Ignition Switch

liamstears

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Have the problem with my ignition switch where I have to pull the key to a certain angle before it will turn

Want to get this fixed up without buying a new lock set and I know this can be done but need a donor ignition

My question though is what other ignitions are identical to my bike?

I have the 04 FZ6 with immobiliser but looking at the switch itself it looks as though older fazers and R6's use the exact same ignition just without the immobilizer part

Is this right? Don't want to buy another ignition and the parts not be compatible (basically need the lock barrel itself from a donor unit)

Thanks in advance
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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I think as long as you stick with an 04-09 FZ (S1 and S2) known here in the states, you can't go wrong.

For S&G's, did you try cleaning out the barrel of your current switch?

There should be a drain hole in the switch and squirting some thin lubricant may wash out any crap that has accumulated in there causing your issue.


*With the immobilizer, I have no idea where they place that in regards to the actual switch...

.
 

FinalImpact

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+5 For cleaning with an oil based solvent and turning key repeatedly. Solvent should run out the bottom. Once the black stops leaking out, you need to pump the key hole full of grease. Again. Key in and out lots and lots of times wiping it off repeatedly....

The reason being the keys and ignition barrel are registered to the ECU and Immobilizer. If you have to replace the switch, you also replace all the keys, locks, ECU, and immobilizer and then you can re-register the red and black keys.

Or Scott has a link to send ECU off to get it paired....

There may be other options too but we'll leave it at this for now.
 

agf

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Was talking to my mechanic about thos on Mo nday
He said go to a locksmith get them to flush the barrel with contact cleaner ( i guess its a solvent based high evaporative electronics solvent)
And then use grafite
Definitely never WD 40
Its common problem to get muck n grime due to the location
Here in Australia to re key costs about $1K due to immobilser and tank and seat and helmet lock barrels- all yam parts at top $


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bricksrheavy

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Ooops - used a copious amount of the "Mechanics deodorant" aka WD40 on mine, so any electronic contact spray is fine?
 

FinalImpact

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WD works as a solvent breaking down grime and the original grease. But it alone evaporates leaving nothing behind.

A synthetic waterproof light grease has been my choice for tumblers. Bicycle shops seem to carry these products more often than auto shops. Anyway, once free and moving I force grease into the slot and work the key repeatedly. One case a bikes switch was so dry engine oil via syringe and then grease brought it salvation.

Mind you the switch and lock are seperate entities.
 

Motogiro

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WD-40 is a great product when used for it's intended application. The WD stands for water displacement. It works well as an immediate remedy for lube in wet or dry locations but becomes gummy as time passes and is not intended and should not be employed for high speed applications such as bearings in motors.

Electronics contact cleaners are great as cleaners because they generally will emulsify shellac type build up and may provide some lubrication depending on the product.

After contact cleaner I like to use silicone spray lube in my locks. Silicone spray has a stable viscosity over a wide range of temperature. It's thin and you can flood the lock mechanism insuring lubricant to more of the mechanism. It also does not leave solids that can build up and give you problems.
 

agf

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The mech i was talking with reckons the WD 40 residue actually holds grime- funny that grafite as a solid, would like wise actas some what of an abrasive, but it has been in usefor years. I use a silicone lube (for bicycle chains)on the gear shifter linkage but have not thought about it for the lock . I think I'll give it a good clean and may give it shot. My biggestconcern is justresidual gunk amassing and continuing to make the key hard to turn in the lock


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FinalImpact

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Adrian, is your bike out in the elements often? As in, does the key end up w moisture in it often?

If you think about how a lock works, the components are subject to both shear and wiping. Add moisture and basic lubes fail. Hence, light synthetic grease being a good choice.

Its like all these adds for teflon chain lube, yes it works for a while but bulk petroleum products last longer than thin films when exposed to the elements...
JM2C.. .. ..
 

liamstears

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Thanks for all the replies guys

Unfortunately though none are helpful to my situation this time, in many cases your comments do help greatly but in my scenario the ignition really is f***** lol

Have literally had the whole thing apart to the point that I have had the barrel/cylinder out of the ignition and removed the pins and examined the barrel/cylinder itself, the barrel/cylinder is bad

It has worn inside the barrel/cylinder so that the key doesn't go in straight it goes in sideways, the result of having too much weight on the keys by a previous rider that has cause irreversible damage to the lock barrel/cylinder

The way to fix without changing all locks or buying new parts is to replace the barrel/cylinder with a known good barrel/cylinder from a donor ignition and simply swap over the pins from my barrel/cylinder to the donor barrel/cylinder so my key works

So therefore anyone got any ideas on my initial question?

Hope you helpful guys can fill in some blanks here

Cheers!
 

agf

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7163b1e629d3822befaf7c65d29bcb19.jpg



I'm going to squirt some of this in once i cover all the painted surfaces and then try the silicone lube- my bike is garaged at night and pretty sheltered during the day, but i am an all weather rider so if its wet out and i need to be somewhere else the bike is my only option

I'll have a good look at all my lubes see what might be suitable

One question tho Randy, does the actual key stay greasy? What brand do you use?


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FinalImpact

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OP - if you have this apart at that level, buy the cheapest switch you can from the same years and its very likely the internals are the same. Your main goal here is keeping your original key and outer body with the coil assembly so your immobilizer will accept your keys.

If you know the tumbler pin size and order reassemble with less damaged parts. The question now becomes are the immobilizer internal key parts the same as none immobilizer units? No clue. But grab a cheap switch with cut wires/damage and take it apart.

Best I can offer...
 

FinalImpact

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Adrian, yes it will have a tiny film for a while. You'll get 97% of it off during your initial insert, pull, wipe, insert, repeat cycle. Figure 10min of in out wipe. :thumbup:
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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OP - if you have this apart at that level, buy the cheapest switch you can from the same years and its very likely the internals are the same. Your main goal here is keeping your original key and outer body with the coil assembly so your immobilizer will accept your keys.

If you know the tumbler pin size and order reassemble with less damaged parts. The question now becomes are the immobilizer internal key parts the same as none immobilizer units? No clue. But grab a cheap switch with cut wires/damage and take it apart.

Best I can offer...

Once you find a second switch, you should have enough tumblers, etc to make a good one...

PM "Scooter65", he's usually parting out a bike. Also check the classifieds in this forum/post a WTB...



Should you end up with a new switch, this company can help with the immobilizer:

https://www.carmo.nl/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4106&sort=20a&language=en



.
 

Pujazuba

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Adrian, yes it will have a tiny film for a while. You'll get 97% of it off during your initial insert, pull, wipe, insert, repeat cycle. Figure 10min of in out wipe. :thumbup:
Sometimes (in a very different setting) the tendency will be opposite to 'wipe & insert'...:D
Sorry I couldn't resist!
 
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