How to replace clutch cable

Brandad

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Having seen few suggestions on how to replace clutch cables, I decided to post my own version. I'm not a fan of removing any extra parts that I don't absolutely have to, so this might work well for people with limited tools. Keep in mind this an '05 FZ6.

First, screw in the clutch tensioner next to the clutch handle to make the cable & handle as loose as possible. Pull the cable casing directly away (towards instrument panel) from the cable bracket. If you don't have enough slack to do this, you should jump ahead and remove the cable end down by the clutch on the right side of the bike.

View attachment 14943

You will probably need to screw the tensioner back out enough to align the slot on the tensioner so that the cable can be slipped out of the tensioner.

View attachment 14944

Now the barrel tip of the cable comes straight down from the bottom of the handle (if you point the cable toward the front of the bike).

View attachment 14945

To remove the cable end from the clip on the right side of the bike down by the actual clutch, gently pry up the metal tab on the black bracket. It's easy to find this bracket if you push & pull on the cable at the handlebar. This will also help you orient where the cable is running through the bike.

View attachment 14946

My least favorite part of this repair was disconnecting the clip that holds the clutch cable inside the frame. I included a couple pictures because it's difficult to see. Below pic gives you the rough location of the clip. Also, putting the screwdriver under the frame, but with same orientation, was the best access I found to reach clip.

View attachment 14947

Following pic shows top of clip around cable. Clip looks like a double black band around cable.

View attachment 14948
 
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Brandad

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Well, I messed up the attachments, bear with me, I'll get this straightened out.

OK, maybe I need two parts with this many attachments:

Pic below has my screwdriver with a slightly rusty tip touching the clip.

View attachment 14952

I failed to get a photo of the clip detached, but it is more or less a horshoe with some flaps on the base of the U and a spreading type anchor (like a drywall anchor) that goes thru the hole that secures it on to the frame bracket. Put a flathead screwdriver between the flap and the mount, slide the blade under the cable, rotate the blade, and with some slight force, half the clip will come loose.

Now you can remove the old cable, snake it out pulling the top down toward the engine. Rotate the cable as needed to get the 90 degree metal bend thru the tighter sections. The only really tough spot is up by the battery.

To run the new cable thru, start by snaking the 90 degree bend under the tight spot at the battery.

View attachment 14953

Run the lower end of the cable back where it belongs, leaving extra slack up at the handle. This way you have just the cable casing sitting on top of the frame and against the air cleaner housing.

View attachment 14954

At this point, I suggest trial fitting the cable and making sure the upper tensioner will get the adjustment you need. If not, you can still reach the lower tensioner to adjust as necessary. Now just push the cable in between the frame and air cleaner - it's a tight fit, but it will go. It's up to you to decide if it's worth re-attaching the U shaped clip. I can't see how it hurts to leave it off, but I left my faith with the Yamaha engineers and put it back on. Re-attach both cable ends, don't forget to pry metal retainer down at clutch end. Adjust cable tension per manual.
 
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W

wrightme43

Awesome man thanks for the write up. I stuck (makes it easy to find) the thread in the how to area as well.
 

maverick1970

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I just finished replacing my clutch cable. It was rough but not to bad. I was a little FREAKED OUT at first because when I reinstalled the PUSH LEVER ASSY (Picture #25 / Part #5VX-16340-00-00) the clutch wouldn't engage. I discovered that there is a little bit of free play in the PUSH LEVER AXLE (Picture #22 / Part #5VX-16382-00-00) and when I reinstalled the PUSH LEVER ASSY, the PUSH LEVER AXLE was turned counter clockwise vise all the way clockwise. All is good now.

http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm...D/8037/Model/FZ6/GroupID/382127/Group/CLUTCH_
 
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haylo

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I'd really recommend removing the airbox & battery, makes things so much easier, and overall I bet it's quicker, too.
 

Cmayer31

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Thanks for the write up. I get to do this sometime this weekend as mine snapped on me at 9k miles. I'm sure I missed some signs, but it sure looked fine last week and then chose a really crappy spot to let go today.
 

rlphay

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Thanks for the write up. I will be picking up my new cable on my way home from work tonight and hopefully getting it either installed tonight or tomorrow. Should be fun.

Thanks again
 

06Fz6

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I actually tightened mine the other day... and i had to use the adjustments on the cable. i didnt need to take anything off just disconnect both ends. where that clip is he is talking about i just took some PB and lubed it up and with a screw driver helped it out i just simply pulled it out. but without the lub and the screw drive it would be almost impossible and you could reinsinstall it the same way as well... to each is own but thats what i found easiest as i did not have allen keys long enough to get airbox off lol. great post though!
 

Circle

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At this point, I suggest trial fitting the cable and making sure the upper tensioner will get the adjustment you need. If not, you can still reach the lower tensioner to adjust as necessary. Now just push the cable in between the frame and air cleaner - it's a tight fit, but it will go. It's up to you to decide if it's worth re-attaching the U shaped clip. I can't see how it hurts to leave it off, but I left my faith with the Yamaha engineers and put it back on. Re-attach both cable ends, don't forget to pry metal retainer down at clutch end. Adjust cable tension per manual.

A Big thank you for the write up Brandad!:thumbup: I replaced my cable out over the Christmas holidays and your post was like a shinning example to me!

I found (and this may be different for others) that bending the new cable in half (like an A frame, pointing down towards the airbox), slipping each end through, and squeezing the apex between the frame and airbox saved me about 34 grey hairs in frustration, rather than edging/jiggling it up or down, parallel past the frame.
 

mikw73

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This write-up was a huge help. I have a 2006 FZ6, so my experience may have been a bit different. I had a friend help, and he suggested removing the frame a couple of times. I'm not sure he was joking. Running the new cable was a bigger pain than I had expected. Getting that clip undone was bad, but running the new cable was much worse. I was unable to get the clip re-attached without removing the airbox, so I'd recommend just removing it to start. You will need long allen keys, but the allen bolts are not very tight at all. I have some long allen key sockets that i pop on the end of my 3/8" drive adapter for my electric screwdriver. The keys were $17 on Amazon, and the three-piece adapter kit was about $4, years ago. I use it all the time.

Oh, and don't try this with really a full gas tank. Raising your tank high enough to get the airbox out when fill will cause some gas to drain out the vent tubes.
 

mikw73

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I think I will be attempting this. What is the purpose - and how do I adjust - the locknuts in the midsection of the cable?

diagram

Joe

The purpose for me was to prevent failure of the cable. My clutch got A LOT harder to pull in recent weeks, and lubing only helped a little bit. The things don't last forever, and while you can power shift while moving, getting going from a stop without a clutch is beyond my riding skills. Would mean a bad day on the road if it broke. My bike has about 8K miles. I did notice that the seal on the lower (engine) end of the cable was missing on my old cable, though. Probably accelerated its demise, what with dirt and junk getting into the housing.

I have little clue as to the purpose of the locknuts in the middle. They are in the same area as the clup, and may be for the clip to have a place to hold without damaging the housing. or it could well be an additional adjustment point? If so, it is in a terrible place, seeing as you have to remove the airbox to get to it. Or at least you have to remove the airbox to replace the clip that holds it in place after you've gotten to it. Maybe they just want to make absolutely sure we check the air filter regularly? (Mine's OK.)
 

CHEMIKER

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This write-up was a huge help. I have a 2006 FZ6, so my experience may have been a bit different. I had a friend help, and he suggested removing the frame a couple of times. I'm not sure he was joking. Running the new cable was a bigger pain than I had expected. Getting that clip undone was bad, but running the new cable was much worse. I was unable to get the clip re-attached without removing the airbox, so I'd recommend just removing it to start. You will need long allen keys, but the allen bolts are not very tight at all. I have some long allen key sockets that i pop on the end of my 3/8" drive adapter for my electric screwdriver. The keys were $17 on Amazon, and the three-piece adapter kit was about $4, years ago. I use it all the time.

Oh, and don't try this with really a full gas tank. Raising your tank high enough to get the airbox out when fill will cause some gas to drain out the vent tubes.

Sorry you had so much trouble. I removed my battery and airbox beforehand, and the cable was a snap to replace. It took maybe an hour total.

What did you need the long allen keys for? I just undid the three hoses from the airbox and wiggled it off.
 

chomorro

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Where are you guys buying your clutch cables?? I was going to try cheap cycle parts since its advertised in the banner. I want to change it out asap since im worried of it braking and it already has a lot of miles.

Should the throttle cables be replaced just as frequently?
 

CHEMIKER

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Where are you guys buying your clutch cables?? I was going to try cheap cycle parts since its advertised in the banner. I want to change it out asap since im worried of it braking and it already has a lot of miles.

Should the throttle cables be replaced just as frequently?

I bought mine from my local Yamaha dealer. It was only $20 or so, and it took a couple of days to arrive.

Whether the throttle cable needs to be replaced at the same time depends on their condition. I replaced one of my throttle cables at the same time as my clutch cable because it was shot. The cables all run through the frame in the same spot, so if you need to replace more than one, do them at the same time.
 

edmaine3

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This is an excellent "How to" for replacing the clutch cable on a FZ6. Could not have done it and so easily without this well done, step-by-step, and photographed procedure. Thanks!
 

teeter

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I removed my battery and airbox beforehand, and the cable was a snap to replace. It took maybe an hour total.
I just replaced my clutch cable this weekend. I pulled the airbox also. I trust it made things easier in the end, but the airbox was interesting to remove and re install this time. I've done it now and it will certainly be quick and easy in the future

What did you need the long allen keys for? I just undid the three hoses from the airbox and wiggled it off.
See below - item 15. I assumed the same the same thing that Mikw73 did. I loosened the rings for airbox removal and tightened them after re-installation. Was this unnecessary? I didn't have long allen wrenches either, but I found a 4mm hex bit in the tool box that did the trick when connected to an interchangeable driver "thing." Of course I had to loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten.. over and over while trying to get all the hoses in place and the airbox and battery tray fitted just right.
RA-intake.jpg
 
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mikw73

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What did you need the long allen keys for?

I always use them with an electric screwdriver to remove the two tank front bolts, and used them to loosen and tighten the four clamps that hold the airbox to the throttle body.

It wasn't too bad a job--took less than an hour. I had a friend helping who said a few times "Now is the time to remove the frame." The frame is in the way on this job for sure, but it's doable.
 
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