Oil/Filter for 2005 FZ6S (Adelaide area)

mave2911

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G'day guys,
Planning to do a service on my new(ish) bike, and need to know where to source what oil/oil fiter please.

Any recommendations? (I have spent the last hour trawling through the oil/filter threads, but a lot of it doesn't seem to be OZ based, or not available in Adelaide.

So, what do you guys use for your Fizzers, where do you get it from - and how much will it cost me?

Cheers,
Rick
 

OZXJR

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I get mine from Yamaha world on south road,melrose park I think it is.
Runs at about $25 from memory,although next time I,m going to get a K&N online,they have the nut on them to get the thing off easier,can be a bitch with the stock ones.
 

mave2911

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I get mine from Yamaha world on south road,melrose park I think it is.
Runs at about $25 from memory,although next time I,m going to get a K&N online,they have the nut on them to get the thing off easier,can be a bitch with the stock ones.

Thanks Ozfazer.

Do you just get the Yamalube 4? Reading the thred about filters, it would appear the K&N might not be the best choice for filters either.

I don't know if we stock the recommended filter in OZ (Purolator Pure One PL14610)

I was thinking Motul 7100 fully synthetic or something, just don't know where to get it. (other than online - and it's EXPENSIVE!)

OR, maybe this is all overkill. I was here for the tail end of last years winter, so don't really know what to expect next year. (do I need anti-freeze coolant or the 10W30 oil for cooler temperatures in Mt Barker?)

The manual recommends 10W30 for temps between -10 to 30+ degrees and 20W40 for 5 to 45+ degrees. (can I use 20W50, is there a difference between car and motorcycle oils, would you recommend fully synthetic? (bike has 23500kms))

Cheers,
Rick
 

OZXJR

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I run motul 5100 and it seems just fine,dont touch that damn yamlube crap mate.

I wouldnt worry about antifrezze,I live in the southern foothills and have never had a problem :thumbup:
 

Kriswithak

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I've used the Motul 5100/7100 in my last three bikes and swear by it.
Any filter will do (if its a reputable brand), especially if its cheap/free with the oil (ask at the shops).

Oil is a subjective thing though, some people claim there is no difference between the cooking oil they use, or the truck oil they put in their bikes while others notice a major difference in the running depending on the oil.

Personally, I'm with those that notice a difference between the oils, and have tried the cheaper ones and not been happy. Not everyone is as observant though, and some just don't care, so there is often major wars over oil choices.
The don't notice/don't care's generally claim its a placebo effect on the other hand.

I avoid the Yamalube though, its terrible.

Just remember to tighten the filter on by hand, and not too tight, normally only an issue to get off if you overtightened it on, which is understandable so you don't end up with a leak, but not ideal.

Also NEVER EVER use car oil in your bike, it will destroy the clutch.
 

mave2911

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I've used the Motul 5100/7100 in my last three bikes and swear by it.
Any filter will do (if its a reputable brand), especially if its cheap/free with the oil (ask at the shops).

Apparently not! Interesting to see the K&N I was considering purchasing doesn't get a god rap either!

Oil is a subjective thing though, some people claim there is no difference between the cooking oil they use, or the truck oil they put in their bikes while others notice a major difference in the running depending on the oil. Personally, I'm with those that notice a difference between the oils, and have tried the cheaper ones and not been happy. Not everyone is as observant though, and some just don't care, so there is often major wars over oil choices.

I am very observant with my machines, so oil choice is an important one for me. At the moment, the bike has some Shell 20W50 4 stroke motorcycle oil (previous owner did his own servicing...) and the bike shifts like crap. (one of the reasons I was to try a good oil)

Just remember to tighten the filter on by hand, and not too tight, normally only an issue to get off if you overtightened it on, which is understandable so you don't end up with a leak, but not ideal.

Good advice, thank you. I have a filter removal tool (handle with a strap!) for just such an occurence though!

Also NEVER EVER use car oil in your bike, it will destroy the clutch.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it's only Friction Modified oils that are bad for a wet clutch?
 

Kriswithak

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Apparently not! Interesting to see the K&N I was considering purchasing doesn't get a god rap either!

I find this guys entire article rather interesting in my own cynical way.
I mean the part where he posts how car filters aren't recommended on bikes according to one of the filter companies he recommends - in fact the highly recommended 'best' filter??

Not to mention it is based on 30 'hours' of research - which seems to be mainly using Google....
I'd rather hear what the race teams use, that kind of information is important to me.

He also recommends the same type of oil for cars and bikes on another page of his website...? It costs $13 at the super market... (I've tried it and found it far worse than the Motul 7100 just in my experience - cheaper but no peace of mind).

Information like what kind of contaminants the filter catches, and what size those contaminants will be is far more important than just what particle size the filter can catch.
How likely these contaminants are to be created, or found in the engine, and how long between filter changes and oil changes, etc are all important facts he doesn't really bother covering.
Trucks have TWO whole filters? But how much oil do they contain compared to motorcycles? Trucks would do FAR more mileage than most motorcycles too, so how is this comparison in any way useful?

Motorcycles when new break in the engines, so of course there is alot more contaminants, hence the early services which seek to remove these asap.

Having browsed his site rather quickly and read through that page I find it extremely basic, lacking credibility and despite being the first Google result, not all that useful.
If I was to take this advice I would need to see at least 2-3 more sources saying the same thing independently, and very few if any sources that disagree.
His page ratings seem to be mainly based upon the age of his website, and quantity of pages.

The fact he totally avoids recommending motorcycle filters I feel is particularly worrying...
They may not be as good as some he does recommend, but motorcycle oil and filters are changed far more often than cars... quite possibly for a reason. If flow is more important than pure filtering, then we have found a simple solution for his findings, but he doesn't cover the whole topic of filters, only very basic parts which he obviously found information easily about.

The fact that the supplier of the recommended filter says it is not recommended for bikes because the oil pump may not have the power/pressure is to me rather telling. If its not designed for a bike it may be the best filter in the world, but if your oil pump fails because of it instead of just buying one designed for a bike well your not going to be getting any warranty repairs.

Now the K&N filter site specific to motorcycles states
"Traps 99% of harmful contaminants"
While they could be lying I would take their word as a supplier who has a name and reputation to defend and which is realistically their livelihood over someone whose motivation is unknown.

Is he being paid by certain brands to put this information online? Does he sell these products, does he have a stake in certain companies, or a grudge against certain companies?
Freedom of speech in America allows people to say almost anything. The internet can make this a larger problem.

If you are concerned I would contact K&N directly with the link and your concern, plus any additional questions.
They MAKE the filters after all.
I think they'll probably be able to shed a bit more light on the situation that someone who has done 30 hours of research.

Just my 2c.

Afterall there are always people who don't like brands or products, the hard part is finding good reviews and advice based on solid experiences and knowledge, not knee jerk reactions when a vendor rips them off or something goes wrong (and is often the consumers fault).
 

Wolfman

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7100 all the way...OEM oil filter all the way...

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

7100 is cheapest at GC motorcycles on South Road....

:thumbup:
 

mave2911

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7100 is cheapest at GC motorcycles on South Road....

According to the email I received today when I asked about prices, GC don't stock Motul 7100 - to quote, "5100 is high as we go" (and that's $76, the same as I paid for the 7100 from another retailer)

Their tyre prices, however, do seem very competitive.

Cheers,
Rick
 

BestBroseph

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car oils dont really like to tell you if they have any secret sauce in them, and most good brands do, as its wonderful for car engines. i use valvoline in my bike, yamalube is ****, i can notice the difference in shifting. Though idk, a tech at a dealership told me yamahas shift like **** no matter what you do so maybe i dont know what im talking about.
 

trepetti

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car oils dont really like to tell you if they have any secret sauce in them, and most good brands do, as its wonderful for car engines. i use valvoline in my bike, yamalube is ****, i can notice the difference in shifting. Though idk, a tech at a dealership told me yamahas shift like **** no matter what you do so maybe i dont know what im talking about.
Just look for JASO MA or JASO MA2 on the label. This means that the oil is certified to work with wet clutches. I use Shell Rotella T6 in my 05. Purchased in 2012 with 3k miles, about to hit 59k and never had a problem. As for how the fz6 shifts, I couldn't agree less with the 'expert'.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

BestBroseph

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ok, ive seen that on motorcycle oils. just did an oil change actually. the supertech synthetic from walmart is surprisingly good.
 
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