job at A+ Body and Collision Repair shop. The first picture appears to be an average paint job without a brilliant shine. It is the difference between a nice paint job, and an jaw dropping paint job.

MoozdaPage.jpg



Then there's these which practically looks like a mirror. This obviously has additional layers of clear coat and likely was painted using the above described technique.
or32.jpg


DSC00002.JPG
 
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cobalto

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Very nice guide!

I plan to (spray) paint my FZ6, but which kind of paint should I use for each part of the bike?

For instance:
1) Exhaust System. (BBQ kind?)
2) Forks/Swingarm.
3) Engine.

Thanks!
 

Peter Biker

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I have tried this myself and made a pigsear more times than I can imagine... What I have done in the past on bikes, cycles and cars is.
a:for damage repairs go to a local dent master (from one of the big chains) offer cash for Sat work and pay around 30% of normal (a friend of a friend used to train these guys and told me that they are told to quote a min price for the public.

For a custom job - Go to the local uni engineering dept - my local uni redid my VW camper as a project for a group of students - looked fantastic and cost £100 for the materials. It was a pro job as the uni had all the best gear (they have the best of everythiing) (spray booth, garage for stripping down etc.)

just a thought

P
 

McLovin

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this is an awesome guide, and the thank you button is not showing up for some reason but, THANK YOU! great sticky..
 

sxty8goats

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Then there's these which practically looks like a mirror. This obviously has additional layers of clear coat and likely was painted using the above described technique.
or32.jpg


DSC00002.JPG

The 'mirror' finish comes from wet sanding the clear coat to assure that it is flat and then buffing it back out to shine. Wax goes a long way to adding the mirror/deep effect.

Your method of cutting the paint color with clear and adding 9 or 10 more coats of paint as you reduce the ratio of paint in the mix is suspect at best. The problem is that will result in a very thick layer of paint on the car. That actually make the paint more prone to chipping in impact situations such as small rocks bouncing up from other cars' tires. Thicker paint can also crack easier if flexed. It may be used for show cars but normally a single color coat is used over the primer and then a few layers of clear. A good prep and finish (wet sanding the final clear, then buffing) is what gives the paint that deep mirror look.
 

McLovin

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This is a great guide and I am going to paint some parts so I made a .pdf version of this guide to install on my phone..thought i would post it here as well in case anyone want to do the same thing..download and enjoy :cheer:
 

mxgolf

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Thanks for the guides to painting. I have rattle canned a few parts but nothing major. Very good information. It takes patience and a steady hand. :thumbup:
 

DownrangeFuture

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Yes, the process is the same. Just make sure you use something like Duplicolor's rattle cans designed for cars, or a "professional" style 3 part lacquer system and air gun. Duplicolor even has videos detailing the entire process from start to finish on their site.

Use their advice. Primer, 2 thin coats of color, then the mid-coat if you want it (metallic, candy coat, etc), 3-5 thin coats of clear, wet sand, buff and wax. The "awesome" car shown, is probably candy coated using this method.
 
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