Ottimoto Installation Guide

bd43

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During this installation I took a few pictures in hopes of providing some useful documentation in what my opinion is on installing the Ottimoto rear sets on my 2007 FZ6. BTW, you can click over the pictures to access a higher resolution picture. Prior to and after the installation of the shifter and brake side sets, I took some measurements to compare the stock setup to the resulting Ottimoto setup, captured in another thread of mine…


To begin, I dealt with and bought my rear sets from Ron Fung at Ottimoto. Ron handled the order and the shipment arrived in a timely manner from Hong Kong. The pieces were well packed and organized.

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I took a picture of all the pieces laid out straight from the package to inventory all the parts in case the dog decided to run off with a piece.

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I decided to start with the shifter side as it looked less complicated and easy enough to do in a short duration of time and gain that needed accomplishment feeling to plow along.
First thing is to pull the rubber boot back exposing the rod end of the shift rod at the shift arm and remove the bolt and spacer behind the rod end.

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Remove the two bolts holding the rear set to the frame and wiggle rear set to free the rubber grommet in behind to the frame, then moving the rear set rearward sliding the shift rod through the frame to free the whole assembly. Sorry, no pictures here since I thought this was obvious.

Remove the rod end from the shift rod that was at the shift arm as it will be used on the new shift rod. The new shift rod has the stock rod end on the left with a right hand thread, and the right side rod end is a left handed thread. This picture shows the pieces that make up the new shift rod.

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Next attach the shift rod to the link arm using a M6 flat head screw, spacer between the link arm and the rod end, and a nylon lock nut.

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Using a M8 cap screw, attach the shift rod/link arm assembly to the setback plate in the middle set second from the bottom hole.

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This assembly will now be attached to the frame using two of the M8 cap screws and two of the spacers.

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Feed the shift rod through the frame, insert the cap screws through the setback plates, and add a spacer behind it.

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The torque spec on the stock bolts were 22 ft•lbs so I torqued these to the same spec. Re-attach the rod end to the shift arm with the stock screw and spacer.
 
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bd43

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Now check that the shift rod and linkage are not binding and move freely and return nicely via the return spring action of the shift arm and shift shaft. I found that even though it appears the rod has clearance on both sides to the frame, there is a cross member behind the frame that will rub against the rod! You can either loosen the shift arm and slide it inwards on the splined shift shaft, or add a washer to the spacer at the rod end connected to the link arm which moves the rod away from the frame. I chose to replace the black spacer with a new aluminum one I made adding 0.050” spacing.

The rod end and link arm with Ottimoto black spacer.

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The rod end and link arm with my aluminum 0.050” increased spacer size.

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Next, assemble the shifter rear set using blue thread locker on flat head screw for the foot peg, the screws for the carbon fiber heel guard, and the screw for the shifter peg.

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Use a M6 screw and spacer to attach the smaller shift rod to the link arm.

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Attach the rear set to the setback plate using the M8 cap screws in the last column of holes third from the bottom. I torqued these screws to 22 ft•lbs. Use a M6 nylon lock nut to fasten the small shift rod to the link arm.

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That concludes the shifter side rear set installation.

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bd43

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Now the brake side. It took some time to get things to align right, but once a person knows where to set the initial setup, it’s is actually quite easy.

First off, loosen the two bolts holding the rear brake cylinder to the rear set. You can at this time remove the cotter pin and pin attaching the brake cylinder bracket to the lever arm. I chose to leave it on to take a peek behind the rear set.

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With the rear of the rear set exposed, detach the rear brake cylinder, unhook the brake switch spring from the brake lever, and unscrewing the switch from the housing.

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Taking the setback plate with the two M8 cap screws and spacers,

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mount to frame and torque to 22 ft•lbs, same as the shifter side.

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In order for the rear brake cylinder to sit properly on the Ottimoto bracket and at the right alignment to the brake lever, I had to elongate the larger hole on the left inward or down in the picture by an additional 0.150” which a metal round file will do.

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I also used 1/4” flat washers and had to elongate the hole in one direction as well to clear the hole in the rear brake cylinder. A smaller round O.D. washer would have worked better, but this was all I had.

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We won’t mount the cylinder to the bracket at this time as I am just showing why the hole need to be elongated and the washers required to seat the cylinder properly to the bracket.

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Next, assemble the brake rear set and again use blue thread locker on the flat head screw to the foot peg, screw to the brake peg, screw to the brake light rod, and screws to the heel guard which will be the last thing we install. I have shown it attached, but heel guard is removed till the end.

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bd43

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Placing the brake cylinder mounting bracket over the rear set, mount the brake light switch plate to the bracket with blue thread locker applied to the round head screw in the lower hole shown. I found this location and orientation of the switch bracket best for the length of the stock spring and adjustment. Make sure the switch bracket is square to the light switch rod on the brake lever to reduce possible side loading on the switch when actuated.

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Remove the plastic brake switch nut from the stock rear set and thread onto the switch all the way to the top but leaving it loosely for re-adjustment later.

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Loosen the jam nut on the brake cylinder shaft and turn the bracket closer up the shaft to approximately 12mm from the brass nut as shown. Leave the jam nut loose for the time being as this will be a good starting point for adjustment later.

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Now mount the rear set to with the brake cylinder bracket behind it to the setback plate with the supplied M8 cap screws and torque to 22 ft•lbs, same as the shifter side.

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Placing the 1/4” washer with the elongated hole modified earlier on the brake cylinder and using the stock brake cylinder bolts, attach the brake cylinder to the bracket and leave loosely for the time being.


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Now slide the brake cylinder end onto the Ottiomoto supplied cap screw mounted to the end of the brake pedal lever followed by the nylon lock nut.

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Aligning the brake cylinder parallel with the bracket and torque screws to17 ft•lbs.

Notice by elongating the hole on the brake cylinder bracket how the alignment of the brake cylinder push rod from the cylinder to the pedal line is? Not doing this would put the push rod off at an angle which I don’t think is good for braking.

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Slip and snap in the brake light switch assembly into the switch light bracket behind the brake cylinder bracket and slip the end of the spring onto the brake switch rod on the brake lever.

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bd43

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Adjust the brake end bracket so the brake switch rod does not come into contact with the bottom of the rear set assembly. Once achieved, tighten the jam nut.

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Tighten in the nylon lock nut just so the brake push rod is still in a straight line with the cylinder.

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With the key in the ignition and turned on but the engine not running, adjust the brake light switch by turning the plastic nut in the direction to suitably actuate the tail light as per the service manual.

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Last thing now is to attach the heel guard with blue thread lock on the threads of the M6 screws and tighten.

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That’s it for the installation of the brake side. Check that the rear brake operation works, brake light works, everything is tightened, and any last go around checks, and take it for a spin.

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Last note that I have a tiny concern with is the increased bending of the brake line from the cylinder to the rear caliper, and the line from the reservoir to the brake cylinder. Maybe at the next brake fluid change I will replace both lines with shorter ones. We’ll see.

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Level of difficulty is around 5 out of 10. Not that hard. :rockon:

P.S.

Here were the leftover pieces I didn't use from the kit.

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Kanten

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Great write up chap!
I installed my rear sets tonight, and it was of great help. Everything was spot on exept for one thing; my breakline goes forward and up in the frame before it returns on the swingarm! The thing is that I don't have enough play in the breakline to straighten the cylinder up, and therefore I can't connect the break. I have the european S2-N. Do you have ABS? I haven't heard of anyone else having this problem, so I dont know if it's because it's a naked bike, ABS or if a Yamaha workshop ****ed something up earlier on.

Again, great work with the "how to"
 

bd43

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So how do you like them so far???

Overall I can say I really like them and glad I did the install. The shifting is definitely smooooooth. It places my body in a more aggressive position and I feel that it's easier to get into the turns better and I can tell as this year has been mostly city commuting where I'm cornering more. On the straight highways we have, it hasn't been anything to brag about on those out of the city adventures. I'm glad the mounting is adjustable as I dropped them down one hole because my legs started to cramp on longer trips (+250km). I would say that these rear sets are great for those doing track days and twisty roads on the majority of your rides. If you plan to tour then I'd say put your money towards something else.

Now the downside, and these are not major, but will require some ingenuity. The rear brake pedal has no return spring as the stock one has. The feel, tension, and return is completely left up to the brake cylinder's rebound to bring the pedal back. Adding the spring will definitely bring back the feel I was used to.

The other downside that I just noticed recently is the step arm of the center stand hits the heel guard and has created a small deformity at the point of contact on the carbon fiber guard. This happens because the center stand rubber bumper that prevents it from travelling beyond a certain height used to come into contact with the stock rear set at the base. Since that is no longer there, the stand bounces around in the up position. I will need to make a stop that will attach to the adjuster plate where the bumper swings up to.

dp_111104_01.jpg


I've circled the rubber bumper on the center stand. With the stand in the retracted position, the bumper is not up against anything to prevent it from bouncing upward.

These will probably be winter jobs for me as I'm told it's going to be a long and cold one. :(

Update: Did the rubber bumper finally, you can find that post here - http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/51597-ottimoto-revisited.html
 
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Motogiro

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These are exactly what I need on the SV. I've run the slashcut custom pegs all the way up and pole vaulted off the brake pedal!:eek: I need a little more clearance and this set looks like what I'd need!
 

lonesoldier84

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LOL

Where was this when I installed mine?!?!?

Man those were the biggest pain in the butt to install ever.

Worst part?

I crashed at the track the first time out with them and had to put the stock pegs back on haha.
 

sparkycrew

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hy mate have you sorted the brake master cylinder,should the cylinder go on front of the bracket so it lines up correctly with the pedal,i really wouldnt trust the bolt you fitted,iam a little dissapointed for as it looked like you had your work cut out fitting them,i have some gilles rearsets on mine and they went straight no problems,albert the supply and pressure lines look a little ugly now,the only other thing i have changed is the pegs, gilles suppled ones are horrid,a tapered peg with a bolt shape on the end(rubbish)ditched them for some pukka race pegs,hope you like yours,best thing i ever fitted on my bike
nick
 

Kazza

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Daryl, Santa (aka Mike) bought me these for Christmas. Unfortunately we had the gear side arm missing - still awaiting replacement.

Looks like your thread will be a real winner for us :D
 

elus1ve

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I did my install today and it seems some of the pieces are now different in the set I received, specially the spacers and the length of some of the bolts. Even with this excellent guide, it was a major pita to install it.

I ended up doing a few things very differently since the bolts I had were too short to do it the same as the guide, and have used ALL of the pieces. My brake line is not squeezed like the one in the guide. I didn't have to drill the bracket for the brake pump to align properly. Everything seems to be working great after much adjustments and the feel is good.

I didn't document my install but I can take some close up pictures for reference.
 

bd43

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I did my install today and it seems some of the pieces are now different in the set I received, specially the spacers and the length of some of the bolts. Even with this excellent guide, it was a major pita to install it.

I ended up doing a few things very differently since the bolts I had were too short to do it the same as the guide, and have used ALL of the pieces. My brake line is not squeezed like the one in the guide. I didn't have to drill the bracket for the brake pump to align properly. Everything seems to be working great after much adjustments and the feel is good.

I didn't document my install but I can take some close up pictures for reference.

If you can take some pics, I'd like to see the changes they made. :D
 

elus1ve

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Those are pics I took right after the install, so it's a bit dirty and it was indoor. When it stops raining, I will take it outside for better pics.

View attachment 48762

- If you look at the spacers between the frame and the rearset, they look much thicker than the ones you used in the guide. I would have preferred them to be thinner so that the bolt would have more threads to screw onto.

- The two bolts that holds the foot peg assembly onto the plate with the 3x8 holes are shorter. I couldn't put the rear brake cylinder holder in between peg assembly and the plate. If I did, it would only hold with a couple of threads. So I used the extra bolts to position the holder at the back of the plate and at the angle that I wanted. As you can see, the brake piston is aligned perfectly this way. (in the pic, the pedal is too low but have adjusted that since)

- Washers are also not needed in between the brake cylinder and the bracket as the bracket has been shaved on the edge to fit the brake cylinder.

View attachment 48763

Will take more pics in proper light. It will be easier to see the changes.

Thanks again for your guide, it was very useful!
 
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mxgolf

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Thanks for the write up BD43. I have been considering doing that mod to my FZ6 too. It's about the only thing I have not done yet to her. :cheer:
 

FinalImpact

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Thanks for the write up BD43. I have been considering doing that mod to my FZ6 too. It's about the only thing I have not done yet to her. :cheer:

^^
To your point; I wish the THANKS button didn't go incognito after 90 days! BD's post would have a "Thanks" from me as would many others who take the time to show how things work/can be done!

Appreciate it Daryle!
 
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