Naked converted FZ6, how could I go about getting low and high beam functionality?

CanadaFZ6

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Okay here's the dilemma, put a ebay single headlight on my FZ6 because I crashed and broke the fairing.

Obviously the fairing model has two headlight connectors, for the single H4 bulb in it now, I'm using the old highbeam connector, so in order for the light be on I need to leave the highbeam switch on (so the blue HB light is also always on).

I'd like to wire this somehow so I can get the low and high beam functionality back. I understand H4 bulbs are dual filament? Can someone smarter than I explain how should I switch around the wires I have available for that I can get the low/high function back using one connector only?

Thanks a lot for any help.
 

Motogiro

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The FZ6 for the US and other countries that was made with the half fairing had 2 headlight, On was and H7 use for the low beam and the other lamp was and H4. The H4 was a dual filament but was only wired to use the high beam filament. They did not continue the wire through the harness from a plug assembly that is below the battery. That would be the low beam filament for the naked models which was continued for the naked bikes. If you look you will find a low beam wire. It's a black with a green tracer. That was the wire that supplied voltage to your original H7 low beam. The problem with using that wire is that because it was going to a discreet lamp with no other filament it did not have to be shut off when the high beam was used to prevent overheating.
Right now you are using the black with a yellow tracer (high beam) wire to power your single filament, hence your high beam dash light is active. If you're only interested in one filament running and want to get rid of the blue hi beam indicator, swap the wire for the black with the green tracer.

If you want to wire the headlamp for full hi/lo beam operation there is more work to be done.
 

CanadaFZ6

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The FZ6 for the US and other countries that was made with the half fairing had 2 headlight, On was and H7 use for the low beam and the other lamp was and H4. The H4 was a dual filament but was only wired to use the high beam filament. They did not continue the wire through the harness from a plug assembly that is below the battery. That would be the low beam filament for the naked models which was continued for the naked bikes. If you look you will find a low beam wire. It's a black with a green tracer. That was the wire that supplied voltage to your original H7 low beam. The problem with using that wire is that because it was going to a discreet lamp with no other filament it did not have to be shut off when the high beam was used to prevent overheating.
Right now you are using the black with a yellow tracer (high beam) wire to power your single filament, hence your high beam dash light is active. If you're only interested in one filament running and want to get rid of the blue hi beam indicator, swap the wire for the black with the green tracer.

If you want to wire the headlamp for full hi/lo beam operation there is more work to be done.
Thank you, this is a huge help. Too bad that it won't be as simple as I was hoping, but what ever is. :)

In the mean time, I will be looking into this wire change so I can run off the low beam power supply, and no longer have the high beam dash light lit up. I was hoping to gain full functionality back so if I ever sold the bike it would pass the safety to be transferred to a new owner (requires a low/high function by law).

Thanks again.
 

Motogiro

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Here is some additional info that should help you get your switched low beam going. The green wire on this plug (bottom pic will be the switched lo beam. As you can see the green wire does not have a receiving pin in the plug.
Keep in mind, the headlamp circuits do not become active until the engine has been started. Once the engine is started and the headlamp circuit is active you can hit the kill switch to turn the engine off and it will leave the headlamp circuit active until you turn the ignition switch to the off position.

 

CanadaFZ6

Member
Ah, so I was wrong, I incorrectly assumed the H4 bulb in the FZ made use of both filaments but nope, as you said the low beam is not used! Interesting. That's a nice write up, quite a wealth of information here. I love it
 

Ohendo

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Some additional information that may be helpful. My LED replacement H4 bulb is designed to run both the high beam and lo beam circuits simultaneously.
All you would need to do to get Hi/lo function back in your single H4 is to feed your unused lo beam power to the connector.

Prior to upgrading to LED's, I ran the Motogiro mod (Thx Cliff!), which jumpered the lo beam power over to the H4, allowing both headlamps to light. But you don't want the hi/lo on an incandescent lit at the same time, so Cliff's setup used a relay to de-energize the lo beam power to the H4 when the hi beam was energized.

Anyway...after upgrading to LED's, I noticed that when the hi beam was switched on, the lo beam LED strip did NOT de-energize. In fact, when I disconnect Cliff's jumper wire and examine the hi beam LED, both hi/lo strips stay lit up. The LED design needs both sets of LED strips energized I guess. So I simplified things and completely removed the Motogiro mod (sorry Cliff!) and just have a jumper wire from lo beam power on H7 over to the low beam power on the H4 for the sole pupose of having both headlights on when on low beams.

In summary, I believe that if you install an H4 LED bulb in your single headlight setup (such as from the link below) that all you would have to do to get hi/lo functionality is find your unused lo beam power supply wire and run it into the H4 connector. I've been running the linked LED's below for a few years now, no issues. They're bright and reliable. Hope this helps.

https://ebay.us/owgDe5
 
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Motogiro

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Yes an LED setup might be the way to go. I noticed that switching was not needed with the LED setup I was running on my SV1000s. LED lamp that I purchased did not have a decent life span and I went back to Halogens.
 

CanadaFZ6

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Definitely interested in doing that. So when I have the H4 LED with hi and low, I have the normal 3 hole connector that the factory high beam (right side when sitting on bike) connector uses. Which lead would I remove from it to replace with the new low beam connector?

Thanks guys for your help
 

CanadaFZ6

Member
Found this nice wiring diagram to help me wrap my head around this a little better. I am currently using the right side connector, so pink-white/black-yellow/white-yellow. At least I'm 90% sure thats the connector I'm using because my headlight is off when the switch is down, and on when the switch is flicked up.

Edit: Looks like google image may have misled be and this might not be a FZ6 diagram so colors are wrong but same idea... maybe. Still looking for a large enough image to read that is for a fz6



Capture.PNG
 
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Motogiro

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Found this nice wiring diagram to help me wrap my head around this a little better. I am currently using the right side connector, so pink-white/black-yellow/white-yellow. At least I'm 90% sure thats the connector I'm using because my headlight is off when the switch is down, and on when the switch is flicked up.

Edit: Looks like google image may have misled be and this might not be a FZ6 diagram so colors are wrong but same idea... maybe. Still looking for a large enough image to read that is for a fz6
Private message me and I will help you with proper documentation. :)
 

CanadaFZ6

Member
My reading here has made me realize why I burned out a bulb in less than a month. Using the high beam connector I think I was unknowingly turning on both elements on my bulb and killed it. It happened coming home from picking up food, right when it was getting fully dark out and I was 15 minutes away from home. That ride was sketchy to say the least.
 

Motogiro

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Here is the pin configuration looking at the back of the bulb or connector.
Keep in mind the low beam must turn off when the high beam is active...
As you've experienced, loosing your headlamp can yield serious problems.

 

CanadaFZ6

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I am happy to just buy a H4 LED that can handle both filaments and be done with it if it will be a hassle. I just wanted it working for resale some day to pass the new owner safety inspection repuired by the province.

I am very mechanically inclined (building dirt bike motors etc) but electrical is chinese to me so I am very interested in learning this all now that I've got into it, so I will probably continue on the path of wiring it somehow, but not in a dire rush.
 

Motogiro

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I run an LED on my converted FZ6N and have just accepted that the hi-beam is always on. I do so little night riding that I just don't care.
Are you saying the hi beam signal is always on or the hi beam LED is always on with the low beam signal?
I had an LED unit that was locked on hi beam with just the lo beam signal because it was a reversed diode internally. In fact there were a whole batch of them that were bad. If you have the H4 LED replacement it should run just the lo beam on lo beam setting.
The LEDs seem to keep the lo beam on even with the hi beam on.
 

CanadaFZ6

Member
That looks like a cool unit. Will this light pass your local inspection?
The light its self will not be an issue, but the lack of high/low switch function would be (unless you find a chill inspector). I don't need to get it inspected luckily, only needs to be done when switching owners and then you're good forever. No plans to sell at the moment. Too fun and cheap insurance compared to anything close to this fast.
 
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