LCD Screen Intermittent Problem

alexfabian

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Hello All,

I have recently encountered a new problem with my naked FZ6, during a ride out the LCD screen randomly turned off and also the Rev counter stopped working as well. This has happened a few more times since and I'm struggling to find out the route cause? The the bike still runs fine, all of the lights and indicators work fine (including the turn signal lights above the lcd screen. The bike is a 2007.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 

Motogiro

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Sounds like it may be an internal problem inside the unit. Could be a component or a bad land on the circuit board. One of our members repaired a cluster not to long ago so it is possible to fix and worth the labor if it not a toasted component. [MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION]
 
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FinalImpact

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You might pull the plug from it and remove the screws from the back and inspect it.
There should be no brown, black, or green growth on the connector pins (either side). If you open it, nothing growing on the circuit board either.
Keep in mind the printed circuit board assembly (PCBA) is static sensitive and can be damaged static. Should you open the housing, handle the PCBA only by its edges. Touch a gronded item like the stove to discharge gathered energy before touching pcba.

Let us know what you find.
It could be the bikes harness or the power to the gauge. It needs a stable connection for ground and power.
 

alexfabian

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Thanks for the replies, I've taken the back off the unit itself. After de connecting the pins and having a good inspect there appears to be nothing at faults in the speedo case/circuit board.
I have also removed the tank and inspected cleaned the connectors under there as well.

During all of the inspecting the speedo worked fine, I tried moving some of the cable looms around to try and make it turn off but nothing!
Took it out for a ride later that day and it turned off again!!!

I'm out of ideas on where to look now???
 

alexfabian

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I'm also struggling to use a multimeter to test the wires for voltages as the speedo/rev counter tends to work when it's in the garage and turns off around 5/10 mins into the ride. Them usually comes back on around 10/15 mins later
 

FinalImpact

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I'm also struggling to use a multimeter to test the wires for voltages as the speedo/rev counter tends to work when it's in the garage and turns off around 5/10 mins into the ride. Them usually comes back on around 10/15 mins later


Does it display engine temperature or distance traveled or any of the LCD data?
Can you be very specific about everything that does work - list name and those items that turn off. List by name.

The Bikes ECU has a single data wire that does many functions like:
RPM, Engine and air temp (S2), distance, speed, Check engine light data, etc. If this wire is compromised, those items would be lost (Color is Yellow w/Blue trace/ ECU ground is Black w/White trace).

If it lost power, other functions would fail also; Does the Neutral indicator work?


A hand held meter with a Volt and ohms option. I'm out of time for a proper response but in short:
Volt meter measures voltage potential. Placing your volt meter acorss the battery should display about 12.9V when off.

Find a way to verify the meter has both +12V power and Ground. Basically gain access to the cable harness while the meter is plugged in and place your probes across:
GND: Black w/White trace
Power1: Red w/White trace
Power2: Red w/Yellow trace (although it gets its power from Power1:
 

alexfabian

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Thanks for the reply!!!!
The fault I have is that the screen completely looses power (no back light, no speed, no temp, no clock, nothing on the LCD part, also the Rev counter stops working as well). The parts that do work when the screen/rev counter goes off are indicator turn signals, neutral light, alarm light, high beam.
I have not had chance to check the lines you have mentioned but will be able to do it tomorrow at some point.

Once again thanks for the reply!!!
 

FinalImpact

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That sounds like you've lost power - but it seems to be temperature related or is it shock and movement?

Silly but; pull all fuses and reseat them.
Lift the tank and go on a mission; unplug EVERY connector having more than 4 wires into and out of it. Inspect all mating contacts for damage. Also inspect that nothing near the frame head (steering area) is wearing on the harness. Repeat under left pod.

If none of that helps - yes, a meter and test lamp will become your new friends!
So, pick up an automotive 12V test lamp. It will have a pointy end for probing, an incandescent bulb, a longer lead with a clip to attach too. Very handy and must have for trouble shooting No power conditions.
 

alexfabian

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From looking at the circuit diagram for the unit itself it shares the same power line in as the neutral light. So when the screen goes off and the neutral light still works is it pointing towards a circuit board issue on the back of the LCD screen??
image.jpg
 

alexfabian

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I don't think it is movement/shock related as when I've had the bike in bits and with the screen functional I've moved around the bikes and wires and cannot get the screen to turn off at all?
 

FazerFlokk

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Hi alexfabian, I am a new member to the forum and was hoping to resolve the same problem you've experienced. I am assuming you fixed the screen??? Can yo tell me what it was and what you did? Cheers!
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Hi alexfabian, I am a new member to the forum and was hoping to resolve the same problem you've experienced. I am assuming you fixed the screen??? Can yo tell me what it was and what you did? Cheers!

Last time he posted was TWO YEARS ago... Probably not going to respond.

Do a search under member "FinalImpacts" posts. He's addressed taking it apart, etc..
 

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AndyOz

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Not sure of the connection method on a FZ yet but had issues with Honda clocks and eventually found circuit contact relied on the screw fixings into the base of the clocks, rust build up on the spring washer preventing contact. Hopefully a better design on the YAM
Sat with a magnifying glass looking for suspected solder issues and cracks, then powered up with a 12v remote supply. IE 12vdv appliance charger and the schematic.
 
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