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Howto: accurate and quick wheel alignment for 04-06 models

n0other

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I've first posted this method here and it was confirmed as accurate using the string method by another member in this post.

Wheel alignment using alignment marks on the swingarm is error prone as they often mud up and are too spaced out for an accurate alignment. Most members use the so called string method to further align the wheel but I feel there's an easier way for 04-06 models that use identical bolts and nuts on both sides of the swingarm. Once aligned using the aligntment marks you can measure the exposed thread on both sides of the alignment bolts using vernier caliper and adjust as necessary.

Alignment marks below

alignment_marks.jpg


You will need a tool like this (depth probe to check exposed thread marked)

vernier_caliper.jpg


Once aligned using the alignment marks, check the length of exposed thread on the left

left.jpg


And right, further aligning for these to match perfectly

right.jpg


It will not work for 07 and on as the swingarm was revised (image not mine)

07_swingarm.JPG
 
I've first posted this method here and it was confirmed as accurate using the string method by another member in this post.

Wheel alignment using alignment marks on the swingarm is error prone as they often mud up and are too spaced out for an accurate alignment. Most members use the so called string method to further align the wheel but I feel there's an easier way for 04-06 models that use identical bolts and nuts on both sides of the swingarm. Once aligned using the aligntment marks you can measure the exposed thread on both sides of the alignment bolts using vernier caliper and adjust as necessary.

Alignment marks below

alignment_marks.jpg


You will need a tool like this (depth probe to check exposed thread marked)

vernier_caliper.jpg


Once aligned using the alignment marks, check the length of exposed thread on the left

left.jpg


And right, further aligning for these to match perfectly

right.jpg


It will not work for 07 and on as the swingarm was revised (image not mine)

07_swingarm.JPG
Is it more important for the wheels to be aligned or the chain and sprockets? I maintain the wheels. Here is how I've done it for years, and a race bike I wrenched for went 185 at Daytona.
Put bike on centerstand(aren't they wonderful), Tie a string to back of rear tire,(as high as possible to avoid anything under bike) put bike in 1st, run string to front wheel go around and back to back of rear wheel. Turn handlebars until the gap at back edge of front tire is equal on both sides-now front wheel is straight ahead. The gap is due to the rear tire being wider than front. Now get down and sight forward along the string on both sides. You'll notice at the front edge of rear tire the string is bent due again to the difference in widths. Its easy to get that bend the same by using the chain adjusters.
Or if you expect to do 185+ Get two pencils trap one on either side of the back edge of rear tire under the string. Now the string misses the front edge of rear tire. Use a metric rule and measure that gap!
From then on think of the adjusters as a micrometer and turn each one the exact amount each time you adjust the chain. Also hit stoutly forward the rear wheel each time the axle is loose to ensure the wheel is all the way forward as you tighten the nut.
If the chain is not aligned, ever, the swingarm or the wheel needs to be centered in the frame which is a whole different ball game. Good luck!
 
nOother, just as a side note, get some lube on that chain, you literally have RUST showing on the side plates...:thumbup:

Heya, the chain is lubed up, just the inner part though, side plates I don't consider critical as long as rubber O rings are intact and rollers are lubricated should be alright. I've tried cleaning the sides up but Motul chain clean + toothbrush didn't take them, I didn't want anything more abrasive.

This is a good video to watch to those who didn't, he also talks about lubricating critical surfaces around 11 minute mark.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vc4tP8kmAX0]O-ring bike chain critical maintenance - YouTube[/ame]
 
Yes, that is the intention :) you can align with strings and check exposed thread just to be sure and if it's alright continue using this method.



That's exactly what I did...and it turned out to be accurate to .01 of a mm. :thumbup:
 
I found that on my FZ6 I can get the alignment very accurate by simply measuring the distance (using a metric scale rule) from the inside edge of the swing arm to the edge of the wheel at the bead on both sides. When it is the same on both sides your wheel is in line with the center-line of your bike which is certainly more accurate than using the marks on the rear axle, but probably not as accurate as the string method.
 
I tried using this method today to align my rear wheel.

A few days ago, I looked down at my rear right adjuster and noticed it was a little loose. Tightened it up some (without loosening rear axle), and then rode. I felt a slight right bend to the handlebars on the highway, which means that the rear wheel is also pointing a bit right. I measured exposed thread after tightening everything and the right adjuster had about .8mm less thread exposed than the left side.

This didn't make sense, as (assuming that your method is accurate) this means that my wheel was pointing to the left. The feeling I was getting on the highway said the wheel was pointing to the right.

I adjusted them both to be equal today and what do you know, the handlebars feel like they are turned to the right even more! So my conclusion is that this method is not the most accurate. You are depending on a protruding steel bolt and nuts that are not perfectly made. If, say my bolt has a knick in it from a tool hitting the edge, the measurement could be off. If the nut is corroded or otherwise dirty, the measurement is off.

I am going to loosen up the right side adjuster tonight and move the wheel to the left a bit. Trial and error on the highway will tell me when my wheel is aligned.
 
I found that on my FZ6 I can get the alignment very accurate by simply measuring the distance (using a metric scale rule) from the inside edge of the swing arm to the edge of the wheel at the bead on both sides. When it is the same on both sides your wheel is in line with the center-line of your bike which is certainly more accurate than using the marks on the rear axle, but probably not as accurate as the string method.

Thought of this, but then I noticed the left side of the swingarm is further from the tire than the right side to accomodate the chain and sprocket. So the wheel is not perfectly centered in the swingarm, but with the centerline of the bike instead.
 
So I made some more adjustments and I think I have it pretty close to centered now. Bars feel straight on the highway, chain is running centered in the sprocket, not off to one side. Drivetrain feels smooth and quiet.

Measured the exposed bolt and the right side is 6.9mm, left side is 8.4mm.

On another note, I think my left fork seal is leaking. Great...
 
Thought of this, but then I noticed the left side of the swingarm is further from the tire than the right side to accomodate the chain and sprocket. So the wheel is not perfectly centered in the swingarm, but with the centerline of the bike instead.
Interesting. I'll have to revisit this to double check. My bike tracks straight and feels great and tire wear looks ideal.

So I made some more adjustments and I think I have it pretty close to centered now. Bars feel straight on the highway, chain is running centered in the sprocket, not off to one side. Drivetrain feels smooth and quiet.

Measured the exposed bolt and the right side is 6.9mm, left side is 8.4mm.

On another note, I think my left fork seal is leaking. Great...

What exactly did you do to fix your alignment?
 
Interesting. I'll have to revisit this to double check. My bike tracks straight and feels great and tire wear looks ideal.



What exactly did you do to fix your alignment?

The bike will track straight even if your alignment is off. The front wheel will compensate for any misalignment in the rear and you will be travelling straight, but the bike will be crooked.


All I did was adjust the adjusters until the sprocket looked centered in the chain, took it for a spin, confirmed that the handlebars were pointing straight on the highway, and then adjusted for chain tension.
 
The bike will track straight even if your alignment is off. The front wheel will compensate for any misalignment in the rear and you will be travelling straight, but the bike will be crooked.


All I did was adjust the adjusters until the sprocket looked centered in the chain, took it for a spin, confirmed that the handlebars were pointing straight on the highway, and then adjusted for chain tension.

Hmmm....

Are you saying you adjusted it so the sprocket would appear to ride in the center of the chain, instead off off to one side? I'm not convinced that would be a sure indication of proper alignment but if the handlebars are straight and the bike tracks straight I'm sure it's close.

I'm pretty sure my chain tracks to the wheel side of my rear sprocket. I'll have to play with it this weekend.
 
Yes, I adjusted so that the sprocket would appear to ride in the center of the chain. If your sprocket rides to one side or the other, your rear wheel is out of alignment. A small misalignment might hardly be noticeable, but it doesn't take much to really feel the difference in the way the handlebar is aligned on a straight stretch of road.
 
This did not work for me. I have a .1 difference from the brake side to the sprocket side (sprocket size is .9, brake side is 1.0).. Tire where seems absolutely normal and bike handles perfect.. Mines an 05 and unless I missed something, the 2 side are supposed to be equal??? Kinda confused.. Any ideas???

Edit: ok I read how this doesn't work and yea, my passenger side (if it were a car) is noticeably loose (not going anywhere but makes a rattle) and the two sides are noticeably off.. With a caliper it's 25.02mm on the right and 23.13mm on the left.. I suppose this is good to know as now I think I could swap my chain and get the tire back to the same place relatively simply.. At least you help me relearn to use my digital caliper correctly !!!
 
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Edit: ok I read how this doesn't work and yea, my passenger side (if it were a car) is noticeably loose (not going anywhere but makes a rattle)

As I've mentioned before, this is the worst part about the 04-06 models IMO. The right side adjuster always loosens up as you are tightening the axle. You have to keep a lot of forward pressure on the rear tire or keep kicking it forward as you tighten the axle in order to keep the right side adjuster plate snug against the swingarm. And as we both now know, there is no good way to align the rear wheel, other than the string method. It appears that different bikes are all off a little.
 
I would think once you have the base measurements from a good alignment, you can then use the base numbers to align.. I would think things might change if you adjust for chain slack, but I would think they would still move together. Op might be on to something with the digital caliper.. I would want someone to take measurements and then have someone swap new tires and retake measurements. I would think they would mostly line up..


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